New Block design...CONSTRUCTIVE COMMENTS ONLY!

Rayman2k2 · 03-22-2003, 01:41 PM

Basically, the water will be "jet-impigned" through a + shape funnel into the center of the block, then it will trave through the channels until it leaves from the outer-most channel, directly opposite of the entrance into the outer-channel.

Rayman2k2 · 03-22-2003, 01:43 PM

sorry for the crappy rendering, dont know how to get it clearer in Maya....also, the dimples will provide turbulence...(i bet you all knew that)

hara · 03-22-2003, 02:35 PM

How do you plan on milling the fins?

Rayman2k2 · 03-22-2003, 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by hara
How do you plan on milling the fins?

not to good w/ tools, to tell you the truth. But, I was thinking about giving the plans to someone who could mill. The mills, quite frankly, dont have to be round, they can be square, triangular, dodecahedronalur, it's quite alright. But thanx for bringing that to my attention, hera.

bigben2k · 03-22-2003, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Rayman2k2
sorry for the crappy rendering, dont know how to get it clearer in Maya....also, the dimples will provide turbulence...(i bet you all knew that)

Actually, that's a very nice render, but I wouldn't have guessed that those were dimples.

What baseplate thickness are you planing on having?

What would the outlet be like?

I think it'll be a very good block. You'll have to watch for the jet geometry, to make sure that the jet action isn't wasted by spreading over the top of a pin.

If I was you, I'd consider dropping the walls: I doubt that they would have much cooling effect, and I would think that you would want your jetted coolant to exit nicely and uniformaly.

Rayman2k2 · 03-22-2003, 05:01 PM

basically BigBen, the pins are 3/4 the height of the walls. I thought about the impignment being lost over the middle pin, that is why the pins were shortened. One option I have is to lower the walls to the height of the pins, cut a little bit off the pins, and get rid of the center pin. Baseplate thickness is 2.5mm to 3mm. The dimples will be 1mm deep. Inlet and outlet will be both 1/2". And what exactly do you mean about "dropping the walls"?

Rayman2k2 · 03-22-2003, 05:18 PM

new rendering, new shaders:

Rayman2k2 · 03-22-2003, 05:18 PM

oooo....even worse

JFettig · 03-23-2003, 07:07 AM

alright, that looks like a nice design,

only things I would change are....

the pins outside the center circle arent really needed. and same with the dimples. maybe you could get rid of one of the channels so it has higher flow.
just the inner casm and the outter channel.

bigben2k · 03-23-2003, 08:35 AM

"drop the walls" = forget about having walls.

Looking forward to results.

Rayman2k2 · 03-23-2003, 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
"drop the walls" = forget about having walls.

Looking forward to results.

basically, no walls in the block, meaning no channels? sorry bud, but i'm kinda having a hard time understanding this

:shrug:

bigben2k · 03-23-2003, 11:10 AM

That's correct, just forget about having walls/channels.

The reason I mention it, is because these walls actually act as fins, and as such, would help spread the heat upwards from the baseplate.

But because this wall/channel is so far away from the core, its effectiveness would be next to null, as a fin, so it would only help direct flow.

In this case, you probably don't want to direct the flow, or more specifically, restrict the flow, even if it's just a little bit.

It would also make the construction more complex, and IMO (in my opinion), it's just not worth the effort.

Refer to Volenti's pin fin block: he's getting excellent results. Even Hoot (form OC) is getting excellent results.

You're headed in the right direction. I'm just proposing that you keep it simple. It's really up to you.

Balinju · 03-23-2003, 11:20 AM

instead of dropping all the walls, i would suggest to keep only the inner wall, ie the one over the core.
maybe the outer wall would be effective as well, it could be used to direct the water to only 1 outlet instead of 2

but i would not opt for this option

Rayman2k2 · 03-23-2003, 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
That's correct, just forget about having walls/channels.

The reason I mention it, is because these walls actually act as fins, and as such, would help spread the heat upwards from the baseplate.

But because this wall/channel is so far away from the core, its effectiveness would be next to null, as a fin, so it would only help direct flow.

In this case, you probably don't want to direct the flow, or more specifically, restrict the flow, even if it's just a little bit.

