Sealing

PhoenixKnights · 08-09-2003, 10:13 PM

Hey guys when you build a water cooling system what do you recommend to seal it up so you won't have to worry about it leaking till you need to buy a new computer or whatever? silicone? Or perhaps epoxy or something else?

Zhentar · 08-09-2003, 10:35 PM

well, my system hasn't leaked yet and its just well tightened barbs and well tightend screw clamps. You really don't need to seal it completely.

AXDA2600DKV3D · 08-09-2003, 10:37 PM

u can do it like a plumber and use that tape on the screw spots (i forget the name...)

winewood · 08-09-2003, 10:42 PM

tephlon tape. .88 cents a roll.

AXDA2600DKV3D · 08-09-2003, 10:46 PM

i mean i forget the name of that part of the screws/bolts that bite down into the material

part with the spirals
the screw part...

JCYC5 · 08-09-2003, 10:49 PM

Thread?

PhoenixKnights · 08-09-2003, 10:49 PM

I still worry about leaking so since I figgure I'll get a really good cooling system out of this I don't care if it's permanent or not I just want to make sure my system doesn't leak.

AXDA2600DKV3D · 08-09-2003, 11:18 PM

thats it, the thread

thanks!
memory leak lol

BrianW · 08-10-2003, 12:23 AM

Pheonix it may very well be necessary to take your warecooling rig apart. You may develop biological growth, or you may need to relocate an item in your loop.

You should be more specific as to what you want to seal. If you are talking about tubes, nipples, and waterblocks, you do not need to seal. If you are talking about NPT thread to thread connections you do not need to seal, but you can use teflon tape to lubricate the mating, nad get a deeper penetration. (Sounds rather kinky...)

BrianW

winewood · 08-10-2003, 02:17 AM

PheonixKnights, first just build a setup. You will quickly see what holds and what doesn't. Just assemble it outside the case and run it for at least 20 min. All these questions will quickly be a mute point I assure yo.

PhoenixKnights · 08-10-2003, 09:11 PM

well the only part I am going to have inside of the case is the water block and the tubes that attach it to the radiator and pump which will be above my case in a tool box or something with it's own seperate power supply. and as this is my first water cooling construction I'm just afraid that I might at some point accidently fubar it and have a leak develop to the point where something like a processor or important part of motherboard goes zap and dies because of the water.

At the same time I don't want to do much maintence on the water cooler because I'm lazy I supppose.

Also I'm going to add wetter water or Zerex to the distilled water I'll have running through it to keep it bilogical free corosion free and working at top efficency. I'm going to be using a MCW5000-P water block, a Danner Mag Drive 3 pump, a brand new ford heater core as the radiator, and then a reservior which I'll make out of like a pipe, or some tuperware. And then place it all in a box above the computer except for the mcw5000-P which will be of course on the cpu with tubs going to it.

Also I plan to hopefully make it so I can shut off the water flow in case I want to detach the system and move it for a lan party or something.

BrianW · 08-10-2003, 09:46 PM

Well an additive will breakdown into it's component parts with time. You can not have a maintenance free setup. Well I have not flushed mine for over 18 months, but is due for one bad....

BrianW

PhoenixKnights · 08-10-2003, 10:12 PM

I think I can handle once a year, do you have a recommendation on which one to use? wetter water or Zerex? And other than draining and refilling the system is there anything else you need to do as maintainence?

BrianW · 08-10-2003, 11:32 PM

Measure 3 times, cut once.....

Always wear Safety Goggles....

Do not cure eposies in your house.....

Do not store open chemicals in your house....

Oh ya=> Always, and I mean always point the knife , torch, or any other dangerous item away from your direction of cutting or heating/burning.

BrianW

CoolROD · 08-11-2003, 09:40 AM

Where are you planning to use sealant? It's the materials that usually dictate which adhesive to use...

Teflon tape is advisible when you want to remove tapered pipe threads at some point in the future.

Hose Clamps are not usually necessary, but I like the plastic total circle types.

I am not a fan of massive globs of silicone for any reason..., but I understand that some people do not have the knowledge, skills. tools, or money to do the job correctly.

PhoenixKnights · 08-11-2003, 11:23 AM

So any preference between Zerex and Wetter water?

As for Sealant I'm not sure I was thinking I'd do something as permanent as I can around the water block since that's the part I'm most worried about leaking the rest will be out of the case. I was thinking I'd put a little bit of silicone on the hoses where they go into or over the plastic and then slide it on and hold it there till it dries and seals. But I'm definately open to suggestions.

08-09-2003, 10:13 PM	#1
PhoenixKnights Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Utah Posts: 8	Sealing Hey guys when you build a water cooling system what do you recommend to seal it up so you won't have to worry about it leaking till you need to buy a new computer or whatever? silicone? Or perhaps epoxy or something else?

