Idea for waterblock venting

Bollocks · 01-23-2002, 02:02 AM

Ok, so maybe im losing the plot here, but who cares this might be fun

I have an aopen hx08 case, which has a removeable top plate. what i want to do is duct cool air in thru the back of the case where there are two 80mm fan mounts, then up and thru the radiator which will sit just behind the floppy drive, on top of a metal bracket.

Now i dont want to have the top of my case open with a huge vent in it, because i dont want to have dust coming in when my computer is on and filling my rad up with gunk.

My idea, after being so bored i was looking at the cieling in my office at work, is to do what we have here for a natural venting system. What it is is a series of louvres which are connected to a servo, and when u flick a switch the servo turns and opens the vents up, and when u switch it back it closes down the vents.

So! After all this, I've figured a way that i can make this in a smaller scale and fit it to the top of my case, the beauty of it being that I could link it into the power supply and use a 5 or 12V servo so that when the power is turned on it opens, then when the power is turned off it either uses springs to close the shutters, or use a capacitance discharge to reverse the servo and close the shutters!

I think i can create this unit to be about 20-30mm thick, and it could be the same size as the radiator, so there would be lots of airflow and little resistance, as well as having the added bonus of not getting dust in the computer when the computer is running.

Please tell me im not going nuts,

but I think it is an awesome idea, and is pretty damn original (i hope!!!).

Can anyone see any points where i am glaringly wrong, or should revise?

Brad · 01-23-2002, 02:09 PM

it would work, but I think it is a bit of a waste of time personally. Have you thought about using Aluminium mesh? http://www.caseetc.com/cgi-bin/caseetc/F-015.html

this is the caseetc one for 120mm fans, maybe you could try finding some Al mesh that would cover the area of your radiator.

sloppycoder · 01-23-2002, 03:43 PM

i agree it would be a serious waste of time BUT that dosent stop people from putting a load of neons and windows on there cases! if you do a lot of lanning put a switch that opens your sunroof on the front and just casually flick it in the middle of a counter strike match, eyes pop all around the room and you win counterstrike methinks!

i reccomend tearing apart old cd drives as they have motors you could use (the eject one and the arm moving one) and also a little actuator. the eject one might be just what your after.

do it! you know you want too.

slop

Brad · 01-23-2002, 03:57 PM

what about having a window the size of the radiator that slides back?

Bollocks · 01-23-2002, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by sloppycoder
i reccomend tearing apart old cd drives as they have motors you could use (the eject one and the arm moving one) and also a little actuator. the eject one might be just what your after.

do it! you know you want too.

slop

perfect! didnt think of tearing up a cd drive...ive got a couple of old ones lying round too

DigitalChaos · 01-23-2002, 08:14 PM

hell yea!!!... i was trying to figure out a way to use 2 fans in parallel to pull air through my radiator... but only have the second one come on at a certain temp via some DD5 action....
a servo controlled door would be PERFECT

gonna have to do some designing here though....

hmmmm on second though that might be a bad idea..... cause the DD5 would open the door.. start the fan... and then it would get cool... and that would drop the temp... then the DD5 would untrigger everything.... this = ALOT of constant opening and closing

ech.... it was cool for like a minute

Bollocks · 01-23-2002, 08:35 PM

heheh.....that would end up sounding like a V1 rocket from ww2

grep · 01-23-2002, 08:53 PM

muscle wire, heat sensitive wire that expands and contracts to perform movement. Strong enough to operate valves, or louvers.
Alternative:
I have seen in effect memory plastic that deforms with heat. A set of plastic driving light covers that were louvered, when cold there closed, when you turn the lights on the heat causes them to deform and opens the louvers.
Alternative:
heat sensitive tracking device that tracks an oponent, then when quake is going really hot and heavy it fires a dart tipped with Cuarre poison and you win.

Brad · 01-23-2002, 09:08 PM

it wouldn't turn on like every 30 seconds or something, maybe every couple of minutes at the max, remember it would take a while to lower the water temp.

