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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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#1 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: The deserts of Tucson, Az
Posts: 1,264
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I've been running straight water for the last two months. Last night I added some alcohol (isopropal) and then this morning a few drops of WW. The reason is I hate WW, so I'm running alcohol as a biocide. Works great. When I popped the top of my radiator I heard a satifing pop sound indicateing that my system is air tight.
Anyway I added a tiny amount of WW. I'm talking 1/10 the recommend amount. The instant it hit the water the stuff turned brillant white. Anyone ever do titrations and add very weak acid to a strong base w/ indicator? It was like that, the red just vanished on contact. Then the white spread out from the res and within 10 seconds my entire system was white. Now I've run alcohol and WW before with no trouble. I know thats not the problem. I don't, however, have any idea what happened. Has anyone else seen this before? |
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#2 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Rockledge,FL,US
Posts: 731
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Wish you could've gotten that on video tape
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My old and retired watercooling setup. Watercooled K6-2 450 at 600 Also Retired - Watercooling an XP1800@1782MHz |
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#3 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: The deserts of Tucson, Az
Posts: 1,264
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Its been 8 or so hours and its just a pale white now. How odd.
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#4 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Just shut up ;) ...
Posts: 1,068
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What else does that?, Jeyes fluid/bleach does does'nt it?. Are you sure the H20 did'nt have anything else but Isopropal Alchohol in it before the WW?. I've never used WW so I don't know it's peculiaralitys, but it can stain some tube white can't it?.
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#5 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: France
Posts: 1,221
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Actually all reports of WW deposits were talking about either pink or black residues. Not white.
Some component in the WW reacted with whatever was present in his system besides isopropyl alcohol, maybe calcium from water (was tap water, right ?). I'm not a chemist, so i cannot say more than: "wow. amazing." |
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#6 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2001
Location: here
Posts: 494
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I could be wrong but I believe WW also posseses biocide properties. Was the alcohol necessary?
--Matt |
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#7 | |
Thermophile
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: The deserts of Tucson, Az
Posts: 1,264
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![]() Quote:
----- It was distilled water. I used a new heatercore and tygon tube. Both were flushed extensively. The only thing I can think of was the "Marine Goop" silicon based sealant I used. Perhaps some of it dissolved something into the water that reacted with the WW. Whatever it was it was, the stuff seems to be leaving the water in the form of a white percipitate that clings to the tygon very well. If enough settles I'll try and filter it out to see what it was. I'm just happy that my coolant stopped looking like Milk without too much trouble (so far). |
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#8 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Just shut up ;) ...
Posts: 1,068
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Percipitate =gunge, yes/no?
![]() I would'nt trust it, imagine the inside of the rad!. I'd have to strip and flush it if it were me :shrug: . I'd refill with just H20 and WW too, if mixed to the right amount it does actually fufil it's 'secondary' role as a biocide does'nt it?. Why do you hate WW so much?, your system is closed yes?... |
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#9 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Sweden
Posts: 63
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Hmmm, i thought WW:s recommended dosation was 1/32.... Btw, when i used 1/32 instead of something like 1/10 i got about 5 degrees of my CPU.
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#10 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: SWEDEN(cold...)
Posts: 195
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i would still go for some leftover treatment chemical in the heatercore that you were unable to get out with flushing.
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