5950 Ultra Waterblock -Bladerunner style

[ZapWizard]

I am trying to duplicate some of what blade runner had for his 5900 waterblock, but with a few twists.

First I use some digital calipers and created a model of my 5950 in trueSpace3 (free from download.com, or search google)







The model is here if anyone needs it:
http://www.zapwizard.com/laserpc/5950/5950.cob

The twist with this project is that I want to take the water from the 5950 Ultra, down to the SK8N northbridge, under the AGP card, then back up to cool the backside DDR.





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This complicates the flow layout and fitting location a bit.





So far I want to use 8mm puch fittings, with a 90degree fitting for the exit.

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The block will be CNCed out of one piece of copper (Besides copper lid)
The botton will be even with the GPU, with extra drops for the DDR chips.

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Any other ideas?

[nicodache]

I think it would be nice if you made like an HSF (without fan)on the piece of copper, outside of the w/c circuit

some pics are coming

[edit]here is the pic



i'm very bad at designing
what i'm trying to explain is that the graphics card would look funnie, smarter, etc, if you make some heatsink maze, and, by the way, that would increase the surface of the cooler... with the low airflow in your case, that may help cooling you gpu

[edit2]second pic :

a more stressing maze, but not too hard to mill (i think)



here is what i think, but do as you want, that's the way for w/b _you_ like

[ZapWizard]

I don't think i would cut any channels like that for a few reasons.

A: There will be little airflow inside this case
B: The copper cap would be hard to seal with soo much cut areas

As far as the maze, it would cut down on overall flow rates.

I am not terribly concerened about performance, but rather noise.
If I can get a performance boost, well then that is just bonus.

[ZapWizard]

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I decided that I want a large 1/2" (I.D.) Tube directly above the graphics card, this gives me a lot more flow, and will overall look cooler.

Also the northbridge doesn't really need water-cooling, as a nForce3 is capable of 800mhz hypertransport, but only runs at 600mhz, so there is a large margin of overclocking without the need for watercooling.
So now all I need to worry about is the 5950.

I have also expaned and re-designed the channel to 1/2" wide, and a little over 1/4" deep.
This gives more flow, and I greatly enhanced the flow over the GPU.

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(Image of backside of card)

Then following Bladerunners design I decided to split the flow to both sides of the card.
I choose not to change the flow pattern as I want to allow a total 50/50 split of water pressure. (Rather then having the backside DDR channel shorter)

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This creates a new problem, how to split the flow up.
(The above would be ideal but impossible to seal properly)

I have thought about simply using four 90 degree fittings, and a then a flow splitter before the card, this will probably end up being the easiest to do.

[BladeRunner]

I like the 3d images I've been mapping the FX5900 U dimensions myself but only in 2d for hole positions really.

The biggest problem I can see is the weight.... something I'm always fighting, but your design is a lot of copper on the card.

Also to make it easier to fit consider 3/8" barbs and do a NB block with 3/8" also then split the output from your CPU block to both (assuming it's 1/2"). The flow will be enough for both and should help keep the overall system flow rate good.

I'm pretty certain you've see my build....... if not it's HERE.

One other thing to consider if you haven't is the bottom edge of the blocks where the cards gold fingers are. Make sure you double check that there are no mobo components in this area as it can be very tight with some. Below is the 9700 cooler showing how tight the ram block is to the ram slots.

[ZapWizard]

Originally posted by BladeRunner
The biggest problem I can see is the weight.... something I'm always fighting, but your design is a lot of copper on the card.

One other thing to consider if you haven't is the bottom edge of the blocks where the cards gold fingers are.

Glad to see you here...

I know that the card will weigh a lot.
To keep the card from tiliting to one side or the other I plan on making the block go all the way down, and touch the AGP slot.
This should keep it from rocking too much.
I will also secure the card at the back more then just the 1 screw.

I am using a SK8N, and there are no components higher then the AGP slot with-in one inch.

That image of your radeon, acutualy shows what I am thinking as an alternative for splitting the flow. (But at the top of the card, and using 90degree connectors)

Does anyone know where I can get Festo connectors in the U.S.?

I plan on doing a dual loop configuration, cooling the CPU and GPU.
I am not sure how much space I will have, so I may try two smaller pumps rather then 1 large pump.

[ZapWizard]

After some more thinking I decived dual input and dual output as with you Radeon is best.

It also looks even better:



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Back block is a mirror image of the front block

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View as it would be from the front of the PC.

I guess I forgot to mention one reason I am not to worried about weight is that the AGP card will be vertical, and the motherboard parallel to the table surface.

/Edit changes images to Rev4
I added a acrilic tube retainer that I will make.

[JFettig]

I woudl definately change the back a little, mainly beause there is no gpu on the back, just make it connect strait instead of Z across, and possibly just cut that whole extra edge off

Jon

[ZapWizard]

I can do that, but how would that effect the flow balance though?

Would a shorter path encourage more flow through that side?

[Zogthetroll]

I would think that having a shorter path would probably mean higher flow, assuming less resistance to flow from less friction with the walls of the block and fewer bends in the path being traveled. if it were me i'd minimize the design anyway. partly because of weight (which i know you're not concerned about). if you're worried about flow, simply add a fin or something to increase resistance in the shorter path and help transfer heat to the water where it would do the most good. figured i'd add that, for what its worth.

[-J-]

nice models, i like the design.

although i would consider making a pin grid area over the gpu core, instead of those S channels. just an idea.

PS: do you used 3d studio max for making the models? would you send me an email with the materials u used for the block and the hoses? thanks.

[ZapWizard]

Originally posted by -J-
PS: do you used 3d studio max for making the models? would you send me an email with the materials u used for the block and the hoses? thanks.

