newbie cheapo watercooling

theyellowdart · 05-07-2004, 02:27 PM

I'm trying to build my own watercooling system, right now I'm on air and I've never used watercooling before. My dad works at a university and has access to all sorts of machining tools, copper, etc., so that shouldn't be a problem. I trying to do a white-water-ish design, and I was wondering if you have to use the end-mill for that or if I could use a saw blade (still on a mill) If I go with the saw, I can fit more channels in a smaller area (the blade is 1/64" thick!?!?!?!) is this too small?

I was also wondering how cheap I can go for the pump. I found one at wal-mart for $35 that was 310 gph w/ a 8'5" head. Good/bad? Thanx in advance for your help.

SlaterSpeed · 05-07-2004, 02:50 PM

You have to use slitting saws to do microchannels (whitewater design) anyway so your lucky you have acess to the right equipment. I have use 1/64 channels in my latest block, it worked very well

For a pump you need to get something that is recognised as a good watercooling pump. try something like a Hydor L30 or Danner Mag3 they are nice and cheap but are also pretty good pumps.

|kbn| · 05-07-2004, 04:03 PM

liang d4 pumps are also very good if you can get them - dangerden now rebrand them so shouldnt be too hard to get one. iirc they are slightly more expensive (but I dont know how much in usd). They are about the same price as an eheim 1250, or £20 more than the hydor over here (which is about 40usd).
While the more channels the better, it also makes blocks more restrictive, so remember that... no point in having a very restrictive block for a nb...

05-07-2004, 02:27 PM	#1
theyellowdart Cooling Neophyte Join Date: May 2004 Location: Idaho Posts: 1	newbie cheapo watercooling I'm trying to build my own watercooling system, right now I'm on air and I've never used watercooling before. My dad works at a university and has access to all sorts of machining tools, copper, etc., so that shouldn't be a problem. I trying to do a white-water-ish design, and I was wondering if you have to use the end-mill for that or if I could use a saw blade (still on a mill) If I go with the saw, I can fit more channels in a smaller area (the blade is 1/64" thick!?!?!?!) is this too small? I was also wondering how cheap I can go for the pump. I found one at wal-mart for $35 that was 310 gph w/ a 8'5" head. Good/bad? Thanx in advance for your help.

05-07-2004, 02:50 PM	#2
SlaterSpeed Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Suffolk, UK Posts: 234	You have to use slitting saws to do microchannels (whitewater design) anyway so your lucky you have acess to the right equipment. I have use 1/64 channels in my latest block, it worked very well For a pump you need to get something that is recognised as a good watercooling pump. try something like a Hydor L30 or Danner Mag3 they are nice and cheap but are also pretty good pumps. __________________ aka. slater3333uk - The self proclaimed 'Middle Player' 'Liquified'

05-07-2004, 04:03 PM	#3
\|kbn\| Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: W. Sussex, UK Posts: 329	liang d4 pumps are also very good if you can get them - dangerden now rebrand them so shouldnt be too hard to get one. iirc they are slightly more expensive (but I dont know how much in usd). They are about the same price as an eheim 1250, or £20 more than the hydor over here (which is about 40usd). While the more channels the better, it also makes blocks more restrictive, so remember that... no point in having a very restrictive block for a nb...

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