Project X has begun.

[jaydee]

Sorry for the piss poor pic but it is the best I can do for now. Better pics with machining process coming soon.

[G33k]

Looks like quite a high water-copper ratio in that block... interesting Would you use two or three barbs?

[Pritorian]

with that desogn i would think that three barbs is the only way to go.

[|kbn|]

For my cpu block Im going to use two layers of plastic for the top. The middle one can join the two outlets for a 1 in 1 out top layer.

[Pritorian]

Originally Posted by |kbn|

For my cpu block Im going to use two layers of plastic for the top. The middle one can join the two outlets for a 1 in 1 out top layer.

Wouldn't that just make the block more restrictive?

[|kbn|]

it would be equal to using a Y joiner. The restrictiveness depends compleatly on how wide the joining channels are. Using thicker plastic you can have bigger channels and less restriction. I dont think it will make it noticably more restrictive if you can keep the cross sectional surface area bigger than the cross sectional surface of ID of the tubing you are using.

[UberBlue]

Quit ripping off the RBX and do something original!

j/k

Doing a diamond pin block?

[jaydee]

Originally Posted by G33k

Looks like quite a high water-copper ratio in that block... interesting Would you use two or three barbs?

3 barbs. Middle inlet with a jet, 2 outlets.

UberBlue Quit ripping off the RBX and do something original!

j/k

Doing a diamond pin block?

The pins are not diamond really. They look as they do in the pic as that is the final pattern. Try to get some betters pics up soon. This is a cross between my Lemon Block, my Lumby Channel block, my #Rotor style Pin block, the white water, the RBX, the Swiftec 5000A and a few new things I havn't seen yet. This is ment to be my White Water contender. I also have a second version of the top that I don't have the tooling for. More on that later though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by |kbn|
For my cpu block Im going to use two layers of plastic for the top. The middle one can join the two outlets for a 1 in 1 out top layer.

Wouldn't that just make the block more restrictive?

Yes it would. That will add an extra 90 inside the block. A Y adapter would not. Still would rather it be done inside the block though. Easier to route hose and performance loss should be unoticable.

[jaydee]

A few more shots. More to come when I get home (Sunday) as they are on my camcorder. Need my TV tuner card to process them which is not here.

[|kbn|]

Very interesting design. You have proved my comment wrong in the rip off thread about considering limits of manufacturing.

How well do you think it will perform?

Originally Posted by |kbn|
For my cpu block Im going to use two layers of plastic for the top. The middle one can join the two outlets for a 1 in 1 out top layer.

Originally Posted by Pritorian
Wouldn't that just make the block more restrictive?

Originally Posted by jaydee116
Yes it would. That will add an extra 90 inside the block. A Y adapter would not. Still would rather it be done inside the block though. Easier to route hose and performance loss should be unoticable.

A plastic 90 has iirc about 1/3 more restiction than a copper 90 because of the reduction in size and also the bend on the copper is smooth while the plastic is a sharp 90. It should be possible if you can give it enough space, to make it have very little restriction.

[JFettig]

oh wow, I couldnt see it from the scanned picture, it almost hirt my eyes, but now that I see those pictures its looking real good! I have thought of similar stuff but I still dont like the idea of using a 3 barbed block. Im trying to stay away from that as much as possible.

that looks like itll be your best performing block so far


Jon

[jaydee]

Originally Posted by |kbn|

Very interesting design. You have proved my comment wrong in the rip off thread about considering limits of manufacturing.

How well do you think it will perform?

I think it will do very well. It will go to pH when he gets done with my other blocks but i will test it myself untill then.

A plastic 90 has iirc about 1/3 more restiction than a copper 90 because of the reduction in size and also the bend on the copper is smooth while the plastic is a sharp 90. It should be possible if you can give it enough space, to make it have very little restriction.

I need to see your design before commenting further. What I had in mind in a few designs was to bring the water up the outlet, 90 over in the direction of the other outlet and then 90 again up and out. Or taking the 2 outlets 90 them over towards each other and then 90 them out the block after they merge. I sill havn't come up with anything I can use yet. Still working on it.

