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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it

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Unread 02-15-2003, 01:31 PM   #1
#Rotor
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Default Cutting thread (movie inside)

OK! For all those budding young blockbuilders out there that just can't seem to figure out how some of us are able to get thread into a chunk of copper, without snapping the tap..... I have something for ya.



some assumptions:

You are using a proper high quality tap.
The drilled hole size, matches the tap and percentile thread requirements.
You are tapping perpenticular. (i.e. straight)
You kinda know what you are doing.

If all those are good, then this method should do you well.
one thing you always have to do is sence the tention while cutting, always work with feel, if it get tighter, as you progress, it means you are not perpendicular. You will have to be extra careful, and hope you are not too scew..... have fun.
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Unread 02-15-2003, 02:49 PM   #2
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Nice little clip! Also would advise using some type of lube like Tap Magic or whatever. I usually use WD-40.
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Unread 02-15-2003, 03:04 PM   #3
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hehe ... if I had not cropped the movie so severally, it would have been included in the images.... the WD40 is just outside of view on that one.... but good observation indeed.
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Unread 02-15-2003, 06:27 PM   #4
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nice shirt :P

i really have do idea what you are turning and what its doing...

lol

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Unread 02-15-2003, 07:14 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by Spamz0r
nice shirt :P

i really have do idea what you are turning and what its doing...

lol

He is threading a hole so you can put a screw in it.
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Unread 02-15-2003, 07:39 PM   #6
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another tip;

If you have a drill press, you can start the thread going by putting the tap in the chuck and position it centered over the hole, then MANUALY rotate the tap into the hole (taking the drive belts off makes this easier) this ensures that the tap starts perfectly perpendicular, then when you have a couple of threads cut you can take it out and continue with a normal tap handle.

very usefull for the larger hose barb threaded holes.(especially since my good tap is a blind hole one)
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Unread 02-15-2003, 07:57 PM   #7
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my waterblock top will be perspex and there will be 3 barbs in it, 4 clear holes no threads required and another 4 to hold the top to the bottom, the top wond have any threads but my copper base will need 4 "taps"


so how do i tap perspex ?
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Unread 02-15-2003, 08:09 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by Spamz0r
my waterblock top will be perspex and there will be 3 barbs in it, 4 clear holes no threads required and another 4 to hold the top to the bottom, the top wond have any threads but my copper base will need 4 "taps"


so how do i tap perspex ?
you do perspex in the same way, it's easy compared to copper

though you have to be carefull not to have holes too close to each other or the edge (cracking), I generally use a hole a fraction larger than needed, that way you cut shallower threads and put less stress on the perspex.
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Unread 02-17-2003, 03:05 PM   #9
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I didnt know you could thread in other ways than that....hehe
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Unread 02-17-2003, 05:33 PM   #10
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Well, a very popular "other way" usually ends up with more than half the tap left stuck, firmly inside the hole. Needless to say, it's more then enough to screw up an otherwisely perfect block and day....
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Unread 02-17-2003, 05:54 PM   #11
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what was that count --Josh
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Unread 02-18-2003, 08:47 PM   #12
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If you want a real challenge try to tap 4-40 into a chunk of copper That little bit likes to twist.
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Unread 02-19-2003, 02:18 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by Volenti
another tip;

If you have a drill press, you can start the thread going by putting the tap in the chuck and position it centered over the hole, then MANUALY rotate the tap into the hole (taking the drive belts off makes this easier) this ensures that the tap starts perfectly perpendicular, then when you have a couple of threads cut you can take it out and continue with a normal tap handle.

very usefull for the larger hose barb threaded holes.(especially since my good tap is a blind hole one)
I second that i cant believe someone else does the same thing, i thought it was kind of silly
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Unread 02-19-2003, 02:35 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by Volenti
you do perspex in the same way, it's easy compared to copper

though you have to be carefull not to have holes too close to each other or the edge (cracking), I generally use a hole a fraction larger than needed, that way you cut shallower threads and put less stress on the perspex.
cheers
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Unread 02-19-2003, 02:42 AM   #15
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since i once lost a WB half with a M4 tap stuck... now the tapping is the first thing i do.

in the end, all the theory in the world won't save you with cheap tapping bits, as rotor said. using HQ bits makes it hard to screw them in in a not perpendicular way even.
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Unread 02-19-2003, 02:51 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by g.l.amour
since i once lost a WB half with a M4 tap stuck... now the tapping is the first thing i do.

in the end, all the theory in the world won't save you with cheap tapping bits, as rotor said. using HQ bits makes it hard to screw them in in a not perpendicular way even.
*is nervos
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Unread 02-19-2003, 09:17 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by FRAGN'STIEN
If you want a real challenge try to tap 4-40 into a chunk of copper That little bit likes to twist.

I'm up for that....



take note of the copper shavings still on it..... note its bigger brother that was not so lucky...
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Unread 02-19-2003, 09:33 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by #Rotor
I'm up for that....



take note of the copper shavings still on it..... note its bigger brother that was not so lucky...
Hehe. Ouch
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Unread 02-20-2003, 06:38 PM   #19
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Ok fixed up the bandwidth hog a little bit.... thanks to some much appreciated help...

the link now points to the new file... 33% of the original....
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Unread 02-23-2003, 11:15 PM   #20
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Heres a tip from me


Whenever I go for threads 8-32 or smaller, I don't use taps at all since they break 90% of the time, unless they're really high quality taps. Instead, I use high strength self-tapping machine screws. The ones I have have a triangle shape on the ends so they "Displace" the metal instead of cutting it - they're not the screws with a cutting slot on the end.

I just apply some of my Castrol cutting wax I "borrowed" from previous employer , and thread it on in. Since I started doing it this way, I've never had a single problem with breakage and the threads haven't stripped out, and the screws also are tighter in the threads, unlike tapped threads that can be loose.
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