Full Size Radiator pump reccomendation

[arcsylver]

Yes that's right.

I am using a coppe rradiator from a 1957 Chevy in my new watercooling project.

It will be going into a 4 foot tall server rackmount cabinet and have a rackmount blower for the fan.

What I need to know is what pump GPH would be suggested for such a hug radiator?

I have been looking at the hydor L30.

I plan to have the Dangerden RBX block as well as thier Maze 4 GPU block on one computer and a second loop using an older innovatech WB (the one in my sig) on a ssocket 370 Celeron and a second Maze 4 GPU on the vid card.

This seup will be to cool two computers, one of which will be a mildly overclocked 2.8E Prescott. The other is a 1 Gig Celeron non overclocked.

[kaotic504]

a full sized radiator? or a full heatcore. cuz a full sized radiator is HUGE. i know a hydror L30 wouldn't work. do you have any idea how big a car's waterpump is. well actually, it's not that big. but still. i have no idea if you're going for a car's radiator. do you have some specs on it? i would think you'd just go for a heater core.

[Blackeagle]

A radiator from a car would tempt me to the Iwaki MD30rlzt which is a equally huge pump, by water cooling standards, still not the equal of a cars pump for volume however.

Like the first poster I guess I don't understand the reasoning behind such a outlandishly oversized rad.

One thing is sure, ambient temps of the water won't be much of any problem with that monster. You could run multiple TECs or whaterver you want really on those to boards, won't matter with a rad that large.

And I agree with kaotic on another point he made, the Hydor pump is a non starter, would make the huge rad pointless.

[bigben2k]

The huge rad comes in handy, because you can reduce the airflow and consequently the noise. Heck one might even be able to run those two loops without any fan, if it's setup right!


I wouldn't expect much of a pressure drop from a radiator, given the 1 1/2 to 2" hose typically used, but it's going to depend on the flow rate. The flow rate is something that has to be decided, in order to select a pump.

In the mean time, you can run a manometer and see what kind of pressure drop that rad would give, at various flow rates (another bucket test?!?). It'll be very rough, but should easily put you in the ballpark, for pump selection.

Once you have the pressure drops of all the blocks and the rad, you can start looking at some pumps and see if they'll give you the kind of flow rate that you want.

[Cyco-Dude]

also, Airspirit's watercooled project might be of some interest to you if you have not read it yet. he did basically the same thing you are trying to do.

[arcsylver]

Well I aready have therad and it is modifiedd by removing the stock hoses and cap locations and insead there is now 1/2 inch copper pipe one for the top and one for the bottom.

And yes I meant radiator as in the thing that sits in the front of the car and coold the engine.


Looks like I better start looking for a pump that can flow more like 1000GPH or better I guess then.

The reason for the huge radiator is I plane to have a large res as well and submerged pumps for each coolant loop that pump throught the system then the rad finaly dumping back into the resivior when done.

Basically a stand alone watercooling loop.

I have access to three server cabinets. one 4 foot tall for my computers, one 2 footer that I plan to house the watercooling rig in and another 2 footer that is shallower.

I will be cooling 2 computers at first ne of which will be my OC experimentation and gaming rig running a 2.8e Prescott P4, a FX 5700 Gainward vid card andan ASUS P4P800-E Deluxe mobo. I will b=probably cool the CPU GPU and NB in this rig and then go from there

The other in the rig in my signature that will be transplanted. It is non overclocked but I want to cool it s well and then later on I may build me an AMD rig as well. The primary thing I am concerned about is adequate flow through the waterblocks and bat to the radiator. Gravity can actually draw the water down the radiator and then the pumps can pull the water into the res from the outlet at the bottom of the rad.

[arcsylver]

Another option I have considered is multiple pumps.

Using Hydor L30's one per cooling loop that each return to the top of the radiator via thier own separate cooling loop and then pass through the radiator to the single outlet at the bottm this should create enough cooling to keep multiple computers nice and cool.

It should also not hinder the pumps since they would not really be fighting each other except at the radiator and gravity would lessen this effect since the radiator is a paralell pass design I could have three cooling loops easily with more a simple hole and tap away by adding another 1/2" barb connection to the radiator.

