Anouther spiral

Ls7corvete · 12-03-2004, 11:37 PM

Well here is what I have so far. In the center I plan to put some kind of cone to get the most out of the incoming "jet". The center hole is 4mm in diameter. The fins/channels in the center are ~.39mm growing to ~2.5mm at the end. I was thinking about a 5mm fin height and 3mm base.

I am hoping to cast in aluminum if I can get a foundry going.

Anyways, any constructive criticism welcome.

Thanks for the help in advance.

Kobuchi · 12-04-2004, 12:36 AM

Heh. Where'd you get that idea?

JFettig · 12-04-2004, 12:38 AM

take a look over at the OCAU forums, theres a similar in concept design.

Jon

Ls7corvete · 12-04-2004, 01:39 PM

Do you think you can machine this block? Its the inner channels that worry me.... I can change the block to fit whatever requirements you think are nessacary.

The OCAU block is quiet different. He is going for price, I am trying to make a good performing block of my own design, the main goal of my block is to have something to test out the process of casting a block in Al and silver.

Kobuchi: I have had this Idea in my head for a while, there has also been several spiral designs posted recently if you search for them.

What is everyones opinion of the channel and jet size/spacing? This is what worries me most....

Ls7corvete · 12-04-2004, 11:17 PM

alright, here is an update. I messed with the channels. The one in the block is the latest version, that is with 1/32" wide channels. Forget the inner "cone" it is simply unnessicarily complicating things.

Moparchris · 12-05-2004, 02:09 AM

emachineshop eh ?

looks good, should be no trouble to cast as well, as long as everything can have a slight taper so you can pull it out of sand if your going to do a sand casting, youd get smoother results with lost wax though id probly just go with sand casting because your going to have to machine the base anyway, then again your not going to need to get sand if you do lost wax

ive prettymuch finished my mould for my copper casting so i should be doing it sometime this week if i get the time

Ls7corvete · 12-05-2004, 12:33 PM

Yea I was thinking of doing lost wax for a while but now I am leaning towards having a block CNCed and then doing sand castings of that. I emailed Budget Casting Supply and got them to make me a smaller quantity of pertobond.

Think those small channels will cast ok? I am worred about how sand will hold up in a .79mm wide channel that is 3mm deep. I dont know how to put a taper on the channels if I have them CNCed. Hopefully it will work without...idk.

EDIT: I am talking with Jfettig about tapered endmills, he has been great about "walking me through this

". sence I see at least someone else uses emachineshop here are the files.

Ls7corvete · 01-12-2005, 12:52 PM

I am having some trouble putting this into 3d. If anyone has some autocad experience I would appreciate some help.

Basicaly I just want it to be a 3mm base and 4mm fins, everything needs to be tapered as much as possible without cutting the fins short.

http://james.elbbit.com/Fire/upload/...te/kevgood.dwg

Once I get a nice 3d model it is going to the prototyping machine to be "printed"

JFettig · 01-12-2005, 03:22 PM

That drawing is pure splines, Those cannot be extruded, I tried loading a dxf into bobcad and it wouldnt take it. maybe solidworks can do it, but who knows. what you want to do is make a drawing with polylines, join them and extrude,

as sad as it sounds, that will need to be redrawn in lines and polylines to make it 3d. try drawing the center with arcs.

Jon

Ls7corvete · 01-13-2005, 10:21 PM

Cry.

I will be working on that. Or my bro, hes the cad expert.

noxqzs · 01-14-2005, 04:57 PM

wasn't sure on dimensions, so i kind of winged it. easy enough to fix though. hope it helps.

kevgoodRevised.dwg

6800waterblock project

JFettig · 01-14-2005, 07:05 PM

I took that drawing, deleted the faces and extruded the correct stuff, I am now trying to figure out hwo to taper it,

noxgzs: do you happen to have that drawing before its converted to faces so that I can select each fin separately so i can extrude with taper?

Jon

noxqzs · 01-14-2005, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JFettig

I took that drawing, deleted the faces and extruded the correct stuff, I am now trying to figure out hwo to taper it,

noxgzs: do you happen to have that drawing before its converted to faces so that I can select each fin separately so i can extrude with taper?

Jon

here ya go.
kevgoodRev_2.dwg

Ls7corvete · 01-14-2005, 08:07 PM

Wow, I got three people all doing the same job for me at once. Hehe.

