New Block Design...

V12|V12 · 08-13-2002, 02:31 PM

Well, here's another MS-Paint master piece... Since I'm a poor college (soon to grad on the 29th!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) student, there's not much time or money to get Digi cam pics etc.. so I've mastered the art of MS-Paint and have come up with a pretty unique (I think) waterblock design. Probably would have some flow restriction problems, and the milling would take a little while, since it's so THICK, but I think I would perform quite well, IF I could ever get it built (doubt it) Other than that, please give me your best constructive criticisms!

bigben2k · 08-13-2002, 02:37 PM

Kinda cool... It almost looks organic! I like the way you've distributed the flow.

I'm trying to figure out a way to assemble the thinnest fin in the tightest of arrangements... because I don't like big fins.

nexxo · 08-13-2002, 02:38 PM

If you make the fins wavey instead of straight, you increase surface area and coolant channels.

Bitch to mill, though.

aabtek · 08-13-2002, 05:10 PM

skivving? ... like the copper heatsinks

take a baseplate, skiv the fins, make the sides flat again, and bolt on a top.

might be cheaper than the cnc stuff...

bo v

bigben2k · 08-13-2002, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by aabtek
skivving? ... like the copper heatsinks

take a baseplate, skiv the fins, make the sides flat again, and bolt on a top.

might be cheaper than the cnc stuff...

bo v

Skiving won't perform as well.

aabtek · 08-13-2002, 05:14 PM

new idea ... take a skivved copper heatsink, saw/file/cut in some way the fins down to the appropriate height, to get enough waterflow, and machine a top to fit .... should be good enough as a prototype?

thermaltakes volcano 7+ are cheap, and easy to get and fits the above requirements ...

bo v

aabtek · 08-13-2002, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k

Skiving won't perform as well.

why? too thin? thought that was the idea here?

bo v

bigben2k · 08-13-2002, 05:46 PM

Check it out

[edit] Ignore what I wrote![/edit]
The problem is that the contact between the fins and the baseplate is not as good.

bigben2k · 08-13-2002, 05:50 PM

Never mind... It looks like the skived fin actually performs BETTER than the extruded model. It might have to do with the fact that there are twice as many fins in the skived model!

aabtek · 08-13-2002, 06:36 PM

but that is an experiment with air-coolers ...

the question is: does skiving work as well in a watercooling scenario?

V12|V12 · 08-14-2002, 04:10 PM

Hrmm, I'd hoped to get more responses, but oh well, it was something that I came up with after a night of bar hopping... It's a wonder what the drunken mind came produce, huh? Yeah milling this proposed block would be a bastard seeing as how the channels are going to be like 1" deep! Plus all the time it would take to do the CAD/CAM'ing...unless I or anyone else knows a friend that is a machinist and will kindly donate some time for a 12 pack or something, it's a pretty expensive project...something I could only dream of!

One day, I think, when I have enough money laying around and have gotten all the goodies in life, I might drop ~$1500 on an overpriced Drill pre__, er I mean "Mini-CNC-Miller" and starting playing around...What an expensive hobby?! Guess I'm going to hunt down a cheapo copper heatsink and make a block out of it.....?

MeltMan · 08-14-2002, 05:29 PM

make it a 2 piece design. Get 2 blocks of identical copper, take a saw, start cutting lines. Take the other block, mill it out to "cup" over your freashly sawed fins. The sawing motion will make the fins super rough on the sides giving you turbulance and more contact area. This block looks like the Sooper Pelt Block 'O Doom!

My 2 cents

bigben2k · 08-14-2002, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by aabtek
but that is an experiment with air-coolers ...

the question is: does skiving work as well in a watercooling scenario?

V12x2: you could use that skiving here... Skiv yourself something on a diagonal, and cut out the in/out let.

Don't ask me about how to skiv, for all my searches, skiving is a british term for skipping school/work!

utabintarbo · 08-14-2002, 09:03 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by V12|V12
Well, here's another MS-Paint master piece... Since I'm a poor college (soon to grad on the 29th!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) student, there's not much time or money to get Digi cam pics etc.. so I've mastered the art of MS-Paint and have come up with a pretty unique (I think) waterblock design. Probably would have some flow restriction problems, and the milling would take a little while, since it's so THICK, but I think I would perform quite well, IF I could ever get it built (doubt it) Other than that, please give me your best constructive criticisms!

Manufacturablity is a big problem with this design. As stated previously, it will probably have to be 2 pieces due to the depth of the channels. You would also have to make the channels wider to accomodate a reasonable size cutter (3/32 min.?). The "sawed block" idea would seem to be the most efficient/practical.

My 2 pfennigs

Bob

Can O' Beans · 08-14-2002, 11:49 PM

I too would go with the 2-piece sawed method. It would be easiest & cheapest.

If you get a good quality band-saw (blade doesn't waver all over the place), you should be able to make the fins rather thin. I used to do this at my old job (although I wasn't into WCing backthen, so it never clicked).

Milling that out with end mills would be way too expensive & take too long. You'd have to use very small mills, go slow, and you would probably still get a LOT of mill bit breakage = $$$.

V12|V12 · 08-16-2002, 06:35 PM

Hey all, thanks for the replies... The pic is just a thought, I didn't intend for everything to be so thin. The fins can be any size you want, but according to the pic, some "thin," but not too thin as to where milling would be out of the question (it is for me cause I'm poor and like to build stuff myself). You could have all the ones you can count in the pic or just have 10-20-30 etc... Aww shit, I had an actually dream before I awoke this morning about a new design, lol but I forgot it like 10secs after trying to keep the pic in my mind! Dang it! Anyhow, to get past the thickness, I'd just soon as remill the channels further down till I reach the base plate thickness desired etc... It's just a brain storm... The other 3 blocks I've got in mind, I cannot possible draw with MS-Paint and fear posted for some CNC-Affluent will plagiarrize my idea, of which I've seen too many similar postings of others stuff, okay skip that rant, sorry... anyhow, as soon as I find some prog links to CAD or anything that will allow for scalar 3D/Translucent drawing I'll post some WICKED ideas!

