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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
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#1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Seattle
Posts: 4
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I am a noob to water-cooling. I have always been interested in converting my computer (AMD 950) to liquid cooling. Recently I have obtained a radiator and a pump (surplus / very cheep) but I do not have any water blocks yet and I do not have much money. This water block design that I found seems to be just what I need if it will work. It seems simple to make and the parts should be easy to obtain.
If this design is ok I will use it for my video card also. GeForce Ti-4200 (the fan is starting to make noise so I need to do something and now would be a good time to start shifting to water cooling) I will be making my own reservoir also. I thought that if I increased the connection size from 3/8ths inch to 1/2 inch and cut groves into the block above the processor I could increase water flow and efficiency? Owen's Copper Cap Water block http://www.overclockers.com/articles678/ Has anyone used this water block? Any Ideas? Thank you for any comments and assistance |
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#2 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: W. Sussex, UK
Posts: 329
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The base could do with a lot more surface area. Use a thicker peice of copper and cut channels with it with a drememl or something. Easy to do ...
For a 950 it should be fine as it says. They put out less than 50 watts. C/w assuing its accurate, is ~0.25. 0.25*50 = 12.5c above amient. |
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#3 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Seattle
Posts: 4
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Thanks for letting me know.
If I overclock the 950 it may get up to 90 watts but I am hoping it will be ok if I increase the tube to 1/2 inch and cut some small channels in the base to increase the serface area. My goal is to eventually get a 1.4Mhz AMD (My A7V board tops out with that chip) and then see how high I can overclock it. This block is not as nice as the outstanding artwork that I have seen in the sticky section but I have a very limited budget and just a few tools. With this design I should be able to build a block for under $5 Thanks again |
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#4 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Alberta
Posts: 631
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Have you considered having a 1/2" tube overtop a 1/4" tube so that you can use 1/2" tubing and get some nice impingement out of it?
Also, you must think about the mounting system which will be the problem. |
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#5 | |||
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: BC, Canada
Posts: 313
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Wow. That's one brutal basic block. <Applause>
Quote:
A stretched spring shape (e.g. #14 solid wire wrapped around a dowel, then removed) inside the inlet pipe will spin the water, further improving "impingement". The principle that spinning things trace a truer path is employed by sharpshooters, firefighters, and inadvertently by men while standing in front of the toilet. The elongated spring (AKA rifling, IIRC) should be really drawn out. Too many turns, and it's just friction. If you have a suitably sized hole saw, I think it worthwhile to cut a shallow seat for the top cap. The solder joint will be much stronger, and cleaner too. Quote:
Quote:
Last edited by Kobuchi; 07-31-2004 at 01:11 AM. |
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#6 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 141
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the copper cap kann be a very good block if you make some changes to the basic design.
Try a dremel or something like that an make the base a little rough. The base shouldn't be much thicker then 2mm. you can solder a smaller copper cap on the middle inlet an place some jet holes in it and direct it with only 2-3mm distance onto the baseplate. That can make a perfect jetimpigment cooler which can rock some commercial blocks out there. |
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#7 |
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
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You might want to take a look at Owen's other block. It's a pin-fin design, similar to Aquajoe's.
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