It would also make the construction more complex, and IMO (in my opinion), it's just not worth the effort.

Refer to Volenti's pin fin block: he's getting excellent results. Even Hoot (form OC) is getting excellent results.

You're headed in the right direction. I'm just proposing that you keep it simple. It's really up to you.

yeah, that was what i thought you meant, just wanted to be sure

i have a new plan which i will post a little later

GTA · 03-23-2003, 05:25 PM

Already made that block

well, apart from the dimples.

Here's the render I did :

The finished block ( I lost the pic of the inside, will try and find it though )

It performs very well, although it benefits very much from a powerful pump, I use an Eheim 1260 ( 2200 l/h ) I get temps about 4 degrees higher than a WW.

To make the pins, try getting some copper roofing nails and trimming them down to about 15mm, and trimming the heads to pack them closer. I managed to get about 50 pins into my block, about 10 over the core.

I fluxed the pins, balanced them in place and soldered them on. I reckon you could possibly drop another degree if you didn't have the solder join between the copper base and the pins.

JFettig · 03-23-2003, 09:17 PM

ben, without the walls, the water would go from inlet strait to outlet, kinda like the older swiftech blocks do.

leave the inner wall, take out the outer wall and a few of those pins, only leave the pins in the center, add a few more in the center I would think, The heat isnt gonna travel much past the center pins.

Ben, If the heat wants to travel up the wall, LET IT, otherwize were does it travel? it doesnt. it get stuck and gets hotter.... what you would rather do is get rid of the heat before it can travel up the wall, The main reason for the walls in this block design is to direct flow, Without them the flow would do like I already said, go strait to the outlet.

-EDIT- also, if your using 1/2inch tubing and 3/4OD tubing, youll have a REALLY hard time getting the tubing on the barbs... take that into consideration, When I design a block, I draw in the barbs and the tubing together, and then leave a little room(streaches out over the barb)

Rayman2k2 · 03-24-2003, 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by GTA
Already made that block well, apart from the dimples.

Here's the render I did :

The finished block ( I lost the pic of the inside, will try and find it though )

It performs very well, although it benefits very much from a powerful pump, I use an Eheim 1260 ( 2200 l/h ) I get temps about 4 degrees higher than a WW.

To make the pins, try getting some copper roofing nails and trimming them down to about 15mm, and trimming the heads to pack them closer. I managed to get about 50 pins into my block, about 10 over the core.

I fluxed the pins, balanced them in place and soldered them on. I reckon you could possibly drop another degree if you didn't have the solder join between the copper base and the pins.

jeezzzus. What did you use to make the 3d pic? I dont know why, but my pics are coming out like crap compared to that!

aitor · 03-24-2003, 11:35 PM

Rayman2k2 my English is very limited, but he looks here:
http://www.arkania.org/~jordimarch/article.php?sid=63

GTA · 03-25-2003, 10:29 AM

A mate of mine did the render, IIRC its done in Maya.

03-22-2003, 01:41 PM	#1
Rayman2k2 Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Annapolis, MD Posts: 190	New Block design...CONSTRUCTIVE COMMENTS ONLY! Basically, the water will be "jet-impigned" through a + shape funnel into the center of the block, then it will trave through the channels until it leaves from the outer-most channel, directly opposite of the entrance into the outer-channel. __________________ -Insert Signature Here-

03-22-2003, 01:43 PM	#2
Rayman2k2 Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Annapolis, MD Posts: 190	sorry for the crappy rendering, dont know how to get it clearer in Maya....also, the dimples will provide turbulence...(i bet you all knew that) __________________ -Insert Signature Here-

03-22-2003, 02:35 PM	#3
hara Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Malta, Mediterranean Posts: 662	How do you plan on milling the fins? __________________ - Every great HD crash day is the day before back-up day. - My Past System - "Better to reign in Hell than serve in Heaven." - Milton, Paradise Lost. - FMZ

