heatsink -> waterblock

[Moparchris]

so anyone here made a waterblock out of a heatsink ?

im going to.. mainly because i cant find any cheap copper around here and its just easy..

im just using a Thermaltake p4 (the blocks gonna be for my Athlon though) tiny fin heatsink, im prettymuch just shortening the fins a bit so theyre about 5mm long, mabie a bit more, putting in a center inlet and 2 outlets, i have some brass plate stuff sitting around so ill use that for the walls and top of the block, im gonna braze it with some silver stuff, i forget what its called, but anyway....

[leejsmith]

Originally Posted by Moparchris

so anyone here made a waterblock out of a heatsink ?

im going to.. mainly because i cant find any cheap copper around here and its just easy..

im just using a Thermaltake p4 (the blocks gonna be for my Athlon though) tiny fin heatsink, im prettymuch just shortening the fins a bit so theyre about 5mm long, mabie a bit more, putting in a center inlet and 2 outlets, i have some brass plate stuff sitting around so ill use that for the walls and top of the block, im gonna braze it with some silver stuff, i forget what its called, but anyway....

i have blocks from thermaltake bases and akasa bases.

see here

http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...ight=leejsmith

my design was to make a white water style block using the tiny fins covering an area of about 25mm x 30mm .

anyway the thread covers it all

Lee

[|kbn|]

I was making a wb from a thermaltake dragon heatsink - it has about 2 inches of solid 44mm diameter copper inc the grid of pins on the top. It was really perfect, but being circular I gave up on methods to seal it/make lid.

Building up walls from brass isnt the easyest thing. I tryed similar from copper sheet, and I couldnt solder the barbs on becuase the rest just fell apart. Silver soldering will help give it strength though and it allows you to use other solders and colder flames to stop the first bit from unsolderring itself.
I intend to try again with the walls method to make a mosfet block for my nf7-s. Probably wont have any fins given the small heat output, but getting it to fit in place propely and the barbs will be difficult I think.
How thick is the brass? You could use two or three layers of it to build up the lid, instead of
using walls. Easyer to solder too... or you can use screws to seal it.

Brass is good enough for waterblock bases - slightly better than alu but wont corrode, so that might be worth trying.

[Moparchris]

Originally Posted by |kbn|

I was making a wb from a thermaltake dragon heatsink - it has about 2 inches of solid 44mm diameter copper inc the grid of pins on the top. It was really perfect, but being circular I gave up on methods to seal it/make lid.

Building up walls from brass isnt the easyest thing. I tryed similar from copper sheet, and I couldnt solder the barbs on becuase the rest just fell apart. Silver soldering will help give it strength though and it allows you to use other solders and colder flames to stop the first bit from unsolderring itself.
I intend to try again with the walls method to make a mosfet block for my nf7-s. Probably wont have any fins given the small heat output, but getting it to fit in place propely and the barbs will be difficult I think.
How thick is the brass? You could use two or three layers of it to build up the lid, instead of
using walls. Easyer to solder too... or you can use screws to seal it.

Brass is good enough for waterblock bases - slightly better than alu but wont corrode, so that might be worth trying.

with the soldering the stuff togeather and it falling apart.. mabie you could put the rest of it in water so the rest dosnt heat up then put the barbs on

and the silver stuff.. its not silver solder, its some silver brazing stuff, i forget what its called but its not solder

the brass is just 2mm thick

the block i have at the moment.. i made out of brass because it was just lying around its not all that good though, made it ages ago and didnt know too much about water cooling then

im just starting to cut the copper HS to size, dont have too much time, only got a little done, im not sure how im gonna cut the fins, i need to cut some off 90 degrees to the way they run because its too wide but i dont wanna cut the base becasue i need that for mounting, theyre real thin so im not sure how to cut it

[|kbn|]

a dremmel should work ok for cutting them...

I dont recommend using water to cool metal while you heat it with a 600c+ flame. Easy to burn yourself in the steam.

You could use plastic for the lid, though I dont know what plastics you can get over there...

[Moparchris]

hmm, yeah i dont actuallyy have a dremel.. well i have a pnumatic thing similar to a dremel but i have no cutting wheels or anything and i still recon theyre too thin anyway to cut with that sortof thing,

and im not too keen on plastic tops myself, heard too much about them cracking and leaking, i know if done right theyd be fine but for me.. id rather have a nice solid metal top

[|kbn|]

Depends on the plastic. Accrylic which is what the fist plastic blocks used cracked easly. This is the smae plastic as cd cases and stuff... Im not sure WHY any one decided to use it as theres better plastics. Polyethylene is good if you can get it - I got a big peice from a cutting board. It works well but I too prefer metal tops because they look better and can be soldered on.