Tec water chiller(off topic but need expertese)

nportelli · 04-23-2002, 08:27 AM

Ok first off this is off topic kinda. I want to use a Tec to chill water but not for a computer. I want to chill my fish tank. I'd figured I ask this forum since you have much more experience using Tec's than the fish community. The hard part is that no copper or aluminum can touch the water. There are tank chiller but cost a bundle $600+. They use Titanium for water contact. There is a product called the iceprobe that uses a 50w tec. It had a ceramic or plastic touching the water. I want to do the same idea but with something a bit more powerful. I may just use a cooling tower instead. Does anyone have any good links for those? Thanks for any help.

Mr Evil · 04-23-2002, 09:43 AM

How about anodized aluminium? It is very unreactive and so should be perfectly safe to have in contact with water.

I don't know if Peltiers are really the best choice for this application. They are very inefficient compared to compressors. Unless space is that much of a problem.

nportelli · 04-23-2002, 10:59 AM

We are talking salt water here. So it is very corrosive. My though was anodized aluminium too. But even minute traces of a foreign substance can be extremely deadly to a system. Especially copper. A pletier may not be the best solution but it is one. Like I siad I can buy a chiller made for this. I just don't want to drop the money. A compressor is a better solution but by the time I get all the parts and figure out what to do with them. I should just buy a real chiller. I'm just looking for idea's thanks.

Kevin · 04-23-2002, 01:47 PM

http://www.procooling.com/articles/h...r_chille.shtml
That was my first stab at H2O chlling so do not take it as discouraging. I learned a lot from it. Basically, you need to have the water recirculate through the chiller (which you will because it is an aquarium). Also, insulation is key. You must insulate the cold side of the block. Otherwise, most of the cold goes into the air, not the water. I do think you can be successful using a cooling block like I did though. Because there are no true heat sources in the aquarium, you can just recirculate the water through the chiller and expect it to slowly, but surely, chill the water.
-Kev

nportelli · 04-23-2002, 02:12 PM

I have to say I'm getting more replys on this board than any other one. Thanks.

I thought about using a block. But I can't have copper touch my water. So I'd have to have a rubber tube through it or something. The more I think about it the less of a good idea using a tec is. Titanium, stainless steel or rubber or plastic are the only things that can safely touch the water. Not the best thermal properties. Though I though about trying anodnized Al. And there are true heat sources in an aquarium. Pumps for one. And I have two 175watt Metal Halids above it. Plus the amount of water in the system. If anyone really want to throw there money away, start a saltwater tank.

EMC2 · 04-23-2002, 06:28 PM

If you've got a reef tank, I don't see any feasible ways (read, not $$$$$) to use TECs

I would be wary of even using anodized aluminum in the case of inverts in the tank.

You could find a decent compressor setup though for about half of what a good quality chiller for reef tanks cost if your patient, especially if you know anyone that does HVAC work.

(FYI - I have cichlid tanks, one for my Tanganikans and one for my Malawis - the true saltwater/reef tank route was just too much $ and PITA for my blood, lol)

Brad · 04-24-2002, 02:24 AM

so just use a stainless steel extrusion as the coldplate/block.

04-23-2002, 08:27 AM	#1
nportelli Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2001 Posts: 26	Tec water chiller(off topic but need expertese) Ok first off this is off topic kinda. I want to use a Tec to chill water but not for a computer. I want to chill my fish tank. I'd figured I ask this forum since you have much more experience using Tec's than the fish community. The hard part is that no copper or aluminum can touch the water. There are tank chiller but cost a bundle $600+. They use Titanium for water contact. There is a product called the iceprobe that uses a 50w tec. It had a ceramic or plastic touching the water. I want to do the same idea but with something a bit more powerful. I may just use a cooling tower instead. Does anyone have any good links for those? Thanks for any help.

04-23-2002, 09:43 AM	#2
Mr Evil Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: UK Posts: 43	How about anodized aluminium? It is very unreactive and so should be perfectly safe to have in contact with water. I don't know if Peltiers are really the best choice for this application. They are very inefficient compared to compressors. Unless space is that much of a problem. __________________ http://come.to/MrEvil http://www.cheese83.freeserve.co.uk/athlon.htm

04-23-2002, 01:47 PM	#4
Kevin Slacking more than your weird uncle Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: San Diego, CA (UCSD) / Los Angeles, CA (home) Posts: 1,605	http://www.procooling.com/articles/h...r_chille.shtml That was my first stab at H2O chlling so do not take it as discouraging. I learned a lot from it. Basically, you need to have the water recirculate through the chiller (which you will because it is an aquarium). Also, insulation is key. You must insulate the cold side of the block. Otherwise, most of the cold goes into the air, not the water. I do think you can be successful using a cooling block like I did though. Because there are no true heat sources in the aquarium, you can just recirculate the water through the chiller and expect it to slowly, but surely, chill the water. -Kev __________________ I used to throw hot coffee all over the ass of the horse there, then whip him while he was kickin' at me. Those f***in things are crazy.

04-24-2002, 02:24 AM	#7
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	so just use a stainless steel extrusion as the coldplate/block. __________________ 2x P3 1100's at 1400, Abit VP6, 2x Corsair 256mb PC150 sticks, 20gb 'cuda ATA-III, 2x 40gb 'cuda ATA-IV in raid 0. 20" Trinitron. No fans 2x 2400+ at 2288mhz (16.0 x 143), Iwill MPX2, 2x Kingmax PC-3200 256mb sticks, 4x 20gb 60gxp in Raid 5 on a Promise SX6000. Asus Ti4200 320/630. Cooled by Water

04-23-2002, 10:59 AM	#3
nportelli Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2001 Posts: 26	We are talking salt water here. So it is very corrosive. My though was anodized aluminium too. But even minute traces of a foreign substance can be extremely deadly to a system. Especially copper. A pletier may not be the best solution but it is one. Like I siad I can buy a chiller made for this. I just don't want to drop the money. A compressor is a better solution but by the time I get all the parts and figure out what to do with them. I should just buy a real chiller. I'm just looking for idea's thanks.

04-23-2002, 02:12 PM	#5
nportelli Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2001 Posts: 26	I have to say I'm getting more replys on this board than any other one. Thanks. I thought about using a block. But I can't have copper touch my water. So I'd have to have a rubber tube through it or something. The more I think about it the less of a good idea using a tec is. Titanium, stainless steel or rubber or plastic are the only things that can safely touch the water. Not the best thermal properties. Though I though about trying anodnized Al. And there are true heat sources in an aquarium. Pumps for one. And I have two 175watt Metal Halids above it. Plus the amount of water in the system. If anyone really want to throw there money away, start a saltwater tank.

04-23-2002, 06:28 PM	#6
EMC2 Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dark Side of the Moon Posts: 365	If you've got a reef tank, I don't see any feasible ways (read, not $$$$$) to use TECs I would be wary of even using anodized aluminum in the case of inverts in the tank. You could find a decent compressor setup though for about half of what a good quality chiller for reef tanks cost if your patient, especially if you know anyone that does HVAC work. (FYI - I have cichlid tanks, one for my Tanganikans and one for my Malawis - the true saltwater/reef tank route was just too much $ and PITA for my blood, lol)

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