Easy waterblock but good perfomance

tatay · 11-23-2003, 03:35 PM

i want to make a own waterblock but I have no great tools like a cnc. What type of models can I look at then? #Rotor? Whitewater?

the_chad · 11-23-2003, 10:55 PM

http://www.overclockers.com/tips1118/

http://www.overclockers.com/tips793/

http://www.overclockers.com/articles690/

these would be 2 good articles to read and see what machinery you or some friends have

good luck with it

btw the 2nd link, you really only need a drill press and alot of time

bigben2k · 11-23-2003, 11:31 PM

#rotor, definitely.

What tools do you have?

tatay · 11-24-2003, 01:22 AM

A dremel copy :S

tatay · 11-24-2003, 01:23 AM

How is the perfomance against White Water? Or what other cwb can it be compared with? maze3-4? swiftech?

#Rotor · 11-24-2003, 10:54 AM

nobody Knows

but do remember that the pin-grid design (the way I do it) has been around for almost 4 years now....
New innovations and concepts hardly ever need to be compared against dinosaurs, or Megalodons for that matter

Being compared with Cathar's WW( and a couple of other T-REXes too).... nothing but the greatest honor....

Being compared with anything commercial.... an insult, in the worst degree....

some awesome pictorials and ideas to be found in these parts.

tatay · 11-24-2003, 11:31 AM

Ok, If I want to make a #rotor block then how big should the plate be?
I want to make a cpu-block, chipset and gpu block. on the cpu block I dont now what i'll have maybe amd maybe intel.
What program can I use to design waterblocks?

jaydee · 11-24-2003, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by tatay
Ok, If I want to make a #rotor block then how big should the plate be?
I want to make a cpu-block, chipset and gpu block. on the cpu block I dont now what i'll have maybe amd maybe intel.
What program can I use to design waterblocks?

You don't "need" a program to design blocks. A pencil, paper, and ruler will work. A compass is good to for doing round and curved objects.

I use ACAD2000 and SolidWorks 2003. About $4,000 worth of software.

If you have access to a CNC mill then you will want some kind of CAD program to creat a .dxf that can be made into G-Code. If you don't then just use paper and pencil. If you have a printer I think Rotor has printable designs. Just attach the paper to the top fo the block, punch the center of each circle and drill them out.

you can also try www.webattack.com and try and find a free CAD program. Learnig it will be the biggest challenge. Been using ACAD for years and still hardly know how to use it.

tatay · 11-24-2003, 03:23 PM

Like the ww

tatay · 11-24-2003, 03:24 PM

Like ww but with #rotors or how do I say it with pigs in the center.

tatay · 11-24-2003, 03:25 PM

#rotor pigs in the centre and mini #rotor pigs on the sides and over and under channels to the outlet

tatay · 11-24-2003, 03:26 PM

the #rotor style with one inlet and one outlet

tatay · 11-24-2003, 03:29 PM

Sorry for the bad picture quality I took the pictures with my SE t610

Since87 · 11-24-2003, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by tatay
How is the perfomance against White Water? Or what other cwb can it be compared with? maze3-4? swiftech?

Here's BillA's test data on Owen Steven's #Rotor-like block.

http://www.overclockers.com/articles690/

And here's BillA's data on the original White Water.

http://www.overclockers.com/articles692/

tatay · 11-24-2003, 05:31 PM

I dont understand those articles I want to know the temp on both blocks

jaydee · 11-24-2003, 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by tatay
I dont understand those articles I want to know the temp on both blocks

Temp is irrelevant. The lower the C/W value the better. The White Water and owens blocks are pretty close. Maybe 1-2C difference in favor of the White Water depending on flow rate.

tatay · 11-25-2003, 07:07 AM

ok when I looked at his block i saw that he had only one inlet and one outlet, aint it better with one inlet and two outlets? and why did he drill on the backside of the toppart of the block?

Zogthetroll · 11-25-2003, 09:18 AM

I asked those same questions myself a while back here. As it was explained to me, the rotor design will work better with only two openings instead of three. with a center inlet you're hurting the effectiveness of the pins over the cpu by breaking up the flow through that area. (i'm not sure quite why, anyone?) As for the copper drilled top plate, there are two reasons for that. The first, and less important reason is that with a tec block (which a rotor block could be easily used for) there will be some heat that will be transferred to the top section and the pins on the top will help dissipate that to the coolant, but that effect would be minor. The second, key reason is for the added flow through the block gained by doubling the area for the coolant to flow through. which if you wanted to simplify things and use either a lexan or flat copper top, you could either make a slightly thicker base plate or just say screw it and accept the flow restriction to your system.

