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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
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#1 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Dione, sector 4s1256
Posts: 852
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OK! For all those budding young blockbuilders out there that just can't seem to figure out how some of us are able to get thread into a chunk of copper, without snapping the tap..... I have something for ya.
![]() some assumptions: You are using a proper high quality tap. The drilled hole size, matches the tap and percentile thread requirements. You are tapping perpenticular. (i.e. straight) You kinda know what you are doing. If all those are good, then this method should do you well. one thing you always have to do is sence the tention while cutting, always work with feel, if it get tighter, as you progress, it means you are not perpendicular. You will have to be extra careful, and hope you are not too scew..... have fun.
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#2 |
Put up or Shut Up
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 6,506
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Nice little clip! Also would advise using some type of lube like Tap Magic or whatever. I usually use WD-40.
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#3 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Dione, sector 4s1256
Posts: 852
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hehe ... if I had not cropped the movie so severally, it would have been included in the images.... the WD40 is just outside of view on that one....
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#4 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Brisbane Austrailia (or where my computer is)
Posts: 86
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nice shirt :P
i really have do idea what you are turning and what its doing... lol ![]()
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#5 | |
Put up or Shut Up
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 6,506
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#6 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: in a nice cool spot
Posts: 427
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another tip;
If you have a drill press, you can start the thread going by putting the tap in the chuck and position it centered over the hole, then MANUALY rotate the tap into the hole (taking the drive belts off makes this easier) this ensures that the tap starts perfectly perpendicular, then when you have a couple of threads cut you can take it out and continue with a normal tap handle. very usefull for the larger hose barb threaded holes.(especially since my good tap is a blind hole one)
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#7 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Brisbane Austrailia (or where my computer is)
Posts: 86
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my waterblock top will be perspex and there will be 3 barbs in it, 4 clear holes no threads required and another 4 to hold the top to the bottom, the top wond have any threads but my copper base will need 4 "taps"
so how do i tap perspex ?
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#8 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: in a nice cool spot
Posts: 427
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![]() Quote:
![]() though you have to be carefull not to have holes too close to each other or the edge (cracking), I generally use a hole a fraction larger than needed, that way you cut shallower threads and put less stress on the perspex.
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#9 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sweden
Posts: 318
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I didnt know you could thread in other ways than that....hehe
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#10 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Dione, sector 4s1256
Posts: 852
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![]() ![]() Well, a very popular "other way" usually ends up with more than half the tap left stuck, firmly inside the hole. Needless to say, it's more then enough to screw up an otherwisely perfect block and day....
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#11 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: West Palm Beach
Posts: 230
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what was that count --Josh
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#12 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Rathdrum, ID
Posts: 380
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If you want a real challenge try to tap 4-40 into a chunk of copper
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#13 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 64
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#14 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Brisbane Austrailia (or where my computer is)
Posts: 86
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[1700+ (1466MHz 1.5v @ 1983MHz 1.975v) 2400+] - [SLK-800 w/50cfm Sunnon] - [Epox 8RDA+] - [256Mb Kingmax PC2100 & 256Mb Crucail PC2100 @ 2:2:2:5:2] - [ GF4 Leadtek 4200 (250/513 @ 300/600)] - [ 12851 3d2001SE] Hardware :: Modding :: Cooling :: Software :: Games :: Reviews :: Forums :: All at PlanetModz |
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#15 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: on da case
Posts: 933
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since i once lost a WB half with a M4 tap stuck... now the tapping is the first thing i do.
in the end, all the theory in the world won't save you with cheap tapping bits, as rotor said. using HQ bits makes it hard to screw them in in a not perpendicular way even.
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#16 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Brisbane Austrailia (or where my computer is)
Posts: 86
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[1700+ (1466MHz 1.5v @ 1983MHz 1.975v) 2400+] - [SLK-800 w/50cfm Sunnon] - [Epox 8RDA+] - [256Mb Kingmax PC2100 & 256Mb Crucail PC2100 @ 2:2:2:5:2] - [ GF4 Leadtek 4200 (250/513 @ 300/600)] - [ 12851 3d2001SE] Hardware :: Modding :: Cooling :: Software :: Games :: Reviews :: Forums :: All at PlanetModz |
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#17 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Dione, sector 4s1256
Posts: 852
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I'm up for that.... ![]() ![]() take note of the copper shavings still on it..... note its bigger brother that was not so lucky...
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#18 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Rathdrum, ID
Posts: 380
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#20 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Pa - USA
Posts: 264
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Heres a tip from me
![]() Whenever I go for threads 8-32 or smaller, I don't use taps at all since they break 90% of the time, unless they're really high quality taps. Instead, I use high strength self-tapping machine screws. The ones I have have a triangle shape on the ends so they "Displace" the metal instead of cutting it - they're not the screws with a cutting slot on the end. I just apply some of my Castrol cutting wax I "borrowed" from previous employer ![]() |
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