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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
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#1 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Colorado
Posts: 176
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I am wondering how many of you guys have made your own waterblock(s). But don't want to post any pictures or info on it (either because it top secret and YOUR design only, or maybe your ashamed of it... lol).
Anyways if you don't mind saying you have a block that you don't want anyone to see (and copy) or whatever the reason is, please post. Thanks, Bryan |
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#2 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Germany
Posts: 9
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Yes.
Be patient and have fun, flip |
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#3 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Malta, Mediterranean
Posts: 662
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Yeah, I see a lot of threads asking for help and then never see the actual block
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#4 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 44
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I think that alot of people ask for help, thinking they will be able to build something that works incredibly well using basic tools, and then either loose interest or go for something simpler that they don't feel is worth posting. I personally never posted my blocks as actual threads (I've put pics of one in a few other threads) as I don't see the point, it isn't anything special or original
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#5 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Malta
Posts: 495
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![]() But i agree with you when you said that usually they find it difficult and loose interest and do nothing or do something more simple and post nothing. If this would happen to my while doing my block, i would certainly say, "I had to stop milling it because i found difficilties here ...". It is also possible that someone actually can help you solve you problem ![]() Remember that having more than one opinion is always nice
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So the bullet proof vest aint a $hit when d laser is pointed to your head Kid |
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#6 |
CNC Beyatch
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards
Posts: 721
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Something else you have to remember, is that a vast majority of the cad drawings we see come thrue here, never make it into production. It is 1000 % easy to draw it, then it is to make it. And some people just enjoy the drawing part. Which is not entirly a bad thing. Because some of us that actually make these things get ideas from other people. I know and totally understand that not everyone can drop a couple grand on a machine (CNC or Manual)
So guys dont stop the cad work. I love seeing a beautifully drawn block. Its art.
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Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808 |
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#7 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 102
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i need help with solidworks....
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#8 |
Been /.'d... have you?
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Moscow, ID
Posts: 1,986
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I've been kicking over a general design here and there for over six months and it'll be another 3-4 before I can mill my first one. Some people just look ahead. In my case, I just want to make sure I'm covering all of my bases before I waste materials. For example, in my first revision I would have dumped coolant onto the CPU packaging due to a sealing flaw ... it's a good thing that was caught. Sometimes people like to make sure they're going to the mill with the best design possible rather than throwing meat onto the water and hoping to get a ham sandwich in return (the quick make/test/revise/test/revise/ad infinitum method). Some of the best designs out there were the products of lots of research before the first cut was ever made.
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#9 |
CNC Beyatch
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards
Posts: 721
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Air...............
Have you ever thought about using wood as a test material? Sometimes you cannot find flaws until after cuts have been made. Wood, plastic and machinable wax are good for proto-typing.....
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Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808 |
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#10 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Spring Hill, FL
Posts: 169
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Fixitt, where can you get that wax for proto-typing?
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#11 |
Been /.'d... have you?
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Moscow, ID
Posts: 1,986
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My restriction is going to be time on the CNC machinery. I'm only going to have a couple shots at this, so I have to make sure it is right the first time.
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#12 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sweden
Posts: 318
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Hmm...I love to watch waterblocks. It's art as fixittt said, either it is drawings or real ones. Look at me. My blocks ain't performers, neither newthinkers. But I know that there is peoples out there that enjoy those pics anyways...
Post more pics! ![]() |
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#13 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: UK - Bristol
Posts: 134
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I've got a sort of hidden block in the making, its not a terribly big secret, basically circular microchannels on a lathe.
