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FS/FT Forum Are you looking to make some money? Get rid of some gear? This is the place to sell and buy it all! |
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#1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Plainville, CT
Posts: 79
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here we go! i made a bunch of these caps for people on the forums and it's something nice to go along with your T-line watercooling loop.
they will fit all 1/2" ID tubing, be it 5/8" OD or 3/4" OD. are made of aluminum and are ANODIZED to prevent corrosion, here are a few pictures: ![]() ![]() Each cap is $10 shipped PM me or email me. my paypal is 99stangman@sbcglobal.net, i have heatware under "Stang_Man" Last edited by Stang_Man; 08-12-2004 at 12:01 AM. |
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#2 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Plainville, CT
Posts: 79
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caps are anodized! any risk of corrosion is now gone
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#3 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: orlando FL
Posts: 147
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Looks like a real P.I.T.A. to get out of the tube for refilling. Just a thought.
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#4 | |
Put up or Shut Up
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 6,506
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Stang Man: Anyway to show it scale? Maybe hold one as your were going to remove it? I would buy one if I didn't have access to equipment ot make my own. ![]() |
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#5 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Plainville, CT
Posts: 79
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hehe, well. the tubing showed with the caps are 3/4" OD. the top of the cap extends out .5" if you ahve trouble removing the cap, (it's meant to be semi-permanent plug) warm up the hose with a hair dryer or something similar. this always worked well for me. if you still have trouble get a jar opener rubber thing, LOL. i've only had one instance where i had to go that far though, haha |
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#6 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: orlando FL
Posts: 147
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#7 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Plainville, CT
Posts: 79
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i'm pretty sure if you sealed your loop 100% you wouldn't have that problem. the cap helps seal your system, so you wouldn't have to add water as often. |
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#8 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Cambridge Uni
Posts: 176
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You might have to keep adding the first few weeks as I believe water will soak into the tubing. It wont leak out, but I'm sure the tubing is slightly porous, the the levels go down.
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#9 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Plainville, CT
Posts: 79
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bump please.
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#10 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Dunedin NZ
Posts: 735
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"i'm pretty sure if you sealed your loop 100% you wouldn't have that problem. the cap helps seal your system, so you wouldn't have to add water as often."
Nah, all tubing is porous to a point, and will allow the liquid to leech into the air. Clearflex or similar (thicker walled tubing) will do it much less than cheap vinyl tubing; but then, i doubt anyone that would buy this would be using cheap vinyl tubing. Wouldnt be too hard to knurl the end, would it? I know I'd probably take to it with pliers (only thing i have handy, most of the time) which would ruin it. |
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#11 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Plainville, CT
Posts: 79
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#12 | |
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
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#13 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Dunedin NZ
Posts: 735
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I use a brass threaded bung, mines highly polished however - ![]() Stolen from rittenhouse.ca If you heat it over the tubing, the tubing shrinks to fit it, and makes its own thread. Grab a spanner, and I can undo it just like it was a barb in a poly wb top. ![]() |
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#14 |
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
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I also prefer a threaded cap, but I use PVC parts.
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#15 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Plainville, CT
Posts: 79
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bump please...
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