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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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#1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Canada
Posts: 18
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Hi,
I'm going to modify a case to try to be one of the best water-cooling cases and I'm looking for some input on whether my ideas are good or bad. I'm very new into the water-cooling scene and have been lurking on these forums picking up pieces here and there as I go, so I'm very much a junior when it comes to this stuff. Anyways, I've been looking at cases that are friendly to water-cooling and DIY'er's (or with a little modding could become greatly friendly) and would like some input from the guys who now this stuff ![]() To start, I've used a water-cooling system in a very low-flow air case with very little air intakes (2 x 80mm fans) and very little air out-takes (2 x 80mm fans, case has been modded for this) with two 80mm radiators on the intakes. The intakes themselves are limited by the surface area of the intake "hole" which is smaller than the total surface area of the two rad's + fans. Obviously, this has not been great for feeding air to the rad's fans and hurts the potential cooling performance to some degree, about 2-5C whether idle or under load. The load has been measured by removing the air-intake barrier and running the case with the door off (which seems to improve air-flow?). The water-cooling system used is the SwiftTech H20-80 (original with fill-and-bleed) with two 80mm rad's and a VGA cooler. This case has not been the most specatular it seems and required a fair bit of modding and it is still underwhelming in terms of performance. So, when looking for a new case, I've decided on the Lian Li PCV-1000. The modifications I've made to this case are: 1) Removed the bottom left hard-drive rack so the pump can fit there 2) Removed the floppy bay and bottom 5 1/2in bay to allow for a 120x240mm radiator setup The 12x24 rad's will go in the front of the case, which is a much, much more higher air-flow case because of perforated design. The case will be cooling the same components the old one did (with maybe a second video card or processor). The cooling kit I plan to be using is the H20 220 R2 kit from SwiftTech with a VGA cooler. So... What does everyone think? |
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#2 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Los Angeles, Ca
Posts: 310
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I predict this is gonna be one hell of a mess of a thread...
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#3 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: texas
Posts: 68
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Check out the Chenbro SR104 Genie case. The hard drive rack is placed up in the back near the P/S (which is flipped on it's side). This leaves the bottom front of the case free to put in a 120x240 radiator with fans easily (you can cut out the grill there too to improve airflow). The rear of the case has space for a 120 exhaust fan and a 90 exhaust fan (which cools the hard drives). You can even add 1 or 2 more 80mm fans above the card slots if you want to cut the holes. This leaves you with four 5/14" slots and one 3 1/2" slot in the front, and five 3 1/2" slots in the internal cage (6 if you push it). It's a nice layout with lots of room.
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#4 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: USA - Boston area
Posts: 798
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How much room is there between the "underside" of the PS (now pointed at the hard drives) and the drive cage? I'm asking because I'm using Seasonic "Tornado" PSs - 120mm fan on the PS "underside" (really nice PSs, quiet, high efficiency, high apparent-to-actual power ratio). Seasonic does make a similar PS with the fan in the "usual" place, which is only slightly louder - but it is louder... |
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#5 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Portugal
Posts: 179
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I would go for the LIAN LI PC-6077B case with 9 modular 5.25" bays.
Has more flexibility than the PCV-1000. |
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#6 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Los Angeles, Ca
Posts: 310
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The pc-v1000 is great for water cooling from what alot of people say, but only if u have a small pump such as the mcp650 or the dange den d4 (same thing). As well u need to have a small rad. A single 120mm rad would the optimal for that case as it can either be attached where the hd rack is (have to remove one rack) or off the back of the case where there is that 120mm fan.
but for large pumps such as the iwakis or the larger eheims, along with a dual heatercore the case is limiting without some serious modification. I tried to think of a way to setup my current water cooling setup in the pcv100 and even the 2000 and i couldnt get it to work. The way it is setup is just not friendly to the larger water cooling gear imo. Now actually reading your post, and seeing ur setup, I suppose it will work, but you dont need to put the pump down there. u can sit it next to the mobo. right to the left of it. it will shorten up your tubing alot. As far as the rad placement, im not fond of the way u plan to d it becaues u will be fuxxored if u want ot add any cd rom drives or if u need to use a floppy. and there will be a day when u need to.
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#7 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Andover, MA, USA
Posts: 14
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Are you using the Black Ice Micro? They are thicker than the alternatives and the performance is better.
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#8 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: USA - Boston area
Posts: 798
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#9 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: 15143
Posts: 358
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#10 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: texas
Posts: 68
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I have an SR104. The case is wider than a typical midtower at almost 9 inches. If you have a supply with a bottom fan on it there is 5/8" clearance between that fan and the side of the case for airflow (that's the default mounting) however you can flip the supply over and the bottom fan will be facing the drive cage. There is about 3/8" spacing between the supply and the drive cage and the cage has about 40 1/2" holes on each side for ventilation. You can easily cut more slots in it if you want it to be even more open. There is no problem with ventilation with bottom fan type PS. Here is a URL with details and pictures. click on the pics and links for more details.
http://www.coolcases.com/cases/sr104_m_p1.html Quote:
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#11 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Canada
Posts: 18
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Here are the modifications done to the PVC-1000... Removing the hard drive bays on the left allows for a fair sized pump, dual pump or just lots of room for future growth. Removing the last optical drive bay allows for a 120x240mm Rad, no worries about a floppy, we can fill one of the three bays with a 5 1/2 -> 3 1/4 adapter, leaving two bays for optical drives. This case is not huge, but not small (unlike the other PVC models) and has plenty of space for all cooling requirements.
What does everyone think? |
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#12 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Los Angeles, Ca
Posts: 310
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I got all 5 of my 5 and 1/2inch bays filled... So that setup would suck for me. but its an interestin idea. And where the hell would u put ur hds. the racks are all taken out...
Check out my thread on the pc-70. Im gonna get it for my watercooling setup. For big watercooling setups is the nicest case you can get. Absolutely beautiful and big enough to fit anything u want in there. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...328#post557328
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#13 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Canada
Posts: 18
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![]() Last edited by Metzen; 10-07-2004 at 03:03 AM. |
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#14 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Los Angeles, Ca
Posts: 310
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I like my res..... I defend it with great vigor and deep passion.
t lines are a cool idea, but I just dont like them. And besides i would still need 3 5 inch bays and 3 inch for floppy. but still. nice mods man. How did u make it? And how are you going to deal with the front bezel having more 5 inch bays than it does now?? I just dont like modifying the front panels of cases. Side walls and tops are ok but not front pannel. mine is hacked to hell right now and i dont much like it. I like the mod to be elegant and modest... Atleast on the outside. On the inside it better look cool and be fast.....
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