FAO: Cathar and/or watercooling pro's.

Bundles · 08-18-2005, 03:20 AM

Just a quick question, but important nonetheless imo.

I've just bought a second hand Cascade, which has never actualy been used, the trouble being that the base is a little bit corroded/oxidised with it sitting doing nothing. What would be the best way to revive it? I've lapped many a waterblock, but never one with a base that's already done to suck fine tolerances, so i think i will give lapping a miss, plus the base is thin enough already lol.

Question being, what method would you recommend as the best way to clean up the base without degrading it or detracting from it's performance at all?

Thanks in advance.

Graeme.

Long Haired Git · 08-18-2005, 05:00 AM

Cathar will no doubt be here soon to comment, but in the meantime, I think you are overestimating the amount of material you will be removing when you lap. If you're confident it is "flat" and there's no deep scratches, then just skip to the last lap stage, which I seem to recall Cathar recommending 600 grit paper and kerosene.

BTW: I think you mean "...to such fine...", and not "....to suck fine..."

JFettig · 08-18-2005, 07:50 AM

Leave it.
your not likely able to lap it as flat as cathar has already. A little oxidation doesnt really make a difference, if you want to get rid of it, use brasso or ketchup and a soft cloth.

Jon

jman1310 · 08-18-2005, 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JFettig

Leave it.
your not likely able to lap it as flat as cathar has already. A little oxidation doesnt really make a difference, if you want to get rid of it, use brasso or ketchup and a soft cloth.

Jon

and remove the brasso with xylene

Cathar · 08-18-2005, 09:12 AM

A quick lap on wet 1000-grit paper is unlikely to cause any harm if you're really bothered by it.

A good soak in ketchup is apparantly another approach, but if you're doing that, then you may as well use Brasso, followed up by rubbing down with isopropanol to remove any Brasso residue.

Bundles · 08-18-2005, 10:22 AM

Cheers folks, will just go with the brasso idea, thanks a lot

mcmad · 08-18-2005, 10:30 AM

lemon juice brings copper up nicely..

Bloody_Sorcerer · 08-18-2005, 11:33 AM

most acidic substances will remove copper oxide: ketchup, vinegar, lemon juice, hydrochloric acid, etc.
dunno if brasso is acidic, so i didn't list it :-P

Moto7451 · 08-18-2005, 10:05 PM

Another good option I recently discovered is a product called Never Dull. We use it to remove light oxidation from $220-$2000 Swords that we sell in the store I work at. Its basically cotton balls soaked in Kerosene. Works great. You just rub the stuff on the oxidation & it usually comes off. It also gives leather a great color which is nice for some of the knives since some have compressed leather handles & their sheaths & cases are often times leather.

Brasso is a polish to my knowledge. I didn't know it removes oxidation also. I would figure it has wither Kerosene or an Acid.

Cathar · 08-18-2005, 10:08 PM

Brasso is mostly an ammonia/kero solution with a suspended buffing compound.

ljohn787 · 08-19-2005, 08:01 AM

Yeah, I definitely agree with Cathar on the lapping with kerosene... that's just from my own machine shop experience, but that's the great thing about watercooling. It's just the collection of various trades boiled down into one little community (maybe boiled isn't the right word here).

Bundles · 08-20-2005, 02:19 PM

Yup, added to there always being something to learn, things to try and configurations to test, it's by far the best and most enjoyable method of PC cooling imo.

Bundles · 08-25-2005, 12:32 PM

Erm, any tips for cleaning the jets while we're at it? they're minging.

mcmad · 08-25-2005, 01:02 PM

blimey, what you got in that loop..

soft toothbrush works best for me, I used a handsoap when i cleaned mine..

Bundles · 08-25-2005, 01:17 PM

LOL!

Not used this block yet, just got it yesterday. toothbrush was the plan, but i had no idea how strong the jets were, so thought it better safe than sorry and asked on here

mcmad · 08-25-2005, 01:19 PM

be gentle with it, leave it to soak for a while first etc & it will clean up nicely..

Bundles · 08-25-2005, 02:49 PM

Done!

Mighty impressed with it already, and heaven't even used it in anger, lol.

Any opinions on the exit flow?

mwolfman · 09-02-2005, 03:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bundles

Just a quick question, but important nonetheless imo.

I've just bought a second hand Cascade, which has never actualy been used, the trouble being that the base is a little bit corroded/oxidised with it sitting doing nothing. What would be the best way to revive it? I've lapped many a waterblock, but never one with a base that's already done to suck fine tolerances, so i think i will give lapping a miss, plus the base is thin enough already lol.

Question being, what method would you recommend as the best way to clean up the base without degrading it or detracting from it's performance at all?

Thanks in advance.

Graeme.

I clean my blocks with a bath in saltwater together with aluminium fragments (folie). no scratches what so ever, just leave it in for 1-3 hours and then pure some pure water on it. Before mounting use some Aceton on a pice of cotton, as always.

