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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
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#1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: finlando
Posts: 48
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I put this together to test out bong function. I have a much taller pvc pipe that i will use but for testing i am using this scrap piece. So far... that pump got hot, the water didn't cool down, and its noisy. The noise is ok, but i want it to cool...
i think the main problem is im using it passive, and that its way to shot. Also note that the top vent holes seem very sub-sufficient for the hot water vapor to escape. Also i noticed a slow leak on the output nozzle on the pump. Oh and its leaking from the shower head area which i think is a bit too large... but this is just a mock up, once its finalized i will be using caulk(sp) or some glue to seal it up. (im posting this on other cooling forms too...) oops can some one move this ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by diff_lock2; 06-19-2007 at 02:01 PM. |
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#2 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 129
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I never knew that vapor cooling (bong cooling) was used in PC cooling. I got the idea months back and was eager to become a pioneer. Until recently, I came to know that this had been applied years ago. Well…
The idea came to me when I came to know that a friend of mine owns a water cooler (room cooler) manufacturing company. I paid him a visit and learned a thing or two. From what I see (pics), you do not have a passive cooling setup either. It is a closed loop and hence there is not even a slightest possibility that you can vaporize the water and acquire cooling. The window is just not enough (round pipe I see in pic). To make it passive you have to cut a piece in middle of the pipe such that you can see the water ‘shower’. The room breeze (assuming you are running a room fan) would vaporize the water. With passive cooling do not expect much. You need a fan so that it hits at molecular level (of water). With that expect even 10 C below ambient temp. For noise, use ping pong balls. That would spread up with water as well as reduce the splash of water. You can use anything as well as it spreads the water for air to hit it and to reduce the splash sound of water. You can apply this to your existing setup, i.e. fan and ping pong balls. I have a design in mind but I will share that later on. |
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#3 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: finlando
Posts: 48
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#4 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: USA
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Your new setup will show improvement but I still do not see a fan. Fan is a must (even a low CFM would do well). The setup should be such that fan blows air from one side and takes the steam (vapor) out through a window infront of it (at the other end) i.e exhaust should have no restriction getting out and that can be achieved when in and out are in same line.
The trick is to vaporize water. Blowing air into water accelerates the process of vaporization. The vaporized water has to be removed from the 'container' as it posses higher temperature. I am not going into details of theory but if you want, I can. ![]() Good luck. Last edited by ibmkg; 06-20-2007 at 04:00 AM. |
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#5 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: finlando
Posts: 48
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yeah for sure im going to run a 120mm... im just test fitting everything and checking what the pump can handle, that was way to high, barely fit in the house! and the pump couldn't reach the top, well it could be it just trickled down (the water).
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#6 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 129
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For instant sealing of holes (leaks), use hot glue gun. It works pretty well for short term. Make sure the glue gun is really really hot and glue is 100% melted when applied. Let it cool down before using (and never touch while it is applied and hot!)
This thread should have been in General Water Cooling section . |
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#7 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: finlando
Posts: 48
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yeah i know i added that to my first post (it says oops)
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#8 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: finlando
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Ok so now that i built it all up, the pump reaches the top just fine.
I want to get some of that expanding foam to fit around the 80mm antec fan. I am thinking of putting a sock over the intake and exhaust for dust (and HAIR) control. Pics... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#9 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: USA
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Looks you are determined.
Ok the problems I see: a) Intake and exhaust are NOT in same line, which they should. Air that is coming IN should have no restriction getting OUT. b) The foam/socks should come before the fan. Your fan is not powerful enough to blow air through it. You can use some 'cage roll mesh' or get air filter out of an AC and cut it to size (you can ask local hardware dealer for that or if you can locate an AC service/repair shop they would guide you). With filter located on the ‘outside’ you can maintain it easily too. Why are you using such an extended bong? In addition, does it work? |
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#10 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: finlando
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So far with that tiny fan, it hasn't really chilled the water.
