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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
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#1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: InDaRimbOE
Posts: 5
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I was talking to a friend of mine about wanting to make my first direkt die cooler but he thought I should stear clear of that sort of cooling because he had heard that people who had been using direkt die cooling on their proc's had had their chips dying after about 6 months.
My question is simple ![]() And another question about direkt die cooling; I intend to use 2 component glue from the automotive industry but only if it doesn't conduct elektricity. If I test it with a simple multimeter and it doesn't beep, is it safe to use in that case? Or is that beep test to check for conductivity not waterproof? |
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#2 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: San Mateo, CA, USA, Earth
Posts: 433
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kristos,
IF you can get your direct die cooler to mate up with the outer edges of the die and seal it there, you will probably not have problems. If your direct die cooler has a larger opening than the die itself you will have problems as it HAS been stated the adheasive that holds the die in place has a problem with water over time. As to your 2 component glue... If you get anything under 1 mega ohm across a 5mm spread of the glue on paper, I wouldn't use it. As to the waterproof aspect, you would have to check with the manufacturer's data on that. The beep test on a meter by the way tests for Continuity or how low the resistance is across a circuit. This can be considered conductivity to a point. Usually meters "beep" at 400 ohms or less. This is quite a low resistance and simply tells you there is a DEFINITE circuit there, almost as if you have a regular wire in place. Hope that helps... ![]()
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#3 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 25
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If it's some kind of resin used for fiberglass body repairs, then also be aware that some of those are epoxy-based and can be affected by water. I think your best bet would be to go to or contact a marnie supply store, and get some fiberglass resin that wil be waterproof and hold up to whatever kinds of abuse it will need to endure. That is assuming you want to use a 2-part resin system (permanent bond!) Another option would be something like RTV or a silicone based adhesive used for plumbing or marine purposes. |
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#4 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: InDaRimbOE
Posts: 5
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Thx guys I'll keep it in mind.
I 'm going to cut out a piece in the center of the baseplate, just big enough for the core and glue it onto the proc, leaving very little space for the water and the glue to come into contact with eachother. I'll try to find some "glue" they use for fixing boats if you can call it that and I read something about someone using a sort of glue used for fishing. Don't ask me what a fisherman needs waterproof superglue for but hey ![]() |
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#5 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 25
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The marine "glue" I was talking about is usually referred to as resin, and it's used for fixing boats- it basically bonds fiberglass to boat hulls. There are many kinds though, so talking to someone who knows their stuff would be a good idea. |
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