![]() | ||
|
|
Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
![]() |
Thread Tools |
![]() |
#1 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Pa - USA
Posts: 264
|
![]()
As posted on my case mod worklog on Pheaton.com, this is my prototype waterblock I've been working on.
I took a Thermaltake 1U skived copper heatsink and turned it into a waterblock. I figured the thin fins and straight thru design would give a good waterflow combined with good surface area - and it was cheap. $16 for the heatsink and I had everything else laying around the house. The fins have a rough texture to them due to the skiving process. The original: ![]() The Transformation: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I removed 5/8" of fins on each side, then the remaining copper was milled out by hand with a 1/8" carbide Dremel bit on a Drill press :shrug: The base is 1/10" - a bit on the thick side, but I had nothing to mill it any thinner with and I didn't want to spend days trying to lap it with coarser sandpaper ![]() The plexi, well.. I had a bunch of 1/4" plexy laying around, and I didn't want to spend any more money on a prototype. It's 4 laminations of 1/4" plexiglass ![]() It will have 2 1/2" hose x 1/4" NPT hose barbs on each side. Water will be split down one end, thru the fins and out the other end. If I don't screw it up, I might actually sand down the sides & flame polish it for a final production piece. I have a 2nd heatsink that, if it fits, will be adapted into a GPU block. It's currently cooling my P4 1.6A @ 2.13Ghz until I slap this thing on it. I've been planning this for a while. Someone else found this HS before I did and started a waterblock, but I don't know who(and haven't been able to find), so I can't give the props due. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: in a nice cool spot
Posts: 427
|
![]()
I did a similar thing a while back with the exact same heatsink, works quite well even with very low flow rates, though mines been through quite a few changes...
[edit], found my old thread here
__________________
feel free to icq/msn me, I'm always willing to toss around ideas. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Pa - USA
Posts: 264
|
![]()
Ah yes, THATS the thread I was trying to find - lol
![]() Would probably get better results if the base was milled down a bit more. With all the vert fins, it should be pretty strong with a very thin base. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Just shut up ;) ...
Posts: 1,068
|
![]()
I'd like to see a centred inlet version, I think that'd be excellent for TEC cooling with its large footprint. comparing it to Cathars block with a small footprint...
A wicked heatsink made for H2o conversion for sure, surprised more peeple hav'nt done it... Anyone know of a UK supplier? ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Wigan UK
Posts: 929
|
![]() Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Posts: 2,371.493,106
Posts: 4,440
|
![]()
Volenti
I thought yours had soldered fins ?? |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Just shut up ;) ...
Posts: 1,068
|
![]()
Cheers Les!
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: in a nice cool spot
Posts: 427
|
![]() Quote:
__________________
feel free to icq/msn me, I'm always willing to toss around ideas. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Pa - USA
Posts: 264
|
![]()
I was considering making a center inlet. Had 1/2" of plexi to work with and figured I could make a wide & thin slot for the water to enter through.
For $16 US (Newegg), you could easily get a few of them & test with different numbers fins and if you had access to a mill, thin the baseplate out more. If my uncle gets another machining job, I'm going to try to incorporate the 2nd one I have into a GF4 block - IF it will fit (don't have GF4 GPU & RAM dimensions) |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Pa - USA
Posts: 264
|
![]()
Well, I used Plumber's GOOP to seal the block, but that was a VERY BAD idea
![]() The GOOP's fumes caused cracks "sunbursting" around every single drilled hole in the plexi. Nothing was tightened down fully yet, and it cracked on the yet non-used P4 holes, so it wasn't due to me over-tightening anything. It was a prototype, but it still sucks. I cleaned the GOOP from the barbs and put them back in sealed with Weld-On #16 (thicker) to try to seal the cracks. So far, it doesn't leak with full-on house tap water flowing through it, but the cracks are slowly getting bigger. Since I might have to junk the top, I added a little "flare" for the hell of it... (with some internal condensation from the leak testing) ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#11 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Rathdrum, ID
Posts: 380
|
![]()
You should use the same stuff that D-Tek uses on the barbs of the spir@l. I don't know what it is, but it never dries like glue and never turns rubbery(is that a word?) like silicon. Seems to be some sort of clear grease.:shrug:
__________________
**This space for rent** |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Da UP
Posts: 517
|
![]()
Just use a gasket. You have enough screw mounts. I recently (as of yesterday) had to change my waterpump on my vehicle, what a pain in the ass to put it mildly. Anyway, the only thing keeping that sucker from leaking is a 1/16" paperlike gasket and it is not recommended to use any gasket sealer goop or it will cause the gasket to travel. If it is good enough for a vehicle waterpump then there should not be any worries about using such an application on a tiny copper waterblock.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#13 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: U.S.A = Michigan
Posts: 1,243
|
![]()
What about using a belt sander like you use on flooring to grind down the base until close to the final thickness desired?