I already had my bro do the same thing last night, he just went over the curves with poly-lines and then deleted the splines.

The taper is a trick though, the fins come to a point so you will always get intersecting faces with any taper. There has to be a way around this, But I have not thought of it yet.

JFettig · 01-15-2005, 12:17 AM

I dont exactly know what you mean, but what you want to do is when you extrude your fins, give them a taper, like 5 degrees or something.
use the extrude command to extrude your polylines.

Jon

Ls7corvete · 01-16-2005, 01:19 AM

doesnt wanna work, tried extruding them all at once with a taper, also tried tapering them afterwards. I can get one side tapered but not both.

Ls7corvete · 01-16-2005, 03:20 PM

Well my bro did it, he has a couple models that I am pretty happy with. If you guys wanna make some and post them they will of coarse be considered.

Actualy if this goes well I will offer to cast any water blocks that you guys can get printed on the prototype machine.

Ls7corvete · 01-17-2005, 09:27 PM

Here you go guys, LMK what you think.

http://james.elbbit.com/Fire/upload/...te/kevgood.dwg

http://james.elbbit.com/Fire/upload/...rvete/Ktop.dwg

JFettig · 01-18-2005, 03:26 PM

the base looks great, although for the top, the channel doesnt need to be that deep, I would say only half the depth.
get it made!!!!

Jon

Ls7corvete · 01-18-2005, 03:46 PM

I made it that tall so that a barb could be put on the side of the block. Material costs are next to nothing for me. Even If I do this in silver the top will be in a cheaper alloy(aluminium brass?)

Ls7corvete · 02-08-2005, 06:22 PM

A lil update for you guys.

Thanks to me copying over the wrong files to this thread I didnt get the tapered verison printed out, but I did get something.

noxqzs, I believe it was yours.

Anyways, I attached a pic of the block printed along with the correct files.

THank you pro*banshee

edit:http://www.geocities.com/ls7corvete/spiraltappered.zip

killernoodle · 02-08-2005, 06:43 PM

Wow, that is very cool. I wanna see some copper though!

JFettig · 02-08-2005, 07:03 PM

What happened to all the fins? I thought there were a ton more fins than that?

Jon

Ls7corvete · 02-08-2005, 10:09 PM

Your right there were, when pro*banshee saw the gap between the fins-1mm and b/c this version had no taper to the fins he knew I would not be able to cast it. So he broke off every other fin.

Maybe I will try and cast it, I can see if petrobond really is that great.

Ls7corvete · 02-08-2005, 11:21 PM

Will someone check that zip and autcad files within, I just saw that I messed it up AGAIN.

edit: still not working, why is the forums eating my zips??

edit2:geocities, yay....
http://www.geocities.com/ls7corvete/spiraltappered.zip

01-14-2005, 04:57 PM	#11
noxqzs Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: MA Posts: 7	Is this what you're aiming at? wasn't sure on dimensions, so i kind of winged it. easy enough to fix though. hope it helps. kevgoodRevised.dwg 6800waterblock project Last edited by noxqzs; 01-14-2005 at 05:34 PM.

02-08-2005, 06:43 PM	#22
killernoodle Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 1,014	Wow, that is very cool. I wanna see some copper though! __________________ I have a nice computer.

02-08-2005, 11:21 PM	#25
Ls7corvete Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: FL Posts: 164	Will someone check that zip and autcad files within, I just saw that I messed it up AGAIN. edit: still not working, why is the forums eating my zips?? edit2:geocities, yay.... http://www.geocities.com/ls7corvete/spiraltappered.zip Last edited by Ls7corvete; 02-08-2005 at 11:54 PM.

12-04-2004, 12:36 AM	#2
Kobuchi Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: BC, Canada Posts: 313	Heh. Where'd you get that idea?

12-04-2004, 12:38 AM	#3
JFettig Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND Posts: 504	take a look over at the OCAU forums, theres a similar in concept design. Jon

12-04-2004, 01:39 PM	#4
Ls7corvete Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: FL Posts: 164	Do you think you can machine this block? Its the inner channels that worry me.... I can change the block to fit whatever requirements you think are nessacary. The OCAU block is quiet different. He is going for price, I am trying to make a good performing block of my own design, the main goal of my block is to have something to test out the process of casting a block in Al and silver. Kobuchi: I have had this Idea in my head for a while, there has also been several spiral designs posted recently if you search for them. What is everyones opinion of the channel and jet size/spacing? This is what worries me most....