[kaotic504]

i just had an idea, although this would be overkill. i remember my old pool had a pump. that can probably do it. looks like a really BIG verison of the switech pump. but i'm sure that can pump enough. so i'm sure a small pool pump will work for those above ground pools. good thing is they use a home outlet and you can probably find many sizes.

[arcsylver]

FYI this radiator is the same radiator from this thread I posted a few months back but due to money restrictions I never got this project off the ground. the time has come to make it a reality

http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=7975

[AntiBling]

I would use two seperate pumps and plumbing loops, one for each PC, sharing the radiator. The power of the pumps needed depends in part on how far vertically the PCs are seperated from the radiator. Like BB2K said, the radiator is not going to be what restricts the pumps in this type of setup, its the blocks and the vertical distance.

[arcsylver]

That's the beauty of this setup I have planned.

I have sitting in my room at the moment a server rackmount cabinet that this will be put into.

I will be putting the two computers into standard Rackmount enclosures like a 4U.

I have also acquired a rackmount blower fan unit that will provide the airflow through this radiator.

The Radiator will bemounted in the back panel of this cabinet and I will make a duct for the output of the blower unit to the radiator to direct the airflow.


I already planned for 2 inlets and outlets to be put into the radiator. I have already removed the stock huge water pipes and replaced them with copper tubing with shut off valves for one set of inlet/outlet. I still need to install the second set however.

I have pics on that thread I posted ages ago that show the radiator and two of the availible cabinets. I plan to use the larger of the two now instead of making this a two cabinet system.

[HammerSandwich]

I must admit that I've never used a '57 Chevy radiator, but I simply cannot imagine why it would demand a huge pump. The flow resistance of that beast must be lower than a Caprice core's - look at all the parallel channels. A couple GPM shouldn't stress that too much.

[guandi]

*cracks knuckles* Now this is my kind of project.

I have done similar myself, i have used engine rads out of Ford Fiesta's, Toyota Hi-Aces, Mercedes Sprinters and even a Volvo FH16 (thats a 40ton truck). just for the hell of it really.

I have used an Eheim 1260 for the Ford and Toyota, and Dual 1260's for the Merc and Volvo just so the head was good enough to get from my garden to my room. It was originally for silence, but eventually for pure overkill.

A Eheim 1260 should be sufficent for 2 loops only if they are identical, if the loops are different i suggest a Eheim 1250 on each.

Hydor pumps are a no-no in this sort of system, for some reason they fail on me all too often.

However....

If you plan on using a multi-loop, a loop for each system and a cooling loop, you may need 2 1250's and one 1260.

[arcsylver]

well I plan to have to seperate cooling loops I.E. one loop for each computer with a common radiator, namely the car rad.

I plan to have two inlets and two outlets on the rad one for each loop

I will run the loop from the radiator to the CPU block and then the GPU and northbridge.

In the P4 rig I will be using the dual outputs of the DD RBX block to got seperately to the GPU and NB then recombine them either using a y fitting or possibly with a third connection at the radiator directly.

the second computer will have a serial set of blocks CPU/GPU/NB then return to the radiator.

I am thinking two pumps should do the trick nicely I just need an idea of what GPH / Head of pump I should get for the loops. Obviously overkill is an option here as long as it doesnt cause things to burst due to overpressure.

[Gooserider]

I would not expect you to need a pump any different than the one you would use for a comparable loop using a heatercore. The concern is the volume of coolant through the blocks, not the volume the rad can pass.

If I were building something like this I would probably put a small / medium pump, like an Eheim 1250 or a Danner Mag 3 on each loop, and use the rad bottom tank as the input to each pump via a thick hose. Either skip the res entirely, or have the loops dump into the res and have that feed into the top of the rad. I wouldn't expect there to be enough flow resistance on the rad to be noticeable at any flow rate you would get with a WC pump. (Not scientific, but back when I used to work at a gas station, even with a garden hose it was hard to get enough flow to over flow a rad when flushing it.)

Gooserider

[prb123]

A bit off topic...but what vehicles have copper radiators?

[Gooserider]

Most older cars do, or actually I should say that they have copper / brass radiators (copper and brass are so close there is no effective corrosion problem between them) which amounts to the same thing.

You would have to check specs to be sure, but I suspect one of the easiest ways to predict which material a car would use is to look at the engine block. Cast iron block cars will tend to have copper/brass radiators, aluminum block cars will tend to have aluminum rads.

Gooserider