Specific design for peltier asst WB

[arken420]

I'd like to hear your thoughts on this design I have for a waterblock. It's nothing special and not quite thought out yet, but as I'm really getting interested in stacking pelts and doing some real hardcore cooling I wanted to see what you guys spotted wrong with this idea. I've got another thread running about this but I just want this to be a thread for ideas, not actually for a given project, if that makes any sense.

I'm going to describe it as best as I can, since the only PC prog I have for drawing is paint, I'm a pencil and paper drafts-man, not a CAD-junkie.

First there will be 2 inlets, I'm thinking 3/8in driven by 3 L30's in series each. One 1/2in Outlet that will go to RAD/RES.

I'll probably use polycarbon for the top, about 1/2in thick, but the inlets and outlet will be completely tapped through that 1/2in, so the inlets and outlet thread will meet up with the copper baseplate.

This is a single piece of copper, not sandwiched, it's just easier for me to leak-proof if I don't have to worry about laminating multiple layers.

Lets talk about the inlets, I'm planning on doing those myself, because I plan on doing an impingment system, like Cathar's Casscade block, but instead of building a layer that rides just below the inlets I'm going to build the tubes inside the inlets, that way I can create small jets that spray onto the copper baseplate. I'll have the tubes with a radius of .76mm, which would equal about 25 or so in each inlet. I think I'll make the exit radius about .5mm so that I can create a bit more spray, if that's how that works.

Now the baseplate, will have two square sections below the the 2 inlets that have a _n_n_n_ type pattern of 20mmx20mm milled into the bottom. The peaks will be about 1-2mm high and 1-2mm wide. I will center some of the depressions with the tubes from the inlets. It will look like a chess board, with alternating raised and lowered portions. I will line up the edge of the pattern with the edge of the inlet that is closest to the outer edge of the baseplate. This way I'll have an overlap of about 10mm toward the center of the baseplate.

The center of the baseplate will become rows instead of the chess board pattern, this will increase flow and create a little more turbulance where the chess pattern meets with the rows.

The actual baseplate will be about 1/4inch thick, maybe less I'll have to test that part. I really want the heat from the pelts to seep through to the water quick, so I figure a thinner base is better, just how thin, will probably take a few tests.

I'll design the actual size of the baseplate to match with the polycarbon top, and meet the specs for mounting to the 4 intel 478 socket holes in my motherboard.

Now, with all that said I'll be using two 120 watt pelts that cool another 120 watt pelt, so that's why I've opted for the two inlets. Since the pelts will have an area of 400mmx80mm, I can't simply use a single inlet and hope to cool that whole area.


Whatcha think?

Laterz