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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
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#1 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Da UP
Posts: 517
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Here's the skinnards on the innards folks,
The interior is designed to distribute waterflow velocity equally throughout. The center goes down to 1mm thickness at 4mm diameter. Each pie wedge is permiated throughout with waterflow tunnels and the top surface of each pie wedge recieves waterflow, controlled by top gasket. The diagonal channels are blocked by the 2nd layer encasement and are drilled out to a larger diameter hole. Water is forced down the center inlet then through the six verticle slots and over the top surface. The water which goes through the diagonal channels with the larger tunnel is forced into the tunnels drilled through each pie wedge and exits on all four sides up through the 2nd and third layers and out the four exit tubes. The rest you may be able to tell from this preview Surface area is immense in the small confined cube of 1.3" X 1.3", the flow rate I can run through it is high, the temperatures that result are low. And yes it does involve the use of a bandsaw Opinions appreciated. ![]() |
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#2 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,538
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Got any pictures without the fancy white-over glaze?
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#3 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Da UP
Posts: 517
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#4 | |
Thermophile
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,538
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![]() (Check your PM at OCAU) |
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#5 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Slovenia
Posts: 468
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Nice job, from my first succesfull experiment with multy level tops some time ago, I design most of my blocks that way, you can even the flow across the block, but I just complicate a little more to make one outlet
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#6 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Da UP
Posts: 517
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Thanks morphling1.
Let me express a neato factoid here, the base is done with zero use of any mill bits or milling. Bandsaw and drillpress. |
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#7 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Da UP
Posts: 517
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Another pic of the base.
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#8 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Da UP
Posts: 517
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Water contact surface area estimation.
32 lower holes = 1008^2mm 364 308 196 140 8 upper holes (12 X 4.5 X 8) = 432^2mm 8 upper holes (7 X 4.5 X 8) = 252^2mm 8 upper holes (4 X 4.5 X 8) = 144^2mm 4 slot sides (8 X 12 X 8) - 40% = 461^2mm 4 slot bottoms (1.5 X 12 X 4) = 72^2mm 4 slot sides (20 X 8 X 8) - 40% = 768^2mm 4 slot bottoms (1.5 X 20 X 4) = 120^2mm 4 exposed tops (12 X 12 X 4) = 576^2mm 4 outsides (32 X 8 X 4) - 40% = 614^2mm center 13^2mm Total estimated exposed surface area = 4447 ^2mm in a 32mm X 32mm X 8mm cube |
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#9 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Da UP
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I must say, for a waterblock design/construction forum, the lack of interest is astounding. Oh well, each to their own click I guess.
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#10 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location:
Posts: 264
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Are you sure your thread didn't get pushed way down because of the server crash?
Your block looks awesome, but I am having some trouble understanding how the water flows through it. Perhaps a diagram would help? In your first pic, it looks like you have many of these blocks lined up. Are you planning on selling them? I wonder how many people would tolerate the resultant hose mess. |
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#11 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin
Posts: 294
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I second koslov, looks good, but I'd like a super close up of the base and lid side-by-side to get a really good idea of how it works.
Any numbers on the temps you're getting? |
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#12 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Da UP
Posts: 517
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koslov, yes I have made many to test so far
![]() Here's a shot of the base and lid assembly as they join together. ![]() And a close up one with rule. ![]() Here's my rig I test in, I don't consider it to be cluttered. The tubing is longer than needed because I cut ends off as I test and swap blocks, this way I can use the tubing a few times before it is too short and without clamps. ![]() |
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#13 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Nuu Zeeelin
Posts: 3,175
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lol - just how many outlets do you really need?
awesome design btw, did you get the idea from xjinn's block?
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#14 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
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#15 |
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of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
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XJinn is the fella that made a cross-drilled block (5 rows/layers, with 1/2 side intake and outlet).
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#16 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Da UP
Posts: 517
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Cross drilled blocks have been around for quite some time and I believe they were the first DIY types to be made. My design has many more aspects to it, high flow, central impingement, short flow paths, high surface area in small form factor, multiple exits, multiple bp thickness, multi stage, cross platform mounting, clear lexan, gasket sealer, to name a few uniquely combined characteristics. |
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#17 |
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I think Brad was asking if the cross-drilled design was an inspiration, that's all.
You block is definitely different. Can't wait to see temps! |
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#18 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Da UP
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Just didn't want anyone to get the wrong idea
![]() Here's a clearer shot of some bases I didn't post here yet. ![]() |
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#19 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Nuu Zeeelin
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xjinn made the first bong, as well as his super cross drilled block. I don't have any pics of it off hand.
I agree your block is much more advanced, I'm just not sure if it will provide better performance or not...
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2x P3 1100's at 1400, Abit VP6, 2x Corsair 256mb PC150 sticks, 20gb 'cuda ATA-III, 2x 40gb 'cuda ATA-IV in raid 0. 20" Trinitron. No fans 2x 2400+ at 2288mhz (16.0 x 143), Iwill MPX2, 2x Kingmax PC-3200 256mb sticks, 4x 20gb 60gxp in Raid 5 on a Promise SX6000. Asus Ti4200 320/630. Cooled by Water |
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#20 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: in a nice cool spot
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[edit] oh G_F, how's your band saw blade holding up against the copper? (wear wise)
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#21 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Da UP
Posts: 517
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Cuts like butter, and I'm still on the same blade. I have a 1HP floor model bandsaw, plenty of power with 93" blades. ![]() |
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#22 |
Put up or Shut Up
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 6,506
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Looking good! I like the "No Milling" approch aswell. Good work!
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#23 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: In Hell
Posts: 322
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performance specs!!!!! performance specs !!!!!!!
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#24 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Da UP
Posts: 517
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Thanks for the comments everyone
![]() I modified the Spiral I have to not only fit on the P4 this time, but it now has 5/8" OD hosebarbs. I will be using it for comparisons to my block. I used 1/2" Lexan and just kept the O-ring in place for some testing and used the original screws for a quick fix. I am going to get it back to the owner (I swapped a twenty spot for it) with the AMD holes drilled out and use a full size gasket and heavier cap screws with washers. (The original top was cracked) Here's a shot, has anyone ran it with larger barbs? ![]() |
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#25 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Da UP
Posts: 517
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I finally got around to flowtesting the modded Spiral when connected to the loop. The amazing fantastic plastic bucket we all so love to hate
![]() ![]() 240gph. The Equalizer block? 14 seconds, to even my amazement for how confined the passageways are. 250gph My earlier block, the large cone, was chugging along at 360gph as a flowrate comparison for my system. And I also lapped the IHS. Light lapping on the left pic and complete lapping on the right pic. Can you see the inital unevenness? ![]() |
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