Bye...

08-13-2002, 02:37 PM	#2
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Kinda cool... It almost looks organic! I like the way you've distributed the flow. I'm trying to figure out a way to assemble the thinnest fin in the tightest of arrangements... because I don't like big fins. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

08-13-2002, 02:38 PM	#3
nexxo Cooling Savant Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Brimingham, UK Posts: 385	If you make the fins wavey instead of straight, you increase surface area and coolant channels. Bitch to mill, though. __________________ "There is a thin line between magic and madness"

08-13-2002, 05:46 PM	#8
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Check it out [edit] Ignore what I wrote![/edit] The problem is that the contact between the fins and the baseplate is not as good. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101 Last edited by bigben2k; 08-13-2002 at 05:51 PM.

08-13-2002, 05:50 PM	#9
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Never mind... It looks like the skived fin actually performs BETTER than the extruded model. It might have to do with the fact that there are twice as many fins in the skived model! __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

08-14-2002, 04:10 PM	#11
V12\|V12 Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Ohio-State! <--Money Hussle! SUCKS Posts: 292	Hrmm, I'd hoped to get more responses, but oh well, it was something that I came up with after a night of bar hopping... It's a wonder what the drunken mind came produce, huh? Yeah milling this proposed block would be a bastard seeing as how the channels are going to be like 1" deep! Plus all the time it would take to do the CAD/CAM'ing...unless I or anyone else knows a friend that is a machinist and will kindly donate some time for a 12 pack or something, it's a pretty expensive project...something I could only dream of! One day, I think, when I have enough money laying around and have gotten all the goodies in life, I might drop ~$1500 on an overpriced Drill pre__, er I mean "Mini-CNC-Miller" and starting playing around...What an expensive hobby?! Guess I'm going to hunt down a cheapo copper heatsink and make a block out of it.....? __________________ XP 1600+ AGOIA-Y (GreenLabel, UNLOCKED!@/ NF7-S 2.0/ PC 2700 DDR 10.5*172FSB(1806/ 1991 high), Vcore 1.792...@84.95Watts --86' Chevette Heater Core --1/2" Vinyl tubes --Via1300-Stealth Mod(QUIET!) ---Home made copper-tube block ---PVC small internal res

08-13-2002, 05:10 PM	#4
aabtek Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: aalborg.dk Posts: 19	skivving? ... like the copper heatsinks take a baseplate, skiv the fins, make the sides flat again, and bolt on a top. might be cheaper than the cnc stuff... bo v

08-13-2002, 05:14 PM	#6
aabtek Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: aalborg.dk Posts: 19	new idea ... take a skivved copper heatsink, saw/file/cut in some way the fins down to the appropriate height, to get enough waterflow, and machine a top to fit .... should be good enough as a prototype? thermaltakes volcano 7+ are cheap, and easy to get and fits the above requirements ... bo v

08-13-2002, 06:36 PM	#10
aabtek Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: aalborg.dk Posts: 19	but that is an experiment with air-coolers ... the question is: does skiving work as well in a watercooling scenario?

08-14-2002, 05:29 PM	#12
MeltMan Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: KS Posts: 374	make it a 2 piece design. Get 2 blocks of identical copper, take a saw, start cutting lines. Take the other block, mill it out to "cup" over your freashly sawed fins. The sawing motion will make the fins super rough on the sides giving you turbulance and more contact area. This block looks like the Sooper Pelt Block 'O Doom! My 2 cents __________________ MeltMan Lurker Supreme!

08-14-2002, 11:49 PM	#15
Can O' Beans Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Pa - USA Posts: 264	I too would go with the 2-piece sawed method. It would be easiest & cheapest. If you get a good quality band-saw (blade doesn't waver all over the place), you should be able to make the fins rather thin. I used to do this at my old job (although I wasn't into WCing backthen, so it never clicked). Milling that out with end mills would be way too expensive & take too long. You'd have to use very small mills, go slow, and you would probably still get a LOT of mill bit breakage = $$$.

08-16-2002, 06:35 PM	#16
V12\|V12 Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Ohio-State! <--Money Hussle! SUCKS Posts: 292	Hey all, thanks for the replies... The pic is just a thought, I didn't intend for everything to be so thin. The fins can be any size you want, but according to the pic, some "thin," but not too thin as to where milling would be out of the question (it is for me cause I'm poor and like to build stuff myself). You could have all the ones you can count in the pic or just have 10-20-30 etc... Aww shit, I had an actually dream before I awoke this morning about a new design, lol but I forgot it like 10secs after trying to keep the pic in my mind! Dang it! Anyhow, to get past the thickness, I'd just soon as remill the channels further down till I reach the base plate thickness desired etc... It's just a brain storm... The other 3 blocks I've got in mind, I cannot possible draw with MS-Paint and fear posted for some CNC-Affluent will plagiarrize my idea, of which I've seen too many similar postings of others stuff, okay skip that rant, sorry... anyhow, as soon as I find some prog links to CAD or anything that will allow for scalar 3D/Translucent drawing I'll post some WICKED ideas! Bye... __________________ XP 1600+ AGOIA-Y (GreenLabel, UNLOCKED!@/ NF7-S 2.0/ PC 2700 DDR 10.5*172FSB(1806/ 1991 high), Vcore 1.792...@84.95Watts --86' Chevette Heater Core --1/2" Vinyl tubes --Via1300-Stealth Mod(QUIET!) ---Home made copper-tube block ---PVC small internal res

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