As posted at the start of the thread, I use trueSpace3
(Search for "truespace3 download" on google)

The materials are built into the programs shaders, it really is almost built in.



/Edit: And now rev4 with pins over the GPU and no snaking channel on the DDR side.

[-J-]

ups, missed that about truespace3.

about the pin grid, i think that making something more like a rotor stile will suit you better, since its easier to do, even more with a CNC machine. and the water/copper ratio its too low there, it would be too restrictive.

a least as it looks, maybe smaller rods would solve that, but they are quite difficult to make.

[BladeRunner]

The pin area is probably the least restrictive part. if you assume that the gap between the pins is 2mm then it would equal to 14mm across the pinned area. I would assume this is wider than the channel. input/output area will create the most restriction imo.

The front block channel looks similar to mine other than I never finished off the groves to pins due to snapping all my 2mm bits

You could also mill out a triangle on the bottom part of the backside block to reduce weight without it being part of the channeling. Also a mica shim, (or shims), in the backside gpu area to help transfer some heat to the backside block.

The perspex tube tidy is a nice idea and would look good, but making the 90 degree output/inputs curve inside each other and keeping it all straight and true will be tricky to do well.

[ZapWizard]

I will most likly have this CNCed

Roter style uses divits correct?

I think I will add a series of holes to help cut down weight without loosing strength

The tubing is part of my idea to keep things looking slimmer.
This card is going to be in a plexi case so it will be entirely visible.

Thanks for the tip on the Mica shims, I know exactly where I can get some too.

What size screws should I use for this?
I plan on tapping the DDR block and fixing the GPU side to that.
Or would small bolts and nuts work just fine?

[BladeRunner]

Excuse my lame edit of your image in ms paint but this is what I was thinking. if it's to be CNC'd then it could easily be part of one programmed run.



The fixing screws is harder to advise on as they are not quite M3 holes in the card, or at least some high quality M3 bolts I have won't go through without wanting to cut a slight thread in the card hole. I used M2 for mine which are quite thin but allowed for slight inaccuracies in lining up all the holes. Maybe an M2.5 would be ok, (I'm not sure what imperial sizes it would corresponded to, I find it too confusing using fractions of inches :shrug: ) You will however have to be spot on with the hole positions and that is far easier said than done unless you could laser map them direct from the card into a CNC or something.

[ZapWizard]

That is a pretty darn good paint hack

Here is my newest Rev:



I cut a few corners down, added holes to drop weight.
(I also think it looks cool)
I could add more holes to the DDR side, but I would like to keep things looking symetrical.

I also modeled in some hose clamps.

I am keeping everything in Metrics for now, hopefully I can find those taps and screws in the U.S.

Also this looks so good, yet I plan on capping it off with copper.
Is there anyway to adhere a clear lid without using a gasket?
Or should I redesign with room for a gasket?

I have a laser cutter, so I can make a plastic lid that is super accurate to the CNCed copper.

[8-Ball]

Don't know if it's been mentioned already, but how are you planning to seal the block? What are you using as a "lid".

8-ball

[8-Ball]

Just noticed you mentioned this in your last post.

Sorry

[ZapWizard]

Here is an image as it would look with the lid attached.

I wonder how many of those screws would really be needed.

[ZapWizard]

As suggested in the bit-tech forums, I have changed to staggered hex pins.



And a detailed shot without raytracing.

[-J-]

looks good to me

[BladeRunner]

Bonding, gluing, smeging the lid on is not something I'd not favour. It might work ok but only up until the point it fails and you get a leak, it's just a solution I'd not trust myself...

It's difficult as a o-ring grove would be hard to do and you'd need a thick piece for it to be stiff enough to compressing the ring in-between the bolt areas without bending. also getting a ring the right size and making it stay in the grove while you assemble it will be a feat.

I know you want a clear top but part of the reason I still solder the blocks as its often the easiest and surest way especially for more complicated designs.

As far as the bolts go I have a box of 100 of M2 think they are 20mm long........if you go with M2 I could send you a handful (but note M2 taps are very easy to snap in copper)

[JFettig]

Here is my suggestion, make the back side thinner and smaller, only as large as you need, same with the front but not thinner, just as large as you need. The pins are a great idea, they will probably drop temps a little bit, but if you for some reason plan on making more than one of these and plan on selling them for less than $5000, I would suggest you find another route

I am really interested in seeing what you can whip up.

Can you save that in a dxf or dwg file? somethign I can open in autocad so I can show you what I think should be done?

Jon

[ZapWizard]

Originally posted by BladeRunner
Bonding, gluing, smeging the lid on is not something I'd not favour.

As far as the bolts go I have a box of 100 of M2 think they are 20mm long

I think I will make a copper lid, and have it ready to solder.
But first I will try some silicon as refered to in this post:
http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=6918
(Granted it will take some extra screws for each side)

I may contact you about the bolts, but more then likely I will have to change over to a different type. Would it hurt too much to simply use long threaded rods, washers, and nuts to hold it together? No need to tap.

Originally posted by JFettig
Here is my suggestion, make the back side thinner and smaller, only as large as you need

Since this will be visible from both sides. (Rather then just the backside) I want to keep it symetrical for looks.

I guess I can probably remove even more copper.
How thin can it be before I start risking strength?

I don't plan on selling these, this if for my next project.


/Edit:
I found a good website with holes sizes for a bunch of Cap screws.
http://www.evergreen.edu/biophysics/...c/capscrew.htm

So now I have holes counterset for M2.5 set screws.
But I will need 3mm screws for this waterblock.

Two new shots showing the cap screws.