DigitalChaos · 01-24-2002, 08:53 AM

oooh yeah duh.... i already thought out the whole probe placement thing a long time ago... i just never applied it to this design...

maybe if i insulate the probe a bit... and put it in the water... that would work... it would keep warm for alot longer.. plus i would only want to trigger the fan when some near MAX cpu conditions happened

01-23-2002, 02:02 AM	#1
Bollocks Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Australia Posts: 54	Idea for waterblock venting Ok, so maybe im losing the plot here, but who cares this might be fun I have an aopen hx08 case, which has a removeable top plate. what i want to do is duct cool air in thru the back of the case where there are two 80mm fan mounts, then up and thru the radiator which will sit just behind the floppy drive, on top of a metal bracket. Now i dont want to have the top of my case open with a huge vent in it, because i dont want to have dust coming in when my computer is on and filling my rad up with gunk. My idea, after being so bored i was looking at the cieling in my office at work, is to do what we have here for a natural venting system. What it is is a series of louvres which are connected to a servo, and when u flick a switch the servo turns and opens the vents up, and when u switch it back it closes down the vents. So! After all this, I've figured a way that i can make this in a smaller scale and fit it to the top of my case, the beauty of it being that I could link it into the power supply and use a 5 or 12V servo so that when the power is turned on it opens, then when the power is turned off it either uses springs to close the shutters, or use a capacitance discharge to reverse the servo and close the shutters! I think i can create this unit to be about 20-30mm thick, and it could be the same size as the radiator, so there would be lots of airflow and little resistance, as well as having the added bonus of not getting dust in the computer when the computer is running. Please tell me im not going nuts, but I think it is an awesome idea, and is pretty damn original (i hope!!!). Can anyone see any points where i am glaringly wrong, or should revise? __________________ Bollocks -------------- Celeron 466@525 stable Plans for H20 setup in HX08

01-23-2002, 08:35 PM	#7
Bollocks Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Australia Posts: 54	heheh.....that would end up sounding like a V1 rocket from ww2 __________________ Bollocks -------------- Celeron 466@525 stable Plans for H20 setup in HX08

01-23-2002, 08:53 PM	#8
grep Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2001 Posts: 37	no motor muscle wire, heat sensitive wire that expands and contracts to perform movement. Strong enough to operate valves, or louvers. Alternative: I have seen in effect memory plastic that deforms with heat. A set of plastic driving light covers that were louvered, when cold there closed, when you turn the lights on the heat causes them to deform and opens the louvers. Alternative: heat sensitive tracking device that tracks an oponent, then when quake is going really hot and heavy it fires a dart tipped with Cuarre poison and you win. __________________ every thing is optional

01-23-2002, 02:09 PM	#2
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	it would work, but I think it is a bit of a waste of time personally. Have you thought about using Aluminium mesh? http://www.caseetc.com/cgi-bin/caseetc/F-015.html this is the caseetc one for 120mm fans, maybe you could try finding some Al mesh that would cover the area of your radiator.

01-23-2002, 03:43 PM	#3
sloppycoder Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2001 Posts: 31	i agree it would be a serious waste of time BUT that dosent stop people from putting a load of neons and windows on there cases! if you do a lot of lanning put a switch that opens your sunroof on the front and just casually flick it in the middle of a counter strike match, eyes pop all around the room and you win counterstrike methinks! i reccomend tearing apart old cd drives as they have motors you could use (the eject one and the arm moving one) and also a little actuator. the eject one might be just what your after. do it! you know you want too. slop

01-23-2002, 03:57 PM	#4
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	what about having a window the size of the radiator that slides back?

01-23-2002, 08:14 PM	#6
DigitalChaos Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Waukesha, Wi Posts: 698	hell yea!!!... i was trying to figure out a way to use 2 fans in parallel to pull air through my radiator... but only have the second one come on at a certain temp via some DD5 action.... a servo controlled door would be PERFECT gonna have to do some designing here though.... hmmmm on second though that might be a bad idea..... cause the DD5 would open the door.. start the fan... and then it would get cool... and that would drop the temp... then the DD5 would untrigger everything.... this = ALOT of constant opening and closing ech.... it was cool for like a minute

01-23-2002, 09:08 PM	#9
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	it wouldn't turn on like every 30 seconds or something, maybe every couple of minutes at the max, remember it would take a while to lower the water temp.

01-24-2002, 08:53 AM	#10
DigitalChaos Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Waukesha, Wi Posts: 698	oooh yeah duh.... i already thought out the whole probe placement thing a long time ago... i just never applied it to this design... maybe if i insulate the probe a bit... and put it in the water... that would work... it would keep warm for alot longer.. plus i would only want to trigger the fan when some near MAX cpu conditions happened

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