About to purchase my water cooling kit

[ColdFlare]

I was wondering if you guys can give me some last minute advice.
This is what I am buying.

Maze 3 Lucite top, brass fittings 1/2 Stainless steal mounting hardware.

Eheim 1250 pump with 3/8 to 1/2 adapter.

Now heres a questions would this heatercore

http://www.dangerden.com/images/heat...core_large.gif

Be better than the black ice extreme? I think the first heatercore has bigger dimension, and I could make a shroud for it with some aluminum lying around.

And last I am purchasing some 10 feet of tygon 1/2id and 3/4od, would that be enough for a antec 1040 case? Are the dimensions of my tygon correct? Woudl I need any hose clamps?

Oh yea, I'm going to buy a T line too so that i could add some hose giong up to bleed the system and use it to fill it also.
I would skip the tee line if you guys could recommend me a good res that doesnt have any problems with build up of bubbles. I heard awful things about the dangerden clear res and bubbles.

Are all my hardware compatable? This is my first time biulding a watercooler, but i wil be precise and test it very stressfully before i install it in my system tho.

The whole thing would run me around 200 bucks from dangerden, if you guys could offer me a better deal that would be great.

Does anyone know of any watercooling business that would ship usps? I am not very fond of the ups guy around here, and school is about to start so i might not be around to pick up the stuff.

Any response would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[shaft01]

I think you will get roughly the same opinion from most regarding the heater core vs BIX.......The heater core will walk ALL OVER the BIX.......

But it depends on what you are looking for......performance vs being pretty. Hose clamps would be a GOOD idea......but not those little plastic things......use HOSE CLAMPS I personally dont care for the closed loop applications (no reservoir) but many use it with great success.

[ColdFlare]

Ahhh thats so nice to hear shaft01 thanx, because the BIX cost so much more than the heatercore. I'm gonna get the heatercore instead. Thanx for the reply, are my tygon sizes ok? All brass fittings on my system are going to be 1/2in should i purchase the tygon with 1/2id and 3/4od?

What do you mean about the hose clamps? Do you mean the metal ones? The ones at dangerden are plastic.

I really do want a res tho, it would make filling the system so much easier. So could you recommend a good res for me?

I personally dont care about looks, i just want one that gives me the best temps.

Does anyone know how good shipping from dangerden is? are they quick? If i order today would it go out today? How long will i get my stuff? I live in new york

[DarkEdge]

I wouldn't be getting the clear top version if I was you. I've had one screw me over, and so have others. Just safer to use copper.

[bigben2k]

Originally posted by shaft01
I think you will get roughly the same opinion from most regarding the heater core vs BIX.......The heater core will walk ALL OVER the BIX.......

Yup...

If you want the Maze 3, consider getting the copper top, and using poly barbs.

For the pump, you mean 3/4 to 1/2, right?

The res is not a problem, if you keep the waterline above both inlet and outlet, and you originally clean your system with alcohol. It's also going to depend on the additive you use. You can top the res with a sponge inside, if you have to.

The rad doesn't have to come from DD: you can pick it up at your local auto part store, and save yourself some money too. Also, you can get a slightly bigger one than they have there.

We can't tell you what length tygon to get: just use a measuring tape, and figure it out. Add a foot or 2 to allow for "errors"...

If you want to save money, use a cheaper pump, like a Via Aqua 1300, rated about the same as that Eheim 1250 (see the front page). You can make your own res, from anything, like a Rubbermaid container.

And yeah, definitely use real hose clamps...

[ColdFlare]

Well on the dangerden page, they have the eheim 1250 and on the drop down pull down menu you can select the 3/8 to 1/2 adapter.

Is the via aqua as good as the eheim quality wise? I really dont want this pump to fail and destroy all the hardware. I have heard very good things about eheim but via, not much.

For the tygon i mean is 1/2id and 3/4od the right size? I think 10 feet is totally enough for my case tho.

[bigben2k]

The Via is probably not as good, but for the price, you really can't beat it. I'm thinking about using more than one in my system.

