Acryllic Box Flow Design Tweaking required?[Pics]

Shreder-X · 01-12-2003, 05:35 PM

I have had my box up and running for a few weeks now i am keeping low thirties temps and that is fine. But i would like to optimize my system design while i have the time. I took some shots of my system as of today the 12th
Here is one of the closed system connected
One with the system open and in close proximity
Closeup of the watercooling Box
Closeup no. 2 other side of box
I have some water wetter on the way that will be added within the next few days. The questions i have are about the tube lengths, height from pump, and curves.

If my system was strung out straight so that there were no real large curves in the tubing would that help the pump out with its work.

Also the height the waterblock is above the pump is this supposed to be maximized for the head on the pump or kept relatively close? I really don't know anymore about the height besides keeping the pump below the waterblock.

Using the shortest possible tubing length would seem to be the best way to increase flow rate, if i shortened the tub length between the box and comp hypothetically that should have an improvement?

Can anyone spot or think of improvements from my pics i've provided. My pump is a atman-305 500gph pump, Clearflex tubing, '75 Bronco heatercore, One Vantec Stealth 120mm Fan with homemade shroud. I have an unlocked 1600+ XP on a MSI K7N420-D Mobo.

I get odd temp. reads from my two probes i have one that came with my thermaltake Xaser 6000 case on the hardcano unit i have it thermal taped to the bottom of my cpu a little off center so the whole diode could fit under the cpu. Then i have the onboard cpu diode which i read through MBM and gives me the low thirties temps. While the Hardcano diode read hight thirties into the 40's but now the LCD display wen't shot and can barely read it so i stopped using that for temps.

gmat · 01-12-2003, 06:06 PM

What is bad for flow is:
- Elbows
- Fittings
- sharp turns
- tubing length
Reduce any of those parameters and you'll get an improvement (as long as you don't increase another one...)

You can also cut a square hole for the back of your heater core, that way you'll use more of its surface...

BrianW · 01-12-2003, 08:58 PM

You are not using over 1/2 of your heater cores surface area.

I couldn't find your core on www.heatercore4u.com , so I will make some assumptions:

Size of fin area: 6" X 7"
Size of hole cutout(diameter): 5"

Total fin area 6X7=42
Area of circle you have cutout: 19.63
Area you have covered: 23.37
% of Area of used surface : 46.7
% od Area not used: 53.3

You should consider remounting that radiator. You will definitely help your temps.

Brian W

Shreder-X · 01-13-2003, 10:46 AM

within the next few days i will try to cut out the box for the radiator. THanks for doing those calculations.

Fixittt · 01-13-2003, 04:59 PM

I have one suggestion for you that has nothing to do with temps, but more that eye candy factor.

1. cut the plastic slower. take your time. It will look better.
2. Drill slower. The hole that the pumps power cord goes thrue is starting to crack. I would drill it out, but slower and use coolant.

3. what every one else had said. The heater core is being wasted. If it were me doint it. I would take a hole saw and drill out the 4 corners where the heater core would fit. Line it up so that the OD will make rounded corners for your cut out. Then take a jig saw with a 2x4 clamped to the plexy as a straight edge. Then connect the 4 holes. It will make a nice straight cut, with nice rounded corners. And still give you plenty of plastic if you needed to bolt the heater core to the plastic. Also I would use some weather stripping (Foam with tape on the back) and place it between the heatercore and the plastic. Just to keep the vibrations down. So it doesnt resonate thrue the plastic box.

Looks good.

01-12-2003, 05:35 PM	#1
Shreder-X Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Clarkson - Potsdam NY Posts: 24	Acryllic Box Flow Design Tweaking required?[Pics] I have had my box up and running for a few weeks now i am keeping low thirties temps and that is fine. But i would like to optimize my system design while i have the time. I took some shots of my system as of today the 12th Here is one of the closed system connected One with the system open and in close proximity Closeup of the watercooling Box Closeup no. 2 other side of box I have some water wetter on the way that will be added within the next few days. The questions i have are about the tube lengths, height from pump, and curves. If my system was strung out straight so that there were no real large curves in the tubing would that help the pump out with its work. Also the height the waterblock is above the pump is this supposed to be maximized for the head on the pump or kept relatively close? I really don't know anymore about the height besides keeping the pump below the waterblock. Using the shortest possible tubing length would seem to be the best way to increase flow rate, if i shortened the tub length between the box and comp hypothetically that should have an improvement? Can anyone spot or think of improvements from my pics i've provided. My pump is a atman-305 500gph pump, Clearflex tubing, '75 Bronco heatercore, One Vantec Stealth 120mm Fan with homemade shroud. I have an unlocked 1600+ XP on a MSI K7N420-D Mobo. I get odd temp. reads from my two probes i have one that came with my thermaltake Xaser 6000 case on the hardcano unit i have it thermal taped to the bottom of my cpu a little off center so the whole diode could fit under the cpu. Then i have the onboard cpu diode which i read through MBM and gives me the low thirties temps. While the Hardcano diode read hight thirties into the 40's but now the LCD display wen't shot and can barely read it so i stopped using that for temps.

01-12-2003, 08:58 PM	#3
BrianW Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Desert City in California Posts: 631	You are not using over 1/2 of your heater cores surface area. I couldn't find your core on www.heatercore4u.com , so I will make some assumptions: Size of fin area: 6" X 7" Size of hole cutout(diameter): 5" Total fin area 6X7=42 Area of circle you have cutout: 19.63 Area you have covered: 23.37 % of Area of used surface : 46.7 % od Area not used: 53.3 You should consider remounting that radiator. You will definitely help your temps. Brian W __________________ Water Cooled Inwin Q500 (Dual Rads: Rad1 = DTEK Pro Core \| Rad2 = Blick Ice Estreme, Hydor L30, Dangerden Maze2, Bay Res Typhoon Reservoir, 1/2 " DD Tygon Thick Wall Hose). Flow: Res, Pump, CPU watervlock, Y into both rads, both rads into res independently. Athlon XP 1800+ (@ 1731 - 150mhz fsb.), on a Asus A7N266-c, and a Radeon 9000 waiting for RMA'd Saphire 9800 ultra from Newegg) Last edited by BrianW; 01-12-2003 at 09:56 PM.*

01-13-2003, 04:59 PM	#5
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	I have one suggestion for you that has nothing to do with temps, but more that eye candy factor. 1. cut the plastic slower. take your time. It will look better. 2. Drill slower. The hole that the pumps power cord goes thrue is starting to crack. I would drill it out, but slower and use coolant. 3. what every one else had said. The heater core is being wasted. If it were me doint it. I would take a hole saw and drill out the 4 corners where the heater core would fit. Line it up so that the OD will make rounded corners for your cut out. Then take a jig saw with a 2x4 clamped to the plexy as a straight edge. Then connect the 4 holes. It will make a nice straight cut, with nice rounded corners. And still give you plenty of plastic if you needed to bolt the heater core to the plastic. Also I would use some weather stripping (Foam with tape on the back) and place it between the heatercore and the plastic. Just to keep the vibrations down. So it doesnt resonate thrue the plastic box. Looks good. __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

01-12-2003, 06:06 PM	#2
gmat Thermophile Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: France Posts: 1,221	What is bad for flow is: - Elbows - Fittings - sharp turns - tubing length Reduce any of those parameters and you'll get an improvement (as long as you don't increase another one...) You can also cut a square hole for the back of your heater core, that way you'll use more of its surface...

01-13-2003, 10:46 AM	#4
Shreder-X Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Clarkson - Potsdam NY Posts: 24	within the next few days i will try to cut out the box for the radiator. THanks for doing those calculations.

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