I've been working on the design for a while, its main strength, and one of the main things I was looking for, is adaptability, rather than imense performance. In its current form, with a change of top plate to get the mounting holes right, the same base can be used for a CPU, GFX card or NB. The company i've hired to look into its construction were testing their lathing abilities today on some scrap copper. The design called for 1mm wide channels 6mm deep, and they were unsure of how possible this was ( not very by their early thoughts ) but they're going to make the deepest, thinnest channels they can with off the shelf tools, and then let me know tommorow. The idea is, once I know what they can do, I can change the design accordingly, and they're going to make me a steel prototype ( easier to machine apparantly, doesn't gunk up the tools as they're being used like copper can ) This should cost me about £50 ( about $80 ). If I'm happy with the looks of it in steel, a full prototype with o-ring and screws will set me back another £50 + about the same again for 3 different top and middle plate designs. ( the idea is that I run some quick tests on each configuration, and pick the best one ) Total cost to get me one perfect block is going to be in the region of £250, not an amount to be dismissed out of hand. But it will be my design, and will give me an enormous amount of pleasure to have gone through a design process from start to finish, and have something to be proud of at the end. I love coming here to look at what people have come up with, even if I am a bit of a lurker. I think its fantastic that we're all thinking so much. |
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#14 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Malta
Posts: 495
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so no posts of your block gta??? we would like to see what you're doing
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So the bullet proof vest aint a $hit when d laser is pointed to your head Kid |
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#15 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: UK - Bristol
Posts: 134
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I reckon you'd laugh
![]() I did post on it here, a slightly older version of the design, although the principle is the same, but the middle plate is different now. The original thread didn't get much attention to be honest, but I still think its a good idea. At the very least, a way of creating 1mm microchannels in a much easier and cheaper way. Old render of the base ![]() Its essentially the same as this now, but with only 8 grooves, 1mm wide 4mm deep. The main reason for its adapatability is the fact that the outer groove is only 32mm accross. Surface area comes in at about 24cm^2, and by my calculations, is a hell of lot less restrictive than it looks. Eg. the total cross section of all the channels where the water come in is only 15% less than a 12mm ID pipe. Should have the prototype of this done in a couple of weeks, worst case scenario. |
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#16 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Malta
Posts: 495
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nice design, how you are designing the inlet geometry?? a + shaped impingement?
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So the bullet proof vest aint a $hit when d laser is pointed to your head Kid |
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#17 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: UK - Bristol
Posts: 134
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Thats one of the things I will be testing.
Ideally, I want one in one out, which is possible on this block. I also have a 1 in one out with jet impingment, 1-in 2-out with jet, and 2 in 2 out. I honestly don't know which way is going to work the best, instinct says 1 in 2 out, but if the difference is very marginal, i'd take a performance drop for the convenience of a single outlet. |
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#18 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Sweden, Skovde
Posts: 101
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I'm working on the design on my first block. Some research has gone in to this but at the final stage it will all come down to testing anyway. No teories are perfect when it comes to Practics...
U'll see it when its done nomatter how it will work out. Maybe I can show you how a block shuldn't be made ![]() |
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#19 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,538
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I have a new CPU block coming (maybe even later today), although it's not totally original. A mix of ideas (others and mine) splashed together and refined into what I think will work well.
I also have a CPU/GPU/TEC block that's nearing completion. Testing is very positive, with it performing within 2C of the White Water for straight CPU use (despite losing the central jet impingement) through careful balancing of the base-plate thickness, and in superficial TEC tests has provided the lowest uninsulated unloaded cold-plate temperatures of ANY block I've tried (using a 172W 40x40mm peltier). A lot more testing to conduct on this front though. Here are some piccies of the semi-final prototype. The final block will have polycarb on top as the copper topped block is too heavy (~550g). The block is 50x48x27mm. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#20 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: UK - Bristol
Posts: 134
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Cathar, quick questions on your block i forgot to ask over at oc.com.au.
The oring on your GPU block appears to sit in an octagonal groove, following the lines that form the outline around the channels. 1. Why have you not gone for a circulat groove? I assume space restrictions. 2. Does the fact that the o-ring doesn't fit perfectly into the groove affect its ability to seal the block? Again, I assume not, as you've been testing it. |
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#21 | |
Thermophile
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,538
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2) It doesn't affect its ability to seal. When the plates are bolted together the O-ring squishes and completely fills any visible gaps. The O-ring is 3/32" (2.4mm) in diameter and sits proud of the groove by a fair bit. The block seals extremely tightly. |
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#22 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Annapolis, MD
Posts: 190
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yes....
that is all i will say.
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#23 |
CNC Beyatch
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards
Posts: 721
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man I love to see machining marks. All the polishing is pretty and all, but to be able to tell the tools used and the steps takin, I just love it!
Thanks for sharing Cathar
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Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808 |
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#24 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: palo alto, CA
Posts: 164
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any good deals on orings lately. I have been using high temp RTV silicone gasket by permatex:
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/rodi/per81160.html http://www.permatex.com/products/ind...icone%20Gasket what do you guys think about that? Seems to be working great for me and all you have to do is wipe off the exess. well here is some stuff i am working on: http://brn.stanford.edu/dima/wbprototype/ |
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#25 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: UK - Bristol
Posts: 134
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well, further to what I posted before, this is the first look at the sort of thing being made. This was a simple test conducted at the workshop to see what the machinist could make.
![]() It turns out that they're pretty good ![]() The real thing should be done by next weekend. The final design is the same outside circle width, but has 3 more channels than this test. It'll also obviously have the o-ring and tapped holes ( cheers to everyone who helped with that bit ) What do you reckon? Small isn't it. |
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