Hydor L30 vs. Mag Drive 3

psychofunk · 03-21-2003, 10:41 PM

I am still strugling with setting up my system (lack of funds, not balls or know how-even though I am lackig in the latter), and find myself with 2 water pumps (I physically have these). One is a Hydor L30 and the other is a Supreme Mag Drive 3. Which one would you guys use if you had to choose between the two (based on reliability, performance, whatever inside scoop/experience you have with the two). The rest of the system consists of a DD Maze 3, a res, a chevette heatercore (6x6x2 fin) and 2 1/2' of 1/2" ID Tygon. Thanks for any comments.

psychofunk · 03-22-2003, 02:06 AM

How about some science. I know you guys have these great formulas to figure this stuff out. I am confused as to the flow vs, heat added to system thing. The Hydor is supposed to flow sim to the Ehiem 1250 (don't know if that is true, seems too small) and uses 23w while the mag3 uses 35w. Taking into account that there is 2 1/2' of hose and a low rest (I think) WB & rad as well as res (similar to http://www.procooling.com/articles/h..._with_h2o1.php - but 1' long) and the flow vs watts how can I figure out which pump is better. Please help I can't trust myself because I come from the school of bigger is better so I wanna stick this big ass 10 pound mag3 in my case.

gmat · 03-22-2003, 02:47 AM

I confirm that the Hydor L30 flows like the 1250.
23W-35W that's a 12W difference, which will be handled easily by your heatercore. It's not likely to change your temps beyond temp. measurement error margins.
Mag3 is Danner, right ?

psychofunk · 03-22-2003, 03:02 AM

Yes the mag3 is a Danner. Question for you on the Hydor L30, would you say that it would flow more than the Danner at 2 1/2' and would the flow difference help cooling? Should I just choose based on what will fit (size wise) my setup best? BTW, thanks Gmat your always willing to help us lamen/newbs out, sometimes I get the feeling that some are too good to help out the newb but guys like you and Blackeagle and a few others put the community back in forums. Anyways thanks.

theetruscan · 03-22-2003, 03:13 AM

The length of your tubing doesn't solely determine your pressure drop.

There is some fixed "head" or pressure drop per x length of tubing at a given flow rate, plus the drop from your waterblocks, again at a given flow rate. I expect some of the people here know the equations but I don't. Sorry if you knew that.

gmat · 03-22-2003, 03:14 AM

For the flow, i'm not sure.
Check that:
http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=5068
You'll get the P-Q curve for the L30.
If you've got the curve for the mag3 you'll be able to compare.
Better flow = better cooling, but if the difference is like, less than 5%, don't bother with it -> choose the pump that fits best mechanically etc. (my L30 has been running strong with no leak for 2 years - but i had to change the rotor once).

Total 'equivalent water height' is not the length of your tubing. It's linked to tubing length, WB and rad restrictions, elbows and fittings. All add to that height. There are some good formulas to calculate that height (i'm too lazy to google right now, sorry)

You're welcome to ask (just avoid asking too many FAQs

)questions, this is what these forums are about IMHO.

psychofunk · 03-22-2003, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by gmat
For the flow, i'm not sure.
Check that:
http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=5068
You'll get the P-Q curve for the L30.
If you've got the curve for the mag3 you'll be able to compare.
Better flow = better cooling, but if the difference is like, less than 5%, don't bother with it -> choose the pump that fits best mechanically etc. (my L30 has been running strong with no leak for 2 years - but i had to change the rotor once).

Total 'equivalent water height' is not the length of your tubing. It's linked to tubing length, WB and rad restrictions, elbows and fittings. All add to that height. There are some good formulas to calculate that height (i'm too lazy to google right now, sorry)

You're welcome to ask (just avoid asking too many FAQs )questions, this is what these forums are about IMHO.

okay I checked out the article as well as other linked article (took me like 2 hours

, I feel asleep once

) I learned a bit and it seems that the mag3 is 22%@1'/33%@4' stronger. Of course this is based on their claims not hard evidence. If I google for the formula what am I looking for? My tubing is 2 1/2' of 1/2"ID, the WB is a DDMaze3 w/1/2" fittings, the rad is a chevette heatercore, no elbows and fittings are 1/2" drilled out (or at least they will be once I am all done or if I can fit this 1/2" tygon over some ~1/2" ID fittings). Is there some sort of database that says what I can estimate to figure?

gmat · 03-23-2003, 09:02 AM

Try 'hydraulic pressure drop' for elbows, turns, etc.
For the pressure drop of your waterblock, you can try a rough estimate based on Bill Adams articles (i'm not sure he has tested the Maze3 yet).
I'm currently mounting a new waterblock so i haven't got any time to dive into details sorry

There's plenty of material on the net - pressure drop in hoses is an old fluid mechanics problem. There are good manuals on that as well (try a public library).

