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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it

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Unread 12-28-2004, 02:26 PM   #1
TaTs
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Default How to cut copper?

Hey guys,
Just bought a drill press and a xy-table to start my first waterblock. But than I realized how hard it was to cut the 1/2" copper slab I will use. I used a hack saw but it took forever and the result was terrible .
I was wondering what you use to cut it in the size you want? I'm thinking in taking it to some kind of metalworking shop, but I would like to be able to do it by myself.
Any ideas? How do you guys do it?
Thanks.
________
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Unread 12-28-2004, 03:18 PM   #2
Kobuchi
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How many teeth per inch (tpi) on your hacksaw blade? The fineness rule is at least two teeth per material thickness, but there is no courseness rule for sawing thick stuff. I find even sawing soft 1/4" steel goes best with a blade that looks like a wood saw. For sure you can - and should - use the coursest blade available on 1/2" copper.

You can get the final dimension by sawing the rough edge on very course sandpaper (e.g. 40 grit on a flat surface) - paper meant for floor sanding machines is a nice size. This takes less effort and is more accurate than using a file.
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Unread 12-28-2004, 04:19 PM   #3
TaTs
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Kobuchi, just checked it. It's 24 tpi.
You're saying that i should use a coarser blade than? Just to have an idea, what should I be looking for in terms of tpi?
And thanks for the tip on the sandpaper, will definetly use it. In order even the surface later can I use the same method but with a finer sandpaper?
______
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Unread 12-28-2004, 05:39 PM   #4
Kobuchi
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The usual frequencies are 14tpi, 18tpi, 24tpi, and 32tpi.

32tpi is for very hard or thin stuff, 14tpi is for much softer, thicker material - like 1/2" copper. 18tpi would work too. The 14tpi and 18tpi teeth are formed differently than the finer ones, and cut more agressively than just their size would suggest.
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Unread 12-28-2004, 05:55 PM   #5
BillA
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if you fill the gullet, the blade will jam
it is a combination of tpi and the applied force/area (thickness nominally)
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Unread 12-29-2004, 04:14 AM   #6
Kobuchi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TaTs
In order even the surface later can I use the same method but with a finer sandpaper?
You got it.

For little items an overturned belt sander clamped in place removes material really quickly. Applying a piece to the moving belt isn't so dangerous or awkward as one might imagine.

***

Another hacksaw tip: make the blade nearly taut enough for music. Then if it gets warm from long sawing tighten it more. Loosen when finished.
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Unread 12-29-2004, 06:35 AM   #7
TaTs
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Thank you guys.
Already ordered some 14 and 18 tpi saws to give it a try.
As soon as I have a finished block I will post some pics.
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