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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
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#1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Oregon
Posts: 29
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So - I was just thinking - is it better to have a really smooth or a really rough or somewhere in between surface on the inside of a block? I've heard that you want turbulence - so it seems that rough would be good. But most of the blocks I've seen look rather smooth on the inside.
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#2 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Surrey BC
Posts: 42
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A rough surface will increase the turbulence, which is good. Most blocks are machined, and so they're smooth. (At least that's what I've heard)
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#3 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Malta, Mediterranean
Posts: 662
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The question is: How much difference does it make?
![]() Hard to measure.
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#4 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Oregon
Posts: 29
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Well then - why not give it a jagged surface? I mean - give it perhaps a sawtooth sort of surface - and then go over it with a coarse grit sandpaper. Would that be an improvement?
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#5 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Malta
Posts: 495
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my suggestion is that a rough surface produced a hardly noticible turbulance. if you need a good anoumt of turbulance inside you block, you will need to implement something else like pins or dimplets or some kind of fins.
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#6 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Sweden, Skovde
Posts: 101
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The golfball aproach? That one is quite easy anyway. just drill shallow holes all over the block...
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#7 |
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
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This is a tricky question.
Because of the relatively low flow rates we use, there's not much added flow restriction from the blasted surface. On the cooling side though, you're looking at trapped molecules of water, but also an increased surface area (can increase by 50%, from perfectly flat, but that's theoretical, not practical). I suspect it doesn't make much difference, if any. It sure looks nice though! |
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#8 |
Put up or Shut Up
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 6,506
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The better blocks that have been out don't have room for any roughening of the surface. Not like you can really sand the inside of a White Water to effectivly. BUT I do have a couple sand blasters at work that would add a lot of tiny dimples to anything. it might eat those thin fins though. I was thinking about sand blasting my REV. 4.0 but I doubt the difference could be measured.
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#9 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: in my chair
Posts: 574
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Ok. There is a heat layer over the metal that is the radiated heat. The barrier is say... 1-2 mm. If you have water moving over this barrier, you are carrying the heat away. If you have a bumpy surface, say a sand blasting where the surface is not 1mm varience, then your heat barrier is not effected and you could call the surface change cosmetic. If the surface deformity extends in a significant way to bring this heat barrier out into a faster flow of the water, or increase surface to water heat transfer area, then you have an advantage. I look at hara's dimple block, jaydee's dimples in his avatar, or the microchannel. On those examples you have a large enough deformity to add to heat->water exchange. The sandpaper approach or sand blasting, doesn't do jack from my understanding.
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#10 | |
Put up or Shut Up
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 6,506
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![]() Quote:
![]() ![]() My theory on this was to add as much surface area as possible over the core in which would be used and not to add any excess surface area that wouldn't be used either by length, width, or higth. It seemed to have worked well. |
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#11 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Malta
Posts: 495
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