JFettig

oh wow, I couldnt see it from the scanned picture, it almost hirt my eyes, but now that I see those pictures its looking real good! I have thought of similar stuff but I still dont like the idea of using a 3 barbed block. Im trying to stay away from that as much as possible.

that looks like itll be your best performing block so far


Jon

Thanks.

I agree about the 3 barbs. In fact I plan on caping one of the outlets to see what will happen on this. If you noticed I left a 1/8" channel around the middle section (idea from my Lemon Block) to aid flow rate. It might be enough to route all the water to one outlet.

I agree, I think it will be my best CPU only block. I made it to be in the top of the DIY blocks here at ProCooling and to throw a challenge out to people to top it. DIY competition is one way to promote new ideas as business competiton obviously is failing miserable lately to bring out new stuff.

I was happy with my little CNC mill. It handled those 1/16" cuts with out a problem. It was slow though. Kept wishing I had that Haas $30G mini mill with tool changer! Fun non the less.

[japan power]

very nice block!!!

[|kbn|]

This was my idea. Barbs are green. This would be easyest using a plastic top too. blue = channels in the first layer fo plastic. the middle bit could either be glued to the top plastic layer or instead just dont mill all the way through so it should hold it in place (sacrificing a mm or 2 of channel height. Making the outlet bigger as in pic would balance the flow restiction from each side, I think?..

edit - inverted pic, easer to understand.

[Blackeagle]

Good to see you at work agian designing JD! And your latest is look'n good.

[jaydee]

Originally Posted by Blackeagle

Good to see you at work agian designing JD! And your latest is look'n good.

You know what sucks. It took me all of 5 minutes to come up with that design and another 10 minutes in CAD making the tool path .dxf's for milling it. Can't really say I thought about it for a long time. What sucks more is this 15 minute from idea to drawing took over 4 hours to mill. My mill did a better job than I thought it would but damn...... I did in the end wear out a drive screw nut and got tons of slop in the Y axis. You can see it in the jet. The bottom is were the endmill plunges and the Y axis was wobbling back and forth. Got to order some replacment parts toget it back to .003" accuracy it had before. I am pondering getting a better mill. Lot of thinking to do first as I need it to pay for itself.

Anyway I got more pics on how I made this block but I am not going to show them for now. Not that it should be all that hard to figure it out anyway.

[Stang_Man]

nice block JD. would you mind posting your CADD drawing?

[jaydee]

Originally Posted by Stang_Man

nice block JD. would you mind posting your CADD drawing?

Not at this point (same reason I am not going to show the milling process pics). Don't have it handy anyway. It is on my mills computer 120miles (one way) away. Also it is just a tool path drawing. No 3D stuff or importability into any normal mills software.

[jaydee]

I have been testing this block throughly this week against the Maze 4. So far Project X is ahead by 1C at a much lower flow rate being it is nearly 3 times as restrictive. So that is encouraging. I am going to redesign the Jet to be a little less restrictive.

[jaydee]

Milling process.


Milling the outer channel.


-------------
-------------
Drilled the cups.


-------------
-------------
Milled the inner channels connecting the cups.


-------------
-------------
Milling O-ring Groove.

-------------
-------------
Milling the jet/inlet, outlets ,screw holes and mounting holes in the top peice.


-------------
-------------
Drilling the screw holes and mounting holes.

[MMZ_TimeLord]

Gotta love the precision of CNC...

[iakovl]

True MMZ so True

[jaydee]

Last week I bored out the jet to about double the size it is now. It turned out to be 2C warmer. Guess the jet certainly helps.....

[trit187]

using the same pump, or same flow rate?
I'd think opening up the jet would reduce the restrictiveness a bit.

[Varsis]

Nah it wont, that jet is keeping water from stagnating around the core of the block
, when he opend up thebore he started to trap some of the water from escaping from the middle of the block, causing it to stagnate and hinder the flow right over the core.
Jay, I think the first slot plate youmade 1 fin in width was perfect.
what kind of temps you getting from the block?
maybe a dual outlet plate for this block might help the temps lest restrictive ness on the out going,
maybe with a dual out setup. that wider boar might do more good.
as it stands, i dont think there is enough free movement on the outgoing water to keep the center from stagnating with a wider boar.

man i love talking about shit i barely know anything about! dont you?