waterproofing

siavash_s_s · 10-01-2003, 09:02 PM

i made a rotor out of copper 1/4" thick with a pespex top (i know ill change to lexan when i get some). the problem i have is that the damned thing leaks. i cant put an oring as i have no mill or space as 4 of the bolt holes that hole the perspex to the copper are about 1mm away from the water channels. i tried normal silicone sealant but that isnt exactly doing the job perfectley either. anyone got any ideas? btw i *could* make a gasket with some leather but that is a bit inconvenient and would spoil the whole idea of a clear top... photos coming soon

Tens0r · 10-02-2003, 03:18 AM

vaseline. but it will downgrade the 'cool' factor abit as its abit messy because it fills all the ridges like thermal paste does.

lap the top of the copper aswell.

siavash_s_s · 10-02-2003, 04:13 AM

hmm i have been testing the block with a nice thick layer of silicone for about 5 hours now and no problems at all however it doesnt look to me like it will be exactly reliable so im going to make another with an o ring. ill put up some pics when i get my digital cam back
thnx for the idea tho but i dont think the vaseline will cope with the < 1mm ridge if copper seperating my cpu from doom. ill test it on a (according to #rotor "some what botched up job"... only playin rotor

) old block i made however

#Rotor · 10-02-2003, 05:13 AM

use Goop.... It sticks like shit

siavash_s_s · 10-02-2003, 07:02 AM

what the hell is goop and is it clear and does it compare to resin in strength, cos i dont want a crazy bond that has a halflife of a million years

anyway the silicon is holding out so far. im going to make a whole new block super super sweet this time too.. take a whole day if i have to (the other blocks too scarcley over 2 hours to finish drilling and sanding and lapping etc....) now i need to know what grade polycarb to use. i pmd cathar to ask what he is using

MMZ_TimeLord · 10-02-2003, 08:43 AM

You can still use the silicone... BUT, you MUST let it cure before you fully clamp the two pieces together.

Best to lay a bead down, then set the pespex top on to create a flat gasket shape. Let it cure 24 hours if that's what the tube directions tell you is the cure time of the silicone.

THEN and only then... torque down your screws/bolts to clamp the two pieces together. This will squash your new gasket and seal the pieces.

Hope that helps.

siavash_s_s · 10-02-2003, 08:47 AM

crap... well i tightened it down good an hour after the sample i left on my spreading spoon hardened and it squashed alot out. its not really a gasket anymore but more of a thin film filling gaps. it works so far but im not planning on using this block as i have already designed a better one. all i need is a CNC.. i suppose my 20000 rpm wood router will do (plz dont gimme crap about it being dangerous and not working. it works fine and i have used it and its great altho u need a steady hand for accuracy, its not dangerous, hell the machinist i was buying stuff from suggested that too)
anyway o ring is the way to go so thats what im doing. time to get some 1/2" copper and lexan now

10-01-2003, 09:02 PM	#1
siavash_s_s Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: here n there Posts: 194	waterproofing i made a rotor out of copper 1/4" thick with a pespex top (i know ill change to lexan when i get some). the problem i have is that the damned thing leaks. i cant put an oring as i have no mill or space as 4 of the bolt holes that hole the perspex to the copper are about 1mm away from the water channels. i tried normal silicone sealant but that isnt exactly doing the job perfectley either. anyone got any ideas? btw i could make a gasket with some leather but that is a bit inconvenient and would spoil the whole idea of a clear top... photos coming soon __________________ buy me a mill

10-02-2003, 04:13 AM	#3
siavash_s_s Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: here n there Posts: 194	hmm i have been testing the block with a nice thick layer of silicone for about 5 hours now and no problems at all however it doesnt look to me like it will be exactly reliable so im going to make another with an o ring. ill put up some pics when i get my digital cam back thnx for the idea tho but i dont think the vaseline will cope with the < 1mm ridge if copper seperating my cpu from doom. ill test it on a (according to #rotor "some what botched up job"... only playin rotor ) old block i made however __________________ buy me a mill Last edited by siavash_s_s; 10-02-2003 at 04:24 AM.

10-02-2003, 05:13 AM	#4
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	use Goop.... It sticks like shit __________________ There is no Spoon....

10-02-2003, 07:02 AM	#5
siavash_s_s Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: here n there Posts: 194	what the hell is goop and is it clear and does it compare to resin in strength, cos i dont want a crazy bond that has a halflife of a million years anyway the silicon is holding out so far. im going to make a whole new block super super sweet this time too.. take a whole day if i have to (the other blocks too scarcley over 2 hours to finish drilling and sanding and lapping etc....) now i need to know what grade polycarb to use. i pmd cathar to ask what he is using __________________ buy me a mill

10-02-2003, 08:43 AM	#6
MMZ_TimeLord Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: San Mateo, CA, USA, Earth Posts: 433	You can still use the silicone... BUT, you MUST let it cure before you fully clamp the two pieces together. Best to lay a bead down, then set the pespex top on to create a flat gasket shape. Let it cure 24 hours if that's what the tube directions tell you is the cure time of the silicone. THEN and only then... torque down your screws/bolts to clamp the two pieces together. This will squash your new gasket and seal the pieces. Hope that helps. __________________ MMZ>TimeLord "Oooooooooh... that's gonna leave a mark!"

10-02-2003, 03:18 AM	#2
Tens0r Cooling Neophyte Join Date: May 2003 Location: Auckland , NZ Posts: 14	vaseline. but it will downgrade the 'cool' factor abit as its abit messy because it fills all the ridges like thermal paste does. lap the top of the copper aswell.

10-02-2003, 08:47 AM	#7
siavash_s_s Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: here n there Posts: 194	crap... well i tightened it down good an hour after the sample i left on my spreading spoon hardened and it squashed alot out. its not really a gasket anymore but more of a thin film filling gaps. it works so far but im not planning on using this block as i have already designed a better one. all i need is a CNC.. i suppose my 20000 rpm wood router will do (plz dont gimme crap about it being dangerous and not working. it works fine and i have used it and its great altho u need a steady hand for accuracy, its not dangerous, hell the machinist i was buying stuff from suggested that too) anyway o ring is the way to go so thats what im doing. time to get some 1/2" copper and lexan now __________________ buy me a mill

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