03-22-2003, 05:01 PM	#6
Rayman2k2 Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Annapolis, MD Posts: 190	basically BigBen, the pins are 3/4 the height of the walls. I thought about the impignment being lost over the middle pin, that is why the pins were shortened. One option I have is to lower the walls to the height of the pins, cut a little bit off the pins, and get rid of the center pin. Baseplate thickness is 2.5mm to 3mm. The dimples will be 1mm deep. Inlet and outlet will be both 1/2". And what exactly do you mean about "dropping the walls"? __________________ -Insert Signature Here-

03-22-2003, 05:18 PM	#7
Rayman2k2 Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Annapolis, MD Posts: 190	new rendering, new shaders: __________________ -Insert Signature Here-

03-22-2003, 05:18 PM	#8
Rayman2k2 Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Annapolis, MD Posts: 190	oooo....even worse __________________ -Insert Signature Here-

03-23-2003, 07:07 AM	#9
JFettig Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND Posts: 504	alright, that looks like a nice design, only things I would change are.... the pins outside the center circle arent really needed. and same with the dimples. maybe you could get rid of one of the channels so it has higher flow. just the inner casm and the outter channel.

03-23-2003, 08:35 AM	#10
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	"drop the walls" = forget about having walls. Looking forward to results. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

03-23-2003, 11:10 AM	#12
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	That's correct, just forget about having walls/channels. The reason I mention it, is because these walls actually act as fins, and as such, would help spread the heat upwards from the baseplate. But because this wall/channel is so far away from the core, its effectiveness would be next to null, as a fin, so it would only help direct flow. In this case, you probably don't want to direct the flow, or more specifically, restrict the flow, even if it's just a little bit. It would also make the construction more complex, and IMO (in my opinion), it's just not worth the effort. Refer to Volenti's pin fin block: he's getting excellent results. Even Hoot (form OC) is getting excellent results. You're headed in the right direction. I'm just proposing that you keep it simple. It's really up to you. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

03-23-2003, 11:20 AM	#13
Balinju Cooling Savant Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Malta Posts: 495	instead of dropping all the walls, i would suggest to keep only the inner wall, ie the one over the core. maybe the outer wall would be effective as well, it could be used to direct the water to only 1 outlet instead of 2 but i would not opt for this option Last edited by Balinju; 03-23-2003 at 11:44 AM.

03-23-2003, 05:25 PM	#15
GTA Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: UK - Bristol Posts: 134	Already made that block well, apart from the dimples. Here's the render I did : The finished block ( I lost the pic of the inside, will try and find it though ) It performs very well, although it benefits very much from a powerful pump, I use an Eheim 1260 ( 2200 l/h ) I get temps about 4 degrees higher than a WW. To make the pins, try getting some copper roofing nails and trimming them down to about 15mm, and trimming the heads to pack them closer. I managed to get about 50 pins into my block, about 10 over the core. I fluxed the pins, balanced them in place and soldered them on. I reckon you could possibly drop another degree if you didn't have the solder join between the copper base and the pins.

03-23-2003, 09:17 PM	#16
JFettig Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND Posts: 504	ben, without the walls, the water would go from inlet strait to outlet, kinda like the older swiftech blocks do. leave the inner wall, take out the outer wall and a few of those pins, only leave the pins in the center, add a few more in the center I would think, The heat isnt gonna travel much past the center pins. Ben, If the heat wants to travel up the wall, LET IT, otherwize were does it travel? it doesnt. it get stuck and gets hotter.... what you would rather do is get rid of the heat before it can travel up the wall, The main reason for the walls in this block design is to direct flow, Without them the flow would do like I already said, go strait to the outlet. -EDIT- also, if your using 1/2inch tubing and 3/4OD tubing, youll have a REALLY hard time getting the tubing on the barbs... take that into consideration, When I design a block, I draw in the barbs and the tubing together, and then leave a little room(streaches out over the barb)

03-24-2003, 11:35 PM	#18
aitor Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Buenos Aires-Argentina Posts: 19	Rayman2k2 my English is very limited, but he looks here: http://www.arkania.org/~jordimarch/article.php?sid=63 __________________ Barton2500+@2500(200x12,5/1,87v) Abit NF7S Radeon9600Pro RL made in home

03-25-2003, 10:29 AM	#19
GTA Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: UK - Bristol Posts: 134	A mate of mine did the render, IIRC its done in Maya.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)