And its noisy. I think i need more fan power. Much more. I can feel air escaping from the top (the branching off part) so i think the flow is fine... i have no other way to mount the shower head.... i will check up on that filter idea, but right now i think i just need a more powerful fan. What do you mean extended bong, and it has dropped the water temps by 2deg now, i was expecting a lot more. |
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#11 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: USA
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You are not getting noticeable drop in temperature due the fact that the design is not efficient and that could be due to:
a) Vapor not escaping fast enough from the rig b) Water is not getting hit by air (could be low surface area of water or improper fan configuration) The idea of exhaust at top does not look good to me. The vapor would condense back before reaching the ‘window’. Condensed water would raise the temperature again (to ambient). You should not only feel air coming out but also if you place say ‘paper’ at the exhaust end, it should get wet due to vapors. [sort of Moisturized] In a loop, you should expect at least 5C drop. 10 C drop will be acceptable. By extended I mean so 'tall'. Reduce the height or you will be left with no useful head. [whats the actual length?] |
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#12 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: finlando
Posts: 48
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140cm tall. (4.59317585 feet)
I tried a larger fan, and it started spraying water out from the top so i put a sock on it and it only dropped the temps ~5deg. Room was 25 and water was 18.5 also the pump is getting a bit hot, i might want to run it submerged, but i dono. And the system is loud due to the water falling, i think i might need to fill the whole thing with some verly open material. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#13 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2005
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You should not use sock to block exit. One of the draw back with vapor cooling is the vapor itself.
Pump should not get even 'warm'. It must be stalling. If so, you need to reduce the length of the 'bong'. |
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#14 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: finlando
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What does stalling mean? Its rated at 6ft of head, and its pumping the water just fine. Arg this is going nowhere.
With out the sock its just shooting out drops of water, wetting the surrounding area (the floor). Once i get my water block for the cpu installed i can figure out if its cooling well enough. |
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#15 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Denmark
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http://www.wc101.com/guides/bongs <-- Not to pimp another site, but is has good explanation..
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#16 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: USA
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You need to have at least 3-5 feet of pressure head left out (this is important!). Let us analyze your loop.
Your bong is 4.5 feet tall. I see pump located above the reservoir. So let us suppose your pump is pumping up water at 4 feet. 6-4 = 2ft (6 is the rated pressure head of your pump). 1ft would be consumed by bends and tiny holes of the shower. So you are left with 1-1 1/2 of pressure head which is nothing. Unless you have an extremely efficient low restriction WB, your loop is not good enough for PC cooling. Furthermore, the water serves two purposes in the pump (besides being pumped). a) To lubricate b) To cool down the pump itself If the pump stalls (impeller is at low speed due to restriction(s)) the pump gets hot. In long term (few days) your pump, will eventually burnout. BTW, is your pump submersible? |
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#17 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: finlando
Posts: 48
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![]() Last edited by diff_lock2; 06-24-2007 at 04:55 AM. |
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#18 |
Cooling Savant
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The review mentions that pump gets warm on a 24/7 use.
If you submerse the pump in the loop (reservoir), then what is the use of bong cooling? The bong temperature would rise again to ambient temperature. I suggest you revise your design. Make a design such that pump is continuously primed (place the pump below the water level). Moreover, lower the height of the bong. I am sure your pump is stalling. How is the flow in the loop? How is the flow at the top (just before the shower head)? |
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#19 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: finlando
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flow looks good, i will see how fast it fills a bottle
-------- edit, i ran it submerged; and its 8 inches shorter (the bong) much more water is coming out. i need too seal the shower head due to pressure. im reading ~600l/h took less than 3 sec to fill 1/2 a liter. now i need to build it up for more testing Last edited by diff_lock2; 06-24-2007 at 09:43 AM. |
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#20 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: huh?
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Hydor pumps run really hot. I think it's normal. Of course it's good to check for stalls. BUt again, hydors run hot for normal use.
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#21 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: finlando
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the bong just hit 16c, it got to 18 (from 25) in 8min and im not done tweaking.
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#22 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2006
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#23 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: finlando
Posts: 48
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This block is SUPER restrictive, i need pump #2 lol. Soon. For now just pasive water cooling.
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#24 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2006
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#25 |
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Nice work, thanks for the pictures!
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