08-18-2005, 03:20 AM	#1
Bundles Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Scotland Posts: 32	FAO: Cathar and/or watercooling pro's. Just a quick question, but important nonetheless imo. I've just bought a second hand Cascade, which has never actualy been used, the trouble being that the base is a little bit corroded/oxidised with it sitting doing nothing. What would be the best way to revive it? I've lapped many a waterblock, but never one with a base that's already done to suck fine tolerances, so i think i will give lapping a miss, plus the base is thin enough already lol. Question being, what method would you recommend as the best way to clean up the base without degrading it or detracting from it's performance at all? Thanks in advance. Graeme. __________________ "Okay, okay! I take it back. Unf*ck you!!!"

08-18-2005, 05:00 AM	#2
Long Haired Git Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Sydney, Oz Posts: 336	Cathar will no doubt be here soon to comment, but in the meantime, I think you are overestimating the amount of material you will be removing when you lap. If you're confident it is "flat" and there's no deep scratches, then just skip to the last lap stage, which I seem to recall Cathar recommending 600 grit paper and kerosene. BTW: I think you mean "...to such fine...", and not "....to suck fine..." __________________ Long Haired Git "Securing an environment of Windows platforms from abuse - external or internal - is akin to trying to install sprinklers in a fireworks factory where smoking on the job is permitted." (Prof. Gene Spafford) My Rig, in all its glory, can be seen best here AMD XP1600 @ 1530 Mhz \| Soyo Dragon + \| 256 Mb PC2700 DDRAM \| 2 x 40 Gb 7200rpm in Raid-0 \| Maze 2, eheim 1250, dual heater cores! \| Full specifications (PCDB)

08-18-2005, 10:22 AM	#6
Bundles Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Scotland Posts: 32	Cheers folks, will just go with the brasso idea, thanks a lot __________________ "Okay, okay! I take it back. Unf*ck you!!!"

08-18-2005, 10:05 PM	#9
Moto7451 Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: LA, CA Posts: 53	Another good option I recently discovered is a product called Never Dull. We use it to remove light oxidation from $220-$2000 Swords that we sell in the store I work at. Its basically cotton balls soaked in Kerosene. Works great. You just rub the stuff on the oxidation & it usually comes off. It also gives leather a great color which is nice for some of the knives since some have compressed leather handles & their sheaths & cases are often times leather. Brasso is a polish to my knowledge. I didn't know it removes oxidation also. I would figure it has wither Kerosene or an Acid. __________________ Athlon 64 3200+ Rev F @ 2.4Ghz (and climbing) @ 1.53v, DFI Infinity UltraII-M2, 512MB Apple Micron D9 DDR2 @ 400MHz (DDR2 800) 5-5-5-12 @ 2v, 128MB Radeon X800 @ 460/900, Dual 120GB HDs in RAID 0 Loop 1: D5 Pump • Bonneville w/ AC Heater Core • Swiftech MCW6002 • Gemini Tsunami VGA block • Gemini Tsunami S478 block (cold side chiller block) 110W 16v TEC @ 60W 12v Loop 2: PC Watercooling Shop 12v Water Pump • PCWCS 80.2 Rad • Gemini Tsunami (hot side chiller block)

08-20-2005, 02:19 PM	#12
Bundles Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Scotland Posts: 32	Yup, added to there always being something to learn, things to try and configurations to test, it's by far the best and most enjoyable method of PC cooling imo. __________________ "Okay, okay! I take it back. Unf*ck you!!!"

08-18-2005, 07:50 AM	#3
JFettig Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND Posts: 504	Leave it. your not likely able to lap it as flat as cathar has already. A little oxidation doesnt really make a difference, if you want to get rid of it, use brasso or ketchup and a soft cloth. Jon

08-18-2005, 09:12 AM	#5
Cathar Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 2,538	A quick lap on wet 1000-grit paper is unlikely to cause any harm if you're really bothered by it. A good soak in ketchup is apparantly another approach, but if you're doing that, then you may as well use Brasso, followed up by rubbing down with isopropanol to remove any Brasso residue.

08-18-2005, 10:30 AM	#7
mcmad Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: UK Posts: 8	lemon juice brings copper up nicely..

08-18-2005, 11:33 AM	#8
Bloody_Sorcerer Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Near frozenCPU Posts: 55	most acidic substances will remove copper oxide: ketchup, vinegar, lemon juice, hydrochloric acid, etc. dunno if brasso is acidic, so i didn't list it :-P

08-18-2005, 10:08 PM	#10
Cathar Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 2,538	Brasso is mostly an ammonia/kero solution with a suspended buffing compound.

08-19-2005, 08:01 AM	#11
ljohn787 Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: New Jersey Posts: 35	Yeah, I definitely agree with Cathar on the lapping with kerosene... that's just from my own machine shop experience, but that's the great thing about watercooling. It's just the collection of various trades boiled down into one little community (maybe boiled isn't the right word here).

08-25-2005, 01:02 PM	#14
mcmad Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: UK Posts: 8	blimey, what you got in that loop.. soft toothbrush works best for me, I used a handsoap when i cleaned mine..

08-25-2005, 01:17 PM	#15
Bundles Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Scotland Posts: 32	LOL! Not used this block yet, just got it yesterday. toothbrush was the plan, but i had no idea how strong the jets were, so thought it better safe than sorry and asked on here __________________ "Okay, okay! I take it back. Unf*ck you!!!"

08-25-2005, 01:19 PM	#16
mcmad Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: UK Posts: 8	be gentle with it, leave it to soak for a while first etc & it will clean up nicely..

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