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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
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#1 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sweden
Posts: 318
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#1:
![]() Good for sideloads? #2: ![]() Ordinary stuff. #3: ![]() Tin-coated... which one? |
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#2 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: In Hell
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depends on what youre milling and what youre milling with.without those parameters, i cant give you any suggestions.
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#3 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sweden
Posts: 318
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This mill:
![]() I'm going to mill Al and Cu. |
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#4 |
CNC Beyatch
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards
Posts: 721
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The first one is a roughing endmill, it eats up material like there is no tomarrow, but the finish is crappy, The middle is a regular endmill. Leaves a nice finish.
The tin coating makes them last a little longer under normal use. But I can amagine (No offence intended) that until you get used to the machine and learn what you can and cannot do you will be wearing them out and breaking them on a regular basis. So stay with the cheap high speed steel (HSS) endmills. Also #3 is a 3 flute endmill. With only 3 cutting surfaces you have les of a chip load per cutting area, so they will not get clogges as easy as the 4 flute endmills. Very good for long cuts. You will also find that carbide endmills are very strong. And used correctly (see above statment) will last a long time. But the price reflects this. Also youa re going to need a good fly cutter. For removing large amounts of surface area and for making parts flat. Also a good vise is a MUST. And as a recomendation, I would get a vise that has holes drilled thrue the jaws so Soft jaws (bolt on /throw away aluminum jaws can be bolted to them.) They are good because you can machine steps into them for holding parts that do not sit on the bottom of the vise, such as water blocks. When you bolt the soft jaws to the vise you can machine the step so that the part will sit flat. U can always use parralles but they are expensive and you can loose them. Also you need to think about some soft of cooling method. Spray mist cooling is good for manual mills. Although if not contained somehow will make a mess on the floor. Also It would be wise to make some sort of wall that will go behind the mill, and bot sides of the mill to help contain chips. They will accumalate (SP) very quickly.
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Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808 |
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#5 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2002
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i couldnt have said it any better Fixitt!
but i will say one other thing...........when you buy your endmills, try to find them with a 45 degree helix. i havent tried anything higher than that so i dont know what the end result would be. Fixitt.....you ever use anything higher than a 45 degree helix??any better?? |
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#6 | |
Put up or Shut Up
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 6,506
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#7 |
Put up or Shut Up
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane WA
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Here are some 60 degree ones: http://www.rlschmitt.com/High%20Helix%20End%20Mills.htm
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#8 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sweden
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fly cutter? whats that? I don't understand entierly what you mean. How do them look? Is it a flutemill with a huge diameter or stuffs you use to mill wood? Give me a picture please
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#9 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: In Hell
Posts: 322
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45 degree helix end mill on left standard end mill on right |
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#10 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2002
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and heres a shot of a "cheapo" fly cutter
Last edited by LiquidRulez; 09-20-2002 at 03:58 AM. |
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#11 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sweden
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thanks for all the support.
I wounder what the Swedish word for "fly-cutter" is....I don't want to go in to a Swedish shop and ask för a fly-cutter you know ![]() |
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#12 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2002
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#13 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2002
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here it is
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#14 |
CNC Beyatch
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards
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As you can see from the above pic ... that is a fly cutter. Now picture it upside down from the pic. Mounted in the check of a mill.
The long skinny part is the cutter, it is a small peice of carbide brazed to the steel shank. It is ground into variouse shape. As it spins, you drag it along the material. Normall about .300 to .500 (1/2 in) below the parts top. It basicly WHACKS away material in single passes. Making the part thinner, and also flat (if the mill table, vise and vise jaws are all flat) Hope you can get a mental pic of what I just said.
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Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808 |
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#15 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sweden
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Now I know what it is!
My friend used it while milling my old block! that thing was huge like 50mm (2") diameter! Thank you for the memoryrefreshener ![]() |
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#16 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2002
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thanks FIXITT for clarifying that for me. i was gonna mount it in the collet but i was in a hurry and it was about 4 AM in tha morning
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#17 | |
Put up or Shut Up
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane WA
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#18 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2002
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check out this site for end mills..........click here
i get most of my stuff here and they got some great prices on high helix Al. end mills and give excellent customer service. fast shipping also. they also ship outside the U.S. they got just about everything you need in tooling. there import endmills are just as good quality as high dollar end mills at a significantly lower price to boot! With exception of there "mill monster" brand(they are very good quality solid carbide end mills.IMHO, they hold there sharpness much longer than any other brand ive tried)(and ive been through hundreds of them(theres that learning curve!) i dont even bother with the U.S.A. brands anymore because i cant tell the difference when they break! i can break 2 or 3 solid carbide chinese end mills for the price of one "Quality" USA brand ![]() i only buy mill monster USA brand when i need small diameters because of there superior strength compared to other brands made in USA. Hope this helps ya in your, soon to be, never ending search for a better and stronger end mill. you will be breaking quite a few of them too ![]() |
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#19 |
CNC Beyatch
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards
Posts: 721
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Ohh yeah, I love wholesale tool!!!!! We got one here in Tulsa, so I get to go in and buy and walk aout with my tools!
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Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808 |
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