Bleeding is no fun

LopeDogg · 03-16-2005, 11:01 AM

when i built my first system, i had a 25W pump, and it managed to force the water through, and force all the air out.
Now im running a 5W pump in my system, and the biggest pump i have lying around is a 15W 0.8m pump.
so they are both pretty useless when trying to bleed the system.

my other option is sucking on the resevior return pipe, which is crap, and soon ill be using antifreeze... i could add the antifreeze after ive bled it, but id still like another method anyways.
the tilting option doesnt work, since my PC weighs a lot now.

what do you all do?

Butcher · 03-16-2005, 12:18 PM

Use a decent pump.

Risky · 03-16-2005, 01:04 PM

Patience. Hopefully it should clear in a matter of minutes, but in time in should be cleared out, at least enough to get running.

Cyco-Dude · 03-20-2005, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LopeDogg

what do you all do?

i have designed my system so that it is self-priming, and self-bleeding. that's the easiest way

mrastudent · 03-22-2005, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cyco-Dude

i have designed my system so that it is self-priming, and self-bleeding. that's the easiest way

Plus plus

jman1310 · 03-23-2005, 01:37 AM

me too
i just pour fluid in my res and top it off later

that's it

Marci · 03-23-2005, 05:08 AM

I tend to have a fixed piping method to make bleeding easier. Pipe the whole system so that when you lay the case on it's side as tho you were gonna work on mobo side, all inlets are at bottom and outlets are at top on anything mounted on front or rear panels... except your res. Inlet at top outlet at bottom.

Fill water system as full as possible with pump off, once it's as full as u can get it, cycle pump, keep filling. Once done, switch pump off, lay the lot on it's side and most items will selfbleed round to res... cycle pump a few times. Done. Should be fully bled within 15 minutes tops from start to finish.

bobkoure · 03-23-2005, 10:46 AM

Most reservoirs (as opposed to a bottle at the end of a T-line) allow the water flow to slow down. Often that's a big help in removing bubbles. Sometimes it helps to re-orient the system a couple of times to remove bubbles from places where they're "caught" by gravity (air pockets), and you can also "burp" the system a bit by repeatedly squeezing and releasing a hose, so the water flow "pulses. Also, it's worth tapping the radiator with something hard to dislodge any bubbles that are stuck by surface adhesion.
Note that I'm usually doing this with watercooling-for-quiet systems, so it's with pumps at the low range (like the Eheim 1046 or 1048). The 1046 in particular, ahem, doesn't really move the water with a whole lot of force...

03-16-2005, 11:01 AM	#1
LopeDogg Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: South Africa Posts: 69	Bleeding is no fun when i built my first system, i had a 25W pump, and it managed to force the water through, and force all the air out. Now im running a 5W pump in my system, and the biggest pump i have lying around is a 15W 0.8m pump. so they are both pretty useless when trying to bleed the system. my other option is sucking on the resevior return pipe, which is crap, and soon ill be using antifreeze... i could add the antifreeze after ive bled it, but id still like another method anyways. the tilting option doesnt work, since my PC weighs a lot now. what do you all do?

03-16-2005, 12:18 PM	#2
Butcher Thermophile Join Date: May 2001 Location: UK Posts: 1,064	Use a decent pump. __________________ Once upon a time, in a land far far away...

03-23-2005, 05:08 AM	#7
Marci Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2003 Location: Wakefield, West Yorkshire, UK Posts: 486	I tend to have a fixed piping method to make bleeding easier. Pipe the whole system so that when you lay the case on it's side as tho you were gonna work on mobo side, all inlets are at bottom and outlets are at top on anything mounted on front or rear panels... except your res. Inlet at top outlet at bottom. Fill water system as full as possible with pump off, once it's as full as u can get it, cycle pump, keep filling. Once done, switch pump off, lay the lot on it's side and most items will selfbleed round to res... cycle pump a few times. Done. Should be fully bled within 15 minutes tops from start to finish. __________________ www.minimotosidecars.org / www.thermochill.com / www.themusiccollective.co.uk

03-16-2005, 01:04 PM	#3
Risky Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: London Posts: 96	Patience. Hopefully it should clear in a matter of minutes, but in time in should be cleared out, at least enough to get running.

03-23-2005, 01:37 AM	#6
jman1310 Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Sunny Florida Posts: 246	me too i just pour fluid in my res and top it off later that's it

03-23-2005, 10:46 AM	#8
bobkoure Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: USA - Boston area Posts: 798	Most reservoirs (as opposed to a bottle at the end of a T-line) allow the water flow to slow down. Often that's a big help in removing bubbles. Sometimes it helps to re-orient the system a couple of times to remove bubbles from places where they're "caught" by gravity (air pockets), and you can also "burp" the system a bit by repeatedly squeezing and releasing a hose, so the water flow "pulses. Also, it's worth tapping the radiator with something hard to dislodge any bubbles that are stuck by surface adhesion. Note that I'm usually doing this with watercooling-for-quiet systems, so it's with pumps at the low range (like the Eheim 1046 or 1048). The 1046 in particular, ahem, doesn't really move the water with a whole lot of force...

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