12-05-2004, 02:09 AM	#6
Moparchris Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Auckland, New Zealand Posts: 50	emachineshop eh ? looks good, should be no trouble to cast as well, as long as everything can have a slight taper so you can pull it out of sand if your going to do a sand casting, youd get smoother results with lost wax though id probly just go with sand casting because your going to have to machine the base anyway, then again your not going to need to get sand if you do lost wax ive prettymuch finished my mould for my copper casting so i should be doing it sometime this week if i get the time

01-12-2005, 12:52 PM	#8
Ls7corvete Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: FL Posts: 164	I am having some trouble putting this into 3d. If anyone has some autocad experience I would appreciate some help. Basicaly I just want it to be a 3mm base and 4mm fins, everything needs to be tapered as much as possible without cutting the fins short. http://james.elbbit.com/Fire/upload/...te/kevgood.dwg Once I get a nice 3d model it is going to the prototyping machine to be "printed"

01-12-2005, 03:22 PM	#9
JFettig Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND Posts: 504	That drawing is pure splines, Those cannot be extruded, I tried loading a dxf into bobcad and it wouldnt take it. maybe solidworks can do it, but who knows. what you want to do is make a drawing with polylines, join them and extrude, as sad as it sounds, that will need to be redrawn in lines and polylines to make it 3d. try drawing the center with arcs. Jon

01-13-2005, 10:21 PM	#10
Ls7corvete Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: FL Posts: 164	Cry. I will be working on that. Or my bro, hes the cad expert.

01-14-2005, 07:05 PM	#12
JFettig Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND Posts: 504	I took that drawing, deleted the faces and extruded the correct stuff, I am now trying to figure out hwo to taper it, noxgzs: do you happen to have that drawing before its converted to faces so that I can select each fin separately so i can extrude with taper? Jon

01-14-2005, 08:07 PM	#14
Ls7corvete Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: FL Posts: 164	Wow, I got three people all doing the same job for me at once. Hehe. I already had my bro do the same thing last night, he just went over the curves with poly-lines and then deleted the splines. The taper is a trick though, the fins come to a point so you will always get intersecting faces with any taper. There has to be a way around this, But I have not thought of it yet.

01-15-2005, 12:17 AM	#15
JFettig Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND Posts: 504	I dont exactly know what you mean, but what you want to do is when you extrude your fins, give them a taper, like 5 degrees or something. use the extrude command to extrude your polylines. Jon

01-16-2005, 01:19 AM	#16
Ls7corvete Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: FL Posts: 164	doesnt wanna work, tried extruding them all at once with a taper, also tried tapering them afterwards. I can get one side tapered but not both.

01-16-2005, 03:20 PM	#17
Ls7corvete Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: FL Posts: 164	Well my bro did it, he has a couple models that I am pretty happy with. If you guys wanna make some and post them they will of coarse be considered. Actualy if this goes well I will offer to cast any water blocks that you guys can get printed on the prototype machine.

01-17-2005, 09:27 PM	#18
Ls7corvete Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: FL Posts: 164	Here you go guys, LMK what you think. http://james.elbbit.com/Fire/upload/...te/kevgood.dwg http://james.elbbit.com/Fire/upload/...rvete/Ktop.dwg

01-18-2005, 03:26 PM	#19
JFettig Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND Posts: 504	the base looks great, although for the top, the channel doesnt need to be that deep, I would say only half the depth. get it made!!!! Jon

01-18-2005, 03:46 PM	#20
Ls7corvete Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: FL Posts: 164	I made it that tall so that a barb could be put on the side of the block. Material costs are next to nothing for me. Even If I do this in silver the top will be in a cheaper alloy(aluminium brass?)

02-08-2005, 07:03 PM	#23
JFettig Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND Posts: 504	What happened to all the fins? I thought there were a ton more fins than that? Jon

02-08-2005, 10:09 PM	#24
Ls7corvete Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: FL Posts: 164	Your right there were, when pro*banshee saw the gap between the fins-1mm and b/c this version had no taper to the fins he knew I would not be able to cast it. So he broke off every other fin. Maybe I will try and cast it, I can see if petrobond really is that great.

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