#Rotor · 11-25-2003, 10:24 AM

the pin-grid, and in particular the one with pins shaped like what we have here, wants to have flow going through them. Having the inlet right on top of the core, creates what I call (for lack of any other explanation) "the eye of the Storm" effect.

some of us here have tried the 3 inlet derivative already, they might want to give some feedback..

I can imagine the gains/losses to be so minute, bordering on frustration when atempting to quantify.

The primary reason I use copper tops, and with grids in the top plate too, is to aid in obtaining the ideal VDFC configuration. it is not really there to help with cooling directly, although it might very well be the case, when big-ass TECs are being brutalized and tortured

tatay · 11-25-2003, 10:46 AM

I dont know if I will use polytop or copper, whats the best and easiest?

#Rotor · 11-25-2003, 11:16 AM

I prefer Copper, mainly because it's more reliable, and I'm not particularly bothered with all them LED's and Laser-light shows...
I'm sure Polymers are much easier and cheaper to work with and that I can find no fault with.

tatay · 11-25-2003, 11:40 AM

Hmm ok. It will be poly because its cheaper. What sort of drill will I have to use to get the right size of the pins?

V12|V12 · 11-28-2003, 06:42 AM

You could be SUPER DYI and use a hand drill... but getting a nice cheapo drill press ($40) should do fine and make sure you get some sort of vice to hold the copper or else you might lose a finger or 2! As for bits... Cobalt-Steel or Titanium-Nitride coated harden steel bits work MUCH better than non-coated... if you've got some resources or lots o cash, look for some Titanium-Carbo-Nitride. Provides the least amount of friction between metal mediums for ultra smooth cutting/material removal... oh and don't forget some cutting oil! I use Veggie oil/WD-40 if I'm oil doing heavy drilling.

Another way to save time and money with DIY water block building... go Hoot's route http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showth...threadid=80618 and find you a nice copper pinned Socket-A/370 heatsink and convert it to a water block! WHich is what I am planning on doing, soon as I find a cheap copper PIN heatsink... The AKASA AK-350 is probably ideal, but they are only sold by UK vendors, hence a damn near $10 price conversion on a $10 block!

Good luck!

tatay · 11-28-2003, 03:41 PM

But I live in sweden :S

11-23-2003, 03:35 PM	#1
tatay Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Sweden, Örebro Posts: 14	Easy waterblock but good perfomance i want to make a own waterblock but I have no great tools like a cnc. What type of models can I look at then? #Rotor? Whitewater?

11-23-2003, 10:55 PM	#2
the_chad Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: AUS-NSW Posts: 16	http://www.overclockers.com/tips1118/ http://www.overclockers.com/tips793/ http://www.overclockers.com/articles690/ these would be 2 good articles to read and see what machinery you or some friends have good luck with it btw the 2nd link, you really only need a drill press and alot of time __________________ My Name Isn't Bob Last edited by the_chad; 11-23-2003 at 11:13 PM.

11-23-2003, 11:31 PM	#3
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	#rotor, definitely. What tools do you have? __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

11-24-2003, 10:54 AM	#6
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	nobody Knows but do remember that the pin-grid design (the way I do it) has been around for almost 4 years now.... New innovations and concepts hardly ever need to be compared against dinosaurs, or Megalodons for that matter Being compared with Cathar's WW( and a couple of other T-REXes too).... nothing but the greatest honor.... Being compared with anything commercial.... an insult, in the worst degree.... some awesome pictorials and ideas to be found in these parts. __________________ There is no Spoon.... Last edited by #Rotor; 11-24-2003 at 11:25 AM.

11-25-2003, 10:24 AM	#19
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	the pin-grid, and in particular the one with pins shaped like what we have here, wants to have flow going through them. Having the inlet right on top of the core, creates what I call (for lack of any other explanation) "the eye of the Storm" effect. some of us here have tried the 3 inlet derivative already, they might want to give some feedback.. I can imagine the gains/losses to be so minute, bordering on frustration when atempting to quantify. The primary reason I use copper tops, and with grids in the top plate too, is to aid in obtaining the ideal VDFC configuration. it is not really there to help with cooling directly, although it might very well be the case, when big-ass TECs are being brutalized and tortured __________________ There is no Spoon....