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#14 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin
Posts: 294
|
![]()
From my experience with belt sanders, it would:
A. Have a tendency to yank the WB right out of your hand (and pitch it across the workshop at high velocity, if it doesn't hit you first) B. Take material off too quickly C. Take material off unevenly, b/c of A & B Then again, I've only worked with two oversized belt sanders (8"x~80" belt...), and one palm sander. <off-topic>IBDA: http://www.beltsander-races.com/</off-topic> |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#15 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Pa - USA
Posts: 264
|
![]()
Well, I did it the way I did due to having most of that stuff on hand
![]() I did try a gasket. It was neoprene foam rubber (kids placemat) but it ended up being open cell foam (although very tiny cells). I was going to order 1/32" Neoprene rubber (not foam) but never got around to it. Also, if I put in a gasket, it leaves a space between the fins and top of the inside, which wouldn't be ideal. I can always build a new top. I'll just have to find out who sells Lexan around here. Home Depot only has 1/8" ![]() I used to "lap" (sand ![]() But, at home, all I have in that category is a Dewalt 1/4 sheet random orbital palm sander. I tried it, I'd be there for HOURS. This block still seems salvageable for now, until I pay off some bills & get more $$ on hand. If I didn't have the bills, I would already have a CNC mill ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#16 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Rathdrum, ID
Posts: 380
|
![]() Quote:
![]() ![]() ![]()
__________________
**This space for rent** |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#17 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin
Posts: 294
|
![]() Quote:
![]() Just put a big blob in and press two pieces of lexan together until the glue squirts out the sides (think 'microscope slide'), and keep good pressure on it until it dries (about 5m in this instance). I have found that it is basically impossible to tell that the plastic was ever two separate pieces, especially after working the plastic with a dremel and file. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#18 |
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
|
![]()
If it's any help...
You can purchase a polycarbonate sheet sample from McMaster. It's 6" by 6", 1/4 thick. $1.97 I'm about to place an order, so if you want to dodge their shipping charge, let me know! The thing is, CyanoAcrylate probably won't work so well. I haven't found a clear adhesive, but I have this 2 part beige stuff that someone else here tested and tried. From my research, the solution is either a 2 part epoxy, or something called MethaAcrylate. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#19 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Pa - USA
Posts: 264
|
![]()
I was debating wether the Weld-On adhesive would work with lexan or not...
I'd prefer a copper top, but don't have a mill, so I'll come up with something ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#20 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin
Posts: 294
|
![]() Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#21 | |
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
|
![]() Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#22 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Southern California
Posts: 4
|
![]()
WELD-ON 16 is a clear thick cement ideal for laminating acrylic and lexan sheets.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#23 |
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
|
![]()
Nice, but it's an industrial product. Can it be bought pretty much anywhere?
I also found their (new) polycarbonate section, but they have no specs ![]() http://www.ipscorp.com/ind_html/polycarb.html |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#24 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Southern California
Posts: 4
|
![]() Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#25 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Quebec
Posts: 46
|
![]()
BTW Bigben2k Lexan and polycarbonate are the same thing, Lexan is just a trademark name for polycarbonate.
Using a glue especially for acrylic, you won't see the difference except if there are any bubbles between the sheets |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|