08-09-2003, 10:42 PM	#4
winewood Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: in my chair Posts: 574	tephlon tape. .88 cents a roll. __________________ -winewood-

08-10-2003, 12:23 AM	#9
BrianW Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Desert City in California Posts: 631	Pheonix it may very well be necessary to take your warecooling rig apart. You may develop biological growth, or you may need to relocate an item in your loop. You should be more specific as to what you want to seal. If you are talking about tubes, nipples, and waterblocks, you do not need to seal. If you are talking about NPT thread to thread connections you do not need to seal, but you can use teflon tape to lubricate the mating, nad get a deeper penetration. (Sounds rather kinky...) BrianW __________________ Water Cooled Inwin Q500 (Dual Rads: Rad1 = DTEK Pro Core \| Rad2 = Blick Ice Estreme, Hydor L30, Dangerden Maze2, Bay Res Typhoon Reservoir, 1/2 " DD Tygon Thick Wall Hose). Flow: Res, Pump, CPU watervlock, Y into both rads, both rads into res independently. Athlon XP 1800+ (@ 1731 - 150mhz fsb.), on a Asus A7N266-c, and a Radeon 9000 *waiting for RMA'd Saphire 9800 ultra from Newegg)

08-10-2003, 02:17 AM	#10
winewood Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: in my chair Posts: 574	PheonixKnights, first just build a setup. You will quickly see what holds and what doesn't. Just assemble it outside the case and run it for at least 20 min. All these questions will quickly be a mute point I assure yo. __________________ -winewood-

08-10-2003, 09:46 PM	#12
BrianW Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Desert City in California Posts: 631	Well an additive will breakdown into it's component parts with time. You can not have a maintenance free setup. Well I have not flushed mine for over 18 months, but is due for one bad.... BrianW __________________ Water Cooled Inwin Q500 (Dual Rads: Rad1 = DTEK Pro Core \| Rad2 = Blick Ice Estreme, Hydor L30, Dangerden Maze2, Bay Res Typhoon Reservoir, 1/2 " DD Tygon Thick Wall Hose). Flow: Res, Pump, CPU watervlock, Y into both rads, both rads into res independently. Athlon XP 1800+ (@ 1731 - 150mhz fsb.), on a Asus A7N266-c, and a Radeon 9000 *waiting for RMA'd Saphire 9800 ultra from Newegg)

08-09-2003, 10:35 PM	#2
Zhentar Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Madison, WI Posts: 225	well, my system hasn't leaked yet and its just well tightened barbs and well tightend screw clamps. You really don't need to seal it completely.

08-09-2003, 10:37 PM	#3
AXDA2600DKV3D Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Florida, USA Posts: 40	u can do it like a plumber and use that tape on the screw spots (i forget the name...)

08-09-2003, 10:46 PM	#5
AXDA2600DKV3D Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Florida, USA Posts: 40	i mean i forget the name of that part of the screws/bolts that bite down into the material part with the spirals the screw part...

08-09-2003, 10:49 PM	#6
JCYC5 Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Hong Kong Posts: 102	Thread?

08-09-2003, 11:18 PM	#8
AXDA2600DKV3D Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Florida, USA Posts: 40	thats it, the thread thanks! memory leak lol

08-10-2003, 09:11 PM	#11
PhoenixKnights Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Utah Posts: 8	well the only part I am going to have inside of the case is the water block and the tubes that attach it to the radiator and pump which will be above my case in a tool box or something with it's own seperate power supply. and as this is my first water cooling construction I'm just afraid that I might at some point accidently fubar it and have a leak develop to the point where something like a processor or important part of motherboard goes zap and dies because of the water. At the same time I don't want to do much maintence on the water cooler because I'm lazy I supppose. Also I'm going to add wetter water or Zerex to the distilled water I'll have running through it to keep it bilogical free corosion free and working at top efficency. I'm going to be using a MCW5000-P water block, a Danner Mag Drive 3 pump, a brand new ford heater core as the radiator, and then a reservior which I'll make out of like a pipe, or some tuperware. And then place it all in a box above the computer except for the mcw5000-P which will be of course on the cpu with tubs going to it. Also I plan to hopefully make it so I can shut off the water flow in case I want to detach the system and move it for a lan party or something.

08-10-2003, 10:12 PM	#13
PhoenixKnights Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Utah Posts: 8	I think I can handle once a year, do you have a recommendation on which one to use? wetter water or Zerex? And other than draining and refilling the system is there anything else you need to do as maintainence?

08-10-2003, 11:32 PM	#14
BrianW Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Desert City in California Posts: 631	Measure 3 times, cut once..... Always wear Safety Goggles.... Do not cure eposies in your house..... Do not store open chemicals in your house.... Oh ya=> Always, and I mean always point the knife , torch, or any other dangerous item away from your direction of cutting or heating/burning. BrianW __________________ Water Cooled Inwin Q500 (Dual Rads: Rad1 = DTEK Pro Core \| Rad2 = Blick Ice Estreme, Hydor L30, Dangerden Maze2, Bay Res Typhoon Reservoir, 1/2 " DD Tygon Thick Wall Hose). Flow: Res, Pump, CPU watervlock, Y into both rads, both rads into res independently. Athlon XP 1800+ (@ 1731 - 150mhz fsb.), on a Asus A7N266-c, and a Radeon 9000 *waiting for RMA'd Saphire 9800 ultra from Newegg)

08-11-2003, 09:40 AM	#15
CoolROD Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: North Carolina, USA Posts: 225	Where are you planning to use sealant? It's the materials that usually dictate which adhesive to use... Teflon tape is advisible when you want to remove tapered pipe threads at some point in the future. Hose Clamps are not usually necessary, but I like the plastic total circle types. I am not a fan of massive globs of silicone for any reason..., but I understand that some people do not have the knowledge, skills. tools, or money to do the job correctly. __________________ Jack of all Trades, Master of None.

08-11-2003, 11:23 AM	#16
PhoenixKnights Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Utah Posts: 8	So any preference between Zerex and Wetter water? As for Sealant I'm not sure I was thinking I'd do something as permanent as I can around the water block since that's the part I'm most worried about leaking the rest will be out of the case. I was thinking I'd put a little bit of silicone on the hoses where they go into or over the plastic and then slide it on and hold it there till it dries and seals. But I'm definately open to suggestions.

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