11-24-2003, 01:22 AM	#4
tatay Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Sweden, Örebro Posts: 14	A dremel copy :S

11-24-2003, 01:23 AM	#5
tatay Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Sweden, Örebro Posts: 14	How is the perfomance against White Water? Or what other cwb can it be compared with? maze3-4? swiftech?

11-24-2003, 11:31 AM	#7
tatay Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Sweden, Örebro Posts: 14	Ok, If I want to make a #rotor block then how big should the plate be? I want to make a cpu-block, chipset and gpu block. on the cpu block I dont now what i'll have maybe amd maybe intel. What program can I use to design waterblocks?

11-24-2003, 03:29 PM	#13
tatay Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Sweden, Örebro Posts: 14	Sorry for the bad picture quality I took the pictures with my SE t610

11-24-2003, 05:31 PM	#15
tatay Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Sweden, Örebro Posts: 14	I dont understand those articles I want to know the temp on both blocks

11-25-2003, 07:07 AM	#17
tatay Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Sweden, Örebro Posts: 14	ok when I looked at his block i saw that he had only one inlet and one outlet, aint it better with one inlet and two outlets? and why did he drill on the backside of the toppart of the block?

11-25-2003, 09:18 AM	#18
Zogthetroll Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Ohio, U.S.A. Posts: 177	I asked those same questions myself a while back here. As it was explained to me, the rotor design will work better with only two openings instead of three. with a center inlet you're hurting the effectiveness of the pins over the cpu by breaking up the flow through that area. (i'm not sure quite why, anyone?) As for the copper drilled top plate, there are two reasons for that. The first, and less important reason is that with a tec block (which a rotor block could be easily used for) there will be some heat that will be transferred to the top section and the pins on the top will help dissipate that to the coolant, but that effect would be minor. The second, key reason is for the added flow through the block gained by doubling the area for the coolant to flow through. which if you wanted to simplify things and use either a lexan or flat copper top, you could either make a slightly thicker base plate or just say screw it and accept the flow restriction to your system.

11-25-2003, 10:46 AM	#20
tatay Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Sweden, Örebro Posts: 14	I dont know if I will use polytop or copper, whats the best and easiest?

11-25-2003, 11:16 AM	#21
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	I prefer Copper, mainly because it's more reliable, and I'm not particularly bothered with all them LED's and Laser-light shows... I'm sure Polymers are much easier and cheaper to work with and that I can find no fault with. __________________ There is no Spoon....

11-25-2003, 11:40 AM	#22
tatay Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Sweden, Örebro Posts: 14	Hmm ok. It will be poly because its cheaper. What sort of drill will I have to use to get the right size of the pins?

11-28-2003, 06:42 AM	#23
V12\|V12 Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Ohio-State! <--Money Hussle! SUCKS Posts: 292	You could be SUPER DYI and use a hand drill... but getting a nice cheapo drill press ($40) should do fine and make sure you get some sort of vice to hold the copper or else you might lose a finger or 2! As for bits... Cobalt-Steel or Titanium-Nitride coated harden steel bits work MUCH better than non-coated... if you've got some resources or lots o cash, look for some Titanium-Carbo-Nitride. Provides the least amount of friction between metal mediums for ultra smooth cutting/material removal... oh and don't forget some cutting oil! I use Veggie oil/WD-40 if I'm oil doing heavy drilling. Another way to save time and money with DIY water block building... go Hoot's route http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showth...threadid=80618 and find you a nice copper pinned Socket-A/370 heatsink and convert it to a water block! WHich is what I am planning on doing, soon as I find a cheap copper PIN heatsink... The AKASA AK-350 is probably ideal, but they are only sold by UK vendors, hence a damn near $10 price conversion on a $10 block! Good luck! __________________ XP 1600+ AGOIA-Y (GreenLabel, UNLOCKED!@/ NF7-S 2.0/ PC 2700 DDR 10.5*172FSB(1806/ 1991 high), Vcore 1.792...@84.95Watts --86' Chevette Heater Core --1/2" Vinyl tubes --Via1300-Stealth Mod(QUIET!) ---Home made copper-tube block ---PVC small internal res

11-28-2003, 03:41 PM	#24
tatay Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Sweden, Örebro Posts: 14	But I live in sweden :S

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