If the mag3 has more flow for any pressure drop , then it's the pump you may keep.
You could aslo mount both pumps in series

Sounds mad but it has been done.

03-21-2003, 10:41 PM	#1
psychofunk Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 365	Hydor L30 vs. Mag Drive 3 I am still strugling with setting up my system (lack of funds, not balls or know how-even though I am lackig in the latter), and find myself with 2 water pumps (I physically have these). One is a Hydor L30 and the other is a Supreme Mag Drive 3. Which one would you guys use if you had to choose between the two (based on reliability, performance, whatever inside scoop/experience you have with the two). The rest of the system consists of a DD Maze 3, a res, a chevette heatercore (6x6x2 fin) and 2 1/2' of 1/2" ID Tygon. Thanks for any comments.

03-22-2003, 02:06 AM	#2
psychofunk Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 365	How about some science. I know you guys have these great formulas to figure this stuff out. I am confused as to the flow vs, heat added to system thing. The Hydor is supposed to flow sim to the Ehiem 1250 (don't know if that is true, seems too small) and uses 23w while the mag3 uses 35w. Taking into account that there is 2 1/2' of hose and a low rest (I think) WB & rad as well as res (similar to http://www.procooling.com/articles/h..._with_h2o1.php - but 1' long) and the flow vs watts how can I figure out which pump is better. Please help I can't trust myself because I come from the school of bigger is better so I wanna stick this big ass 10 pound mag3 in my case.

03-22-2003, 02:47 AM	#3
gmat Thermophile Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: France Posts: 1,221	I confirm that the Hydor L30 flows like the 1250. 23W-35W that's a 12W difference, which will be handled easily by your heatercore. It's not likely to change your temps beyond temp. measurement error margins. Mag3 is Danner, right ?

03-22-2003, 03:02 AM	#4
psychofunk Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 365	Yes the mag3 is a Danner. Question for you on the Hydor L30, would you say that it would flow more than the Danner at 2 1/2' and would the flow difference help cooling? Should I just choose based on what will fit (size wise) my setup best? BTW, thanks Gmat your always willing to help us lamen/newbs out, sometimes I get the feeling that some are too good to help out the newb but guys like you and Blackeagle and a few others put the community back in forums. Anyways thanks.

03-22-2003, 03:13 AM	#5
theetruscan Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: OR/CA/NY Posts: 81	The length of your tubing doesn't solely determine your pressure drop. There is some fixed "head" or pressure drop per x length of tubing at a given flow rate, plus the drop from your waterblocks, again at a given flow rate. I expect some of the people here know the equations but I don't. Sorry if you knew that.

03-22-2003, 03:14 AM	#6
gmat Thermophile Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: France Posts: 1,221	For the flow, i'm not sure. Check that: http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=5068 You'll get the P-Q curve for the L30. If you've got the curve for the mag3 you'll be able to compare. Better flow = better cooling, but if the difference is like, less than 5%, don't bother with it -> choose the pump that fits best mechanically etc. (my L30 has been running strong with no leak for 2 years - but i had to change the rotor once). Total 'equivalent water height' is not the length of your tubing. It's linked to tubing length, WB and rad restrictions, elbows and fittings. All add to that height. There are some good formulas to calculate that height (i'm too lazy to google right now, sorry) You're welcome to ask (just avoid asking too many FAQs )questions, this is what these forums are about IMHO.

03-23-2003, 09:02 AM	#8
gmat Thermophile Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: France Posts: 1,221	Try 'hydraulic pressure drop' for elbows, turns, etc. For the pressure drop of your waterblock, you can try a rough estimate based on Bill Adams articles (i'm not sure he has tested the Maze3 yet). I'm currently mounting a new waterblock so i haven't got any time to dive into details sorry There's plenty of material on the net - pressure drop in hoses is an old fluid mechanics problem. There are good manuals on that as well (try a public library). If the mag3 has more flow for any pressure drop , then it's the pump you may keep. You could aslo mount both pumps in series Sounds mad but it has been done.

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