Your Tygon is OK.

The Eheim website (can u guess the URL?) says that it's got 3/4 intake and 1/2 outlet. The adapters that DD sells are hose adapters, not pump adapters (they're already included).

You shouldn't need any adapters.

[nexxo]

Just my penny's worth: I own a BIX (chrome version, yum!), but chose it for size reasons only; the heatercore indeed boasts superior performance. If you can accomodate it, go for it.

There, you can't get more impartial than this.

[bigben2k]

Originally posted by nexxo
Just my penny's worth: I own a BIX (chrome version, yum!), but chose it for size reasons only; the heatercore indeed boasts superior performance. If you can accomodate it, go for it.

There, you can't get more impartial than this.

He he, that's as impartial as it gets!

[ColdFlare]

Oh alright so my eheim i shoudl just buy without anything added everything is already included ahh good. That knocks another 4 bucks off my purchase.

For the heatercore, i'll probably put it outside my case, I dont need to fit it in, since i dont go to any lans. I'm mostly doing this for superior performance at a lower noise level than my delta on swiftech heatsink.

So heres to sum it up.

Maze 3 Lucite top, brass fittings 1/2 Stainless steal mounting hardware.

Eheim 1250 pump.

heatercore.

10 feet of tygon 1/2id 3/4od

And metal hose clamps I'll look for those in a local hardware store.

I'll try to build my own res with a cylindrical clear pvc pipe or something.

One last question, maze3 poly fittings or brass? Which would be stronger?

[bigben2k]

The brass will be stronger, but what do you need the strenght for? The problem with metal barbs is that you're back fighting the battery effect.

Go for the poly barbs. You could go for the clear top, with those.

[shaft01]

Originally posted by ColdFlare

Maze 3 Lucite top, brass fittings 1/2 Stainless steal mounting hardware.

As someone already stated......you might want to think about the lucite topped blocks.......I have read stories from a number of people about them developing leaks.......I dont recall seeing one story about the full copper versions leaking.

Originally posted by ColdFlare

I'll try to build my own res with a cylindrical clear pvc pipe or something.

Here is a couple of options for you.......



3" or 4" PVC (white, $5) or ABS (black $2) pipe coupling
Small sheet of clear .093 lexan (8x10 at Lowes building supply here for $3) to cover the ends of the coupling.....some small brass screws or machine screws if you want to thread the holes. $3
A couple of 1/2" pipe nipples (coupling) $4 and some silicone for sealing the lexan to the coupling along with the screws. And finally some JB weld for sealing the nipples you mount thru the coupling.....When done you have a see thru reservoir you can put some UV dye in the water and mount a light behind it......Looks GOOD! Building one myself using the 4" ABS.......

or you can use my temporary solution......as seen here:



The jar is a $9 lab quality polybutalene and the cap is made for drilling out for fittings......Got it from here : McMasterCarr I drilled out the bottom (which will be my top) for the rubber stopper.

The fittings came from Lowes Hardware.......The flow indicator came from here: Gems Sensors

Originally posted by ColdFlare

One last question, maze3 poly fittings or brass? Which would be stronger?

I see folks saying poly but have no preference myself......Obviously the brasss is stronger though

[bigben2k]

Thanks for the sensor link, I've been looking for one!

[shaft01]

Originally posted by bigben2k
The brass will be stronger, but what do you need the strenght for? The problem with metal barbs is that you're back fighting the battery effect.

Go for the poly barbs. You could go for the clear top, with those.

Hmmmm in order for the battery effect to occur the water has to be the electrolyte which conducts current between the two......since the brass fittings would be screwed into the water block there would be no current for the water to carry as they are grounded out so to speak......

Which brings up something I have thought about for a while.....applying that same principal.......if you ground your radiator to your waterblock using a ground strap of some sort would that not once and for all eliminate the battery effect even to the point of using an aluminum radiator with a copper water block and not even having to use an anti corrosive additive? Thats a theory I will prove or disprove soon

[bigben2k]

You'll disprove it.

