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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
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#1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Singapore
Posts: 66
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Ok, this is my first pure self-made block. Have had a plethora of blocks now including both the WW & Cascade.
My first foray into wb modifications was with a simple budget maze style block some info of which can be found here. This is what I had in mind based of a pelton wheel design and something mentioned by eletric_flip inside the "Introducing the Cascade wb" thread on OCAU here. It appeared to be a simple and possibly effective concept to try. Thats what the conceptual design was. This is what I managed to come up with Three plates, each of 1.5mm thickness. I'll tell you this, its hard to be exactly accurate when you have so little thickness to play with. We're talking abt 0.4mm between the base of the cup and the other end. Measured it using some vernier calipers. Each plate is then siliconed and epoxied to one another and I'm going to let that cure overnight. On completion it ought to look like this. Barbs are 1/2" plastic. Material is 2024 Aluminum, aircraft grade aluminum sheeting. I would have prefered to use copper, but it aint the cheapest thing around here in Sydney as seen in this thread. And since I have got free access to the aluminum, I'll be using that for the time being. I have yet to mount it, letting the epoxy cure overnight properly. Will post results once I do. I do have a chipset block in the works and will post once completed. Last edited by Sin22; 09-16-2003 at 02:11 AM. |
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#2 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Blackburn / Dundee
Posts: 451
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Erm... no picies. *shrugs*
~ Boli
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1800+ @ 2247 (214x10.5) - STABLE, 512MB PC3700 TwinX Cosair RAM, NF7-S v2.0, GeForce3 Ti200 Parallel BIM, 120.1 Thermochill, Eheim 1048, Maze 3, Maze4 GPU, "Z" chipset, 1/2" tubing, PC-70: 5x120mm & 9x80mm fans. Internet Server & second machine (folding 24/7): 512MB DDR RAM, XP2000+ |
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#3 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Singapore
Posts: 66
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Seems to be an issue with ImageStation atm. Give me a while to transfer my images to a different host.
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#4 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Blackburn / Dundee
Posts: 451
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Simple.... but how effective?
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1800+ @ 2247 (214x10.5) - STABLE, 512MB PC3700 TwinX Cosair RAM, NF7-S v2.0, GeForce3 Ti200 Parallel BIM, 120.1 Thermochill, Eheim 1048, Maze 3, Maze4 GPU, "Z" chipset, 1/2" tubing, PC-70: 5x120mm & 9x80mm fans. Internet Server & second machine (folding 24/7): 512MB DDR RAM, XP2000+ |
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#5 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Houston, TX, USA
Posts: 221
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IIRC, the "pelton" style idea is flawed for waterblocks, as it greatly reduces (eliminates) impingment. Incoming water hits the point in the middle and flows away with no impingment at all (basically). Ergo, you have a very laminar flow.
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#6 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Sweden
Posts: 66
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What if you make small crates or something to increase contact and turbulence? Or sand blast it? (or whatever its called)
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#7 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Maryland
Posts: 33
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Don't completely understand the physics.....but I believe it's called bead blasting (was mentioned in cascade thread).
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#8 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: sweden
Posts: 19
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cheapest block I've seen
![]() It'll probably work enough though, if max performance is not an issue.
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"to fully understand something and to misunderstand the same thing, dont always exclude one another - kafka" |
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#9 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: in my chair
Posts: 574
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Bead blasting doesn't do squat. The variations on the copper are to small to raise the copper into the flow.
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-winewood- |
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#10 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Maryland
Posts: 33
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Mmmmmmm......maybe simply using some thermal epoxy to stick some aluminum cylinders in the flow region could at least give you some turbulence.
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#11 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND
Posts: 504
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Hey, that looks like quite a good design in concept. It looks like your not gonna have much flow going through that though. You should be using about a 3/16" thick base plate, and 3/16-1/4" channel area for low restriction, and then a 3/16"-1/4" top for screwing the barbs in. I would highly suggest you invest in a bar of copper, Youll love being able to seal it up nicely. I would just say get a 14" or so bar of 3/16" thick copper and cutting up all your peices for it.
-edit- Also, invest in a center punch ![]() Thats my input. Jon |
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#12 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Singapore
Posts: 66
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Sorry for taking so long to reply, been busy.
Basically Althornin is correct, u will be getting a fair amount of laminar flow. The boundary layer isnt churned up enough. Some quick and dirty CFD analysis shows that. ![]() The exact internal dimensions were used for the areas actually in contact with the water ![]() A close up of the cups area You can see that around the cups, you arnt getting much flow, the water has pretty much formed a thick boundary layer. Anyhow, it was something to try. As to copper, I'll be moving back to Singapore in a month, and its a lot cheaper to purchase there than it is here in Sydney, so I'll be using it over there. And since I have free access to alu sheets here in the Aero workshop, I use that instead. I did use a centrepunch, however, on my first drill, I set the drill press to too fast a speed and it went a bit awry even with a G-clamp holdin the piece down. |
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#13 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: May 2002
Location: CA
Posts: 78
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what CFD proggy did you use? just curious.
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StrongShockModz |
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#14 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Singapore
Posts: 66
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Fluent 6
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