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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it

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Unread 04-28-2003, 01:08 PM   #1
CheeseBall
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Default Press-fitting hose barbs

OK, I'm almost done w/ my waterblock. I am working on the top piece, and in the top piece includes a nozzle similar to the one on the whitewater. I can't tap and thread the barb in on the center inlet because the tap is tappered (and I can't tap all the way through the top piece or else I wouldn't have a ny metal left for the nozzle). So I am considering this: drilling a 1/2 hole part way through, then using a 9/16 (or 5/8 or whatever) endmill to square things up, going the right depth to leave me enough metal for the nozzle. Then figuring out the exact size of my hole (probably using pins), then machining my hose barb to the perfect size so I can press fit it in.

Now I could press fit it in w/ appoxy, nothing at all, or press fit it then solder it. What do you think? Or I 'spose I could just solder it on w/ no press-fitting, but that's no fun.

What are your suggestions?

Thanks for your smartness,
Bryan
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Unread 04-28-2003, 01:33 PM   #2
utabintarbo
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Default Re: Press-fitting hose barbs

Quote:
Originally posted by CheeseBall
...

Now I could press fit it in w/ appoxy, nothing at all, or press fit it then solder it. What do you think? Or I 'spose I could just solder it on w/ no press-fitting, but that's no fun.

What are your suggestions?

...
File off the threads and solder it in. No fun, perhaps, but no leaks either!

Bob
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Unread 04-28-2003, 01:47 PM   #3
nOv1c3
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I would try a bottoming Tap


The threads on a bottom tap are stright no taper lets you tap blind holes
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Unread 04-28-2003, 04:39 PM   #4
CheeseBall
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I don't want to buy another tap. And why file off the threads when I can machine them off w/ a lathe ? Then I think I will solder it in.
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Unread 04-28-2003, 11:07 PM   #5
LiquidRulez
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Why dont you...
a)go with a piece of stock(the top) thick enough to accomodate the 0.394488" depth of the 1/4 inch NPT thread or the 0.5343" depth of a 1/2 inch NPT, and the nozzle material thickness.

OR

B)make a thin nozzle plate, and a thick enough top , so that you can accomodate the fitting depth(which ever you are using),Make them 2 seperate peices as the WW.
This is by far the best ,and easiest method...... depending on the type of equipment you have at your disposal.

As I see that these are your ONLY options.


Maybe, next time. You can supply a picture or something, to best describe what you are asking help for...Just a suggestion

LR
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Last edited by LiquidRulez; 04-29-2003 at 01:11 AM.
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Unread 04-29-2003, 12:31 AM   #6
CheeseBall
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I don't quite under stand A) and I don't see the point of making the whole block in 3 pieces.

Anyways, too late, it's done. I'll try and describe it for ya (pictures on the way, some day). My .04 fins are 3/8" high, and to slit them w/ a slitting saw I had to make the walls on the bottom piece only 1/4" high (so my slitting saw didn't cut into the walls). So I put an oval on my top piece (matching the one on the bottom minus the fins). Then in the center there is another oval (on the opposite axis) to act as a nozzle (not a great one but something). Then from the top of the block I drilled w/ 1/2" (not all the way of course), then squared it up w/ a 23/32" endmill, then machined a 1/2" NPT hose barb to fit tightly. Now I just need to finish up the rest of the block, press fit 'em in, and solder. Done and no leakage. I'm hoping the height of my 9 fins will be a real benafit.
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