It's a known phenomenon, especially in construction, where bolts and washers of different metals rust heavily, as they're exposed to the elements.

If the water touches the block (and it does) and it touches the barbs (and it does), then there will be galvanic corrosion.

Water, distilled water, additives, it doesn't matter, it still happens, but at a slower speed with the additives.

Grounding strap, no strap, it makes no difference. It's as inescapable as oxygen in the air.

[shaft01]

Originally posted by bigben2k
You'll disprove it.

It's a known phenomenon, especially in construction, where bolts and washers of different metals rust heavily, as they're exposed to the elements.

If the water touches the block (and it does) and it touches the barbs (and it does), then there will be galvanic corrosion.

Water, distilled water, additives, it doesn't matter, it still happens, but at a slower speed with the additives.

Grounding strap, no strap, it makes no difference. It's as inescapable as oxygen in the air.

Ahh but water actiing as the electrolyte for this "battery effect" I would imagine speeds up the process quite a bit.......If it is no longer the "ground" between the two dissimilar metals such as aluminum rad and copper block would that not inhibit the effect to *some* degree?

[bigben2k]

Well let's see now... In order to ground the Alu and copper parts, you'd use a copper wire, right?

You might crimp that wire to a steel pin, so that you can screw it into something, 'cause you'd be hard pressed to find copper connectors. And this would connect to the Aluminium, right?

I think you might induce a higher differential, which would accelerate the galvanic effect.

Let us know how it goes

[shaft01]

Originally posted by bigben2k
Well let's see now... In order to ground the Alu and copper parts, you'd use a copper wire, right?

You might crimp that wire to a steel pin, so that you can screw it into something, 'cause you'd be hard pressed to find copper connectors. And this would connect to the Aluminium, right?

I think you might induce a higher differential, which would accelerate the galvanic effect.

Let us know how it goes

heheh......now that I would have to disagree with.......I dont see how it could possibly be worse.......

[ColdFlare]

Alright the last and most important question.

Do you think this setup will beat my swiftech 462 with delta ehe on 7v temperatures?

I hate to blow my money on this setup and have it get around the same temps.

[shaft01]

Originally posted by ColdFlare
Alright the last and most important question.

Do you think this setup will beat my swiftech 462 with delta ehe on 7v temperatures?

I hate to blow my money on this setup and have it get around the same temps.

I wont go there........will it? It should at least be as cool......will it? Who knows? There is only one way you will answer that question......

[bigben2k]

Originally posted by shaft01
heheh......now that I would have to disagree with.......I dont see how it could possibly be worse.......

Well, according to Alessandro Volta here this external "stack" of different metals on the outside would form a dry battery.

But, ok, before that, let's say you use a copper wire, to connect a copper block to an Al rad: you'd have the battery effect happening at that junction where the copper wire meets the Aluminium rad. Back to square one.

One idea often suggested is to induce a voltage to reverse the battery effect. The problem is maintaining an exact voltage to the actual difference, but otherwise it would work.

For those interested, the potential difference between these two metals is (theoretically) 2.04 volts.

[bigben2k]

Originally posted by ColdFlare
Alright the last and most important question.

Do you think this setup will beat my swiftech 462 with delta ehe on 7v temperatures?

I hate to blow my money on this setup and have it get around the same temps.

It depends on the fittings on that 462. If you've got the 3/8, then yes, you'll get an improvement (but you could just switch those barbs too!).

Otherwise, no, the improvement will be marginal. What do you have right now?

[ColdFlare]

What do i have now? I am using air cooling, swiftech mc462 model with a delta ehe fan at 7v pushing about 40+cfm.

I am just wondering because i am looking for better temps.

My temps right now as we speak is 45 c idle, and about 53 max at 2.14 volts running a 1736mhz 1800+.

ambient in my room is 26c.

[bigben2k]

Oh that 462!!!

Yes, your temps will drop 10 deg C.

[ColdFlare]

10c? Wow that is amazing, please let it be true you are getting me all excited. I guess i will order my setup then.

10c and it being a lot more quieter is going to be a blessing.