Pics of my clear air trap!

redleader · 07-02-2002, 04:46 PM

I used 2 inch clear PVC from US Plastics, 3/8 NPT barbs and some generic end caps. Tap is 12 inches high with 7 inches as a res, for a total 7pi in^2 or about 22in square of water.

redleader · 07-02-2002, 04:48 PM

I filled the pipe with water after I tapped it to make sure the threads sealed properly and it has no leaks.

Still the threads are very narrow and I'd like to make sure it won't leak. Whats the best way to seal it? I was thinking coat the entire threaded part in JBWeld, or is there a better way?

bigben2k · 07-02-2002, 05:13 PM

I'd go with teflon.

What's 22 inches square of water?

Volume=piR^2*height
R=1 inch (assuming inner dia is 2 in.)
pi=3.14
height=12-7=5 in

I get 15.7 cubic inches of water. Anyone else?

bigben2k · 07-02-2002, 05:26 PM

Oh, I see...

Volume=piR^2*height
R=1 inch (assuming inner dia is 2 in.)
pi=3.14
height of res=7 in.

22 cubic inches!

redleader · 07-02-2002, 05:30 PM

Not bad off the top of my head

Anyway I could do teflon tape, but its so thin I'm concerned about the threads stripping off if it got hit around. PVC is tough, but its still a plastic. :/

Cyco-Dude · 07-02-2002, 10:56 PM

you could just put a bead of plumbers goop around the barbs.....

Sanjuro · 07-02-2002, 11:25 PM

Are you having water go in from the top fitting or the bottom?

V12|V12 · 07-03-2002, 04:54 AM

Nice looking... but why have the inlet and outlet so darn close? Why not have them further apart? Teflon tape anyone? And 3/8in barbs? It's 1/2" or bust... but it looks like it should work great anyhow! Nice

fresno12 · 07-03-2002, 05:08 AM

If you can find it in your area

Goop makes an adhesive sealant for marine uses that comes clear

Marine Goop

I have used for similar connections and have not had a failure, the biggest advantage over JBWeld is it is clear and does not seem to yellow with age.

fresno12

redleader · 07-03-2002, 01:19 PM

Its 1/2 inch, just the thread size 3/8 NPT (about 5/8 ID).

fresno12:

Just what I wanted to hear. I'll look into it.

Thanks.

07-02-2002, 04:46 PM	#1
redleader Thermophile Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: The deserts of Tucson, Az Posts: 1,264	Pics of my clear air trap! I used 2 inch clear PVC from US Plastics, 3/8 NPT barbs and some generic end caps. Tap is 12 inches high with 7 inches as a res, for a total 7pi in^2 or about 22in square of water.

07-02-2002, 05:13 PM	#3
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	I'd go with teflon. What's 22 inches square of water? Volume=piR^2*height R=1 inch (assuming inner dia is 2 in.) pi=3.14 height=12-7=5 in I get 15.7 cubic inches of water. Anyone else? __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-02-2002, 05:26 PM	#4
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Oh, I see... Volume=piR^2height R=1 inch (assuming inner dia is 2 in.) pi=3.14 height of res=7 in.* 22 cubic inches! __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-02-2002, 11:25 PM	#7
Sanjuro Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Port Coquitlam, BC Posts: 74	Are you having water go in from the top fitting or the bottom? __________________ Nothing to call home about...

07-03-2002, 04:54 AM	#8
V12\|V12 Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Ohio-State! <--Money Hussle! SUCKS Posts: 292	Nice looking... but why have the inlet and outlet so darn close? Why not have them further apart? Teflon tape anyone? And 3/8in barbs? It's 1/2" or bust... but it looks like it should work great anyhow! Nice __________________ XP 1600+ AGOIA-Y (GreenLabel, UNLOCKED!@/ NF7-S 2.0/ PC 2700 DDR 10.5*172FSB(1806/ 1991 high), Vcore 1.792...@84.95Watts --86' Chevette Heater Core --1/2" Vinyl tubes --Via1300-Stealth Mod(QUIET!) ---Home made copper-tube block ---PVC small internal res

07-02-2002, 04:48 PM	#2
redleader Thermophile Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: The deserts of Tucson, Az Posts: 1,264	I filled the pipe with water after I tapped it to make sure the threads sealed properly and it has no leaks. Still the threads are very narrow and I'd like to make sure it won't leak. Whats the best way to seal it? I was thinking coat the entire threaded part in JBWeld, or is there a better way?

07-02-2002, 05:30 PM	#5
redleader Thermophile Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: The deserts of Tucson, Az Posts: 1,264	Not bad off the top of my head Anyway I could do teflon tape, but its so thin I'm concerned about the threads stripping off if it got hit around. PVC is tough, but its still a plastic. :/

07-02-2002, 10:56 PM	#6
Cyco-Dude Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 836	you could just put a bead of plumbers goop around the barbs.....

07-03-2002, 05:08 AM	#9
fresno12 Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Puerto Rico Posts: 22	If you can find it in your area Goop makes an adhesive sealant for marine uses that comes clear Marine Goop I have used for similar connections and have not had a failure, the biggest advantage over JBWeld is it is clear and does not seem to yellow with age. fresno12

07-03-2002, 01:19 PM	#10
redleader Thermophile Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: The deserts of Tucson, Az Posts: 1,264	Its 1/2 inch, just the thread size 3/8 NPT (about 5/8 ID). fresno12: Just what I wanted to hear. I'll look into it. Thanks.

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