Scratching the anodized

Ketchak · 03-17-2003, 05:24 PM

I have read in this thread which comments nicozeg:

Quote:

Nice barbs that black polypropylene ones. It also solves the problem of scratching the anodized coating in the threads.

It is possible to avoid scratch of the following way.
I drill the piece for spiral of ¼ to 11.75 mm of diameter instead of 11,5.
With it the thread of the spiral is less acute.
The barbs that I use have the cylindrical spiral, is not conical. Of that way it does not take the hard anodizing layer.
For the sealed use Loctite 542
http://www.loctite.com.au/industrial/PRODUCTS/542.htm
http://www.loctite.com.au/TDS/product542.pdf
At the same time that it seals the spiral union protects in case that the hard anodizing jumped.
I take using this product for more than two years and I have never had flights.

"It is a possible solution"

Sorry my English.

Ketchak.
www.devilmaster.cjb.net

UnloadeD · 03-17-2003, 05:42 PM

I think "scratching" the anodizing is being blown out of proportion. The layer of oxidation from anodizing is very hard and I doubt brass barbs would harm it. Something that has been bugging me though was the mention of corrosion activity being concentrated if there is a small exposed/unanodized area. I did some reading on anodizing a while back, I was thinking of setting up a home brew outfit. Everything I read mentioned hanging the piece to be anodized by a wire/electrode into the solution. They also always mentioned that the place where the wire/electrode made contact with the piece would not be anodized. This called for a bit of planning ahead, and they usually suggested having the area in a spot that would be hidden when the piece was in normal use. Lately with all the talk about aluminum tops and corrosion, I've been wondering where this spot is on them. I would assume it would be in one of the mounting holes or some other dry spot. But I've kinda been suprised the subject has never came up. Well I feel better getting that off of my mind 8)

peace.
unloaded

bigben2k · 03-17-2003, 06:47 PM

I'd like to know too.

I'd assume it'd be simpler to make it a corner or side of the top, so that the exposed part is not exposed to water.

LiquidRulez · 03-17-2003, 09:52 PM

The method I use in my setup, is that when I hang a part in the tank ,I connect the electrode inside a hole that is to be threaded or used as a hole for a screw to assemble all parts .Because IME, the threaded portion of the screw /fitting ALWAYS scrapes off most of the oxidation anyway.
Also I make sure that the hole is seperated from water(or any other possible medium that can aid in corrosion)by use of an oring(usually around the outermost perimeter of the channels)and I coat the whole top in a clearcoat of laquer, covering the exposed Al hole,that I sometimes touch up with a mixture of clearcoat and the dye(if its in a critical area......as in a hole used to mount the top to the base).
.......Not really necessary, but sure makes it look nice when buffed up with some fine grit polishing compound.

@UnLoaded You should really set one up in your shop. Its alot of fun, and really cheap.
And this oxidation is very hard, but also very thin and brittle(for lack of a better word). So it DOES come off in most cases with barbs.
The PROS have a way to get around this.....I suspect touching up the point of electrode contact somehow.Dunno

UnloadeD · 03-18-2003, 05:09 AM

LR, thanks for correcting me. I wasn't considering the brittleness. It does sound like something fun to get into, but I really don't have a good space to do it. Also handling and disposing of the chemicals looks like it could be more than I'm willing to deal with. Biggest factor is lack of time. Maybe someday, but not in the near future.

peace.
unloaded

03-17-2003, 06:47 PM	#3
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	I'd like to know too. I'd assume it'd be simpler to make it a corner or side of the top, so that the exposed part is not exposed to water. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

03-17-2003, 05:42 PM	#2
UnloadeD Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: MidWest USA Posts: 176	I think "scratching" the anodizing is being blown out of proportion. The layer of oxidation from anodizing is very hard and I doubt brass barbs would harm it. Something that has been bugging me though was the mention of corrosion activity being concentrated if there is a small exposed/unanodized area. I did some reading on anodizing a while back, I was thinking of setting up a home brew outfit. Everything I read mentioned hanging the piece to be anodized by a wire/electrode into the solution. They also always mentioned that the place where the wire/electrode made contact with the piece would not be anodized. This called for a bit of planning ahead, and they usually suggested having the area in a spot that would be hidden when the piece was in normal use. Lately with all the talk about aluminum tops and corrosion, I've been wondering where this spot is on them. I would assume it would be in one of the mounting holes or some other dry spot. But I've kinda been suprised the subject has never came up. Well I feel better getting that off of my mind 8) peace. unloaded

03-17-2003, 09:52 PM	#4
LiquidRulez Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: In Hell Posts: 322	The method I use in my setup, is that when I hang a part in the tank ,I connect the electrode inside a hole that is to be threaded or used as a hole for a screw to assemble all parts .Because IME, the threaded portion of the screw /fitting ALWAYS scrapes off most of the oxidation anyway. Also I make sure that the hole is seperated from water(or any other possible medium that can aid in corrosion)by use of an oring(usually around the outermost perimeter of the channels)and I coat the whole top in a clearcoat of laquer, covering the exposed Al hole,that I sometimes touch up with a mixture of clearcoat and the dye(if its in a critical area......as in a hole used to mount the top to the base). .......Not really necessary, but sure makes it look nice when buffed up with some fine grit polishing compound. @UnLoaded You should really set one up in your shop. Its alot of fun, and really cheap. And this oxidation is very hard, but also very thin and brittle(for lack of a better word). So it DOES come off in most cases with barbs. The PROS have a way to get around this.....I suspect touching up the point of electrode contact somehow.Dunno

03-18-2003, 05:09 AM	#5
UnloadeD Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: MidWest USA Posts: 176	LR, thanks for correcting me. I wasn't considering the brittleness. It does sound like something fun to get into, but I really don't have a good space to do it. Also handling and disposing of the chemicals looks like it could be more than I'm willing to deal with. Biggest factor is lack of time. Maybe someday, but not in the near future. peace. unloaded

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