My WB prototype

Can O' Beans · 11-15-2002, 06:46 AM

As posted on my case mod worklog on Pheaton.com, this is my prototype waterblock I've been working on.

I took a Thermaltake 1U skived copper heatsink and turned it into a waterblock. I figured the thin fins and straight thru design would give a good waterflow combined with good surface area - and it was cheap. $16 for the heatsink and I had everything else laying around the house. The fins have a rough texture to them due to the skiving process.

The original:

The Transformation:

I removed 5/8" of fins on each side, then the remaining copper was milled out by hand with a 1/8" carbide Dremel bit on a Drill press :shrug: The base is 1/10" - a bit on the thick side, but I had nothing to mill it any thinner with and I didn't want to spend days trying to lap it with coarser sandpaper

The plexi, well.. I had a bunch of 1/4" plexy laying around, and I didn't want to spend any more money on a prototype. It's 4 laminations of 1/4" plexiglass

I tweaked the hell out of it when tapping the pipe thread, and it held up with no stress cracks, etc...

It will have 2 1/2" hose x 1/4" NPT hose barbs on each side. Water will be split down one end, thru the fins and out the other end.

If I don't screw it up, I might actually sand down the sides & flame polish it for a final production piece. I have a 2nd heatsink that, if it fits, will be adapted into a GPU block. It's currently cooling my P4 1.6A @ 2.13Ghz until I slap this thing on it.

I've been planning this for a while. Someone else found this HS before I did and started a waterblock, but I don't know who(and haven't been able to find), so I can't give the props due.

Volenti · 11-15-2002, 06:53 AM

I did a similar thing a while back with the exact same heatsink, works quite well even with very low flow rates, though mines been through quite a few changes...

[edit], found my old thread here

Can O' Beans · 11-15-2002, 06:58 AM

Ah yes, THATS the thread I was trying to find - lol

Would probably get better results if the base was milled down a bit more. With all the vert fins, it should be pretty strong with a very thin base.

MadDogMe · 11-15-2002, 08:20 AM

I'd like to see a centred inlet version, I think that'd be excellent for TEC cooling with its large footprint. comparing it to Cathars block with a small footprint...

A wicked heatsink made for H2o conversion for sure, surprised more peeple hav'nt done it...

Anyone know of a UK supplier?

...

Les · 11-15-2002, 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by MadDogMe

Anyone know of a UK supplier? ...

Try http://www.theoverclockingstore.co.u...&codeid=800938

BillA · 11-15-2002, 09:52 AM

Volenti

I thought yours had soldered fins ??

MadDogMe · 11-15-2002, 09:55 AM

Cheers Les!

...

Volenti · 11-15-2002, 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by unregistered
Volenti

I thought yours had soldered fins ??

No I used the exact same heatsink as Can O' beans, skivved.

Can O' Beans · 11-15-2002, 08:31 PM

I was considering making a center inlet. Had 1/2" of plexi to work with and figured I could make a wide & thin slot for the water to enter through.

For $16 US (Newegg), you could easily get a few of them & test with different numbers fins and if you had access to a mill, thin the baseplate out more.

If my uncle gets another machining job, I'm going to try to incorporate the 2nd one I have into a GF4 block - IF it will fit (don't have GF4 GPU & RAM dimensions)

Can O' Beans · 11-30-2002, 10:59 PM

Well, I used Plumber's GOOP to seal the block, but that was a VERY BAD idea

The GOOP's fumes caused cracks "sunbursting" around every single drilled hole in the plexi. Nothing was tightened down fully yet, and it cracked on the yet non-used P4 holes, so it wasn't due to me over-tightening anything.

It was a prototype, but it still sucks. I cleaned the GOOP from the barbs and put them back in sealed with Weld-On #16 (thicker) to try to seal the cracks. So far, it doesn't leak with full-on house tap water flowing through it, but the cracks are slowly getting bigger.

Since I might have to junk the top, I added a little "flare" for the hell of it... (with some internal condensation from the leak testing)

FRAGN'STIEN · 12-01-2002, 12:12 AM

You should use the same stuff that D-Tek uses on the barbs of the spir@l. I don't know what it is, but it never dries like glue and never turns rubbery(is that a word?) like silicon. Seems to be some sort of clear grease.:shrug:

gone_fishin · 12-01-2002, 04:22 PM

Just use a gasket. You have enough screw mounts. I recently (as of yesterday) had to change my waterpump on my vehicle, what a pain in the ass to put it mildly. Anyway, the only thing keeping that sucker from leaking is a 1/16" paperlike gasket and it is not recommended to use any gasket sealer goop or it will cause the gasket to travel. If it is good enough for a vehicle waterpump then there should not be any worries about using such an application on a tiny copper waterblock.

Blackeagle · 12-01-2002, 07:46 PM

What about using a belt sander like you use on flooring to grind down the base until close to the final thickness desired?

Arcturius · 12-01-2002, 08:56 PM

From my experience with belt sanders, it would:
A. Have a tendency to yank the WB right out of your hand (and pitch it across the workshop at high velocity, if it doesn't hit you first)
B. Take material off too quickly
C. Take material off unevenly, b/c of A & B

Then again, I've only worked with two oversized belt sanders (8"x~80" belt...), and one palm sander.

<off-topic>IBDA: http://www.beltsander-races.com/</off-topic>

Can O' Beans · 12-01-2002, 11:25 PM

Well, I did it the way I did due to having most of that stuff on hand

I did try a gasket. It was neoprene foam rubber (kids placemat) but it ended up being open cell foam (although very tiny cells). I was going to order 1/32" Neoprene rubber (not foam) but never got around to it. Also, if I put in a gasket, it leaves a space between the fins and top of the inside, which wouldn't be ideal.

I can always build a new top. I'll just have to find out who sells Lexan around here. Home Depot only has 1/8"

I used to "lap" (sand

) many various pieces of metal at a previous employer. It was an 8" wide belt sander and they modified it & put a metal bar across the sand paper, and one down each side. You could literally just place something on the moving sandpaper & it would just sit there, getting sanded away.

But, at home, all I have in that category is a Dewalt 1/4 sheet random orbital palm sander. I tried it, I'd be there for HOURS.

This block still seems salvageable for now, until I pay off some bills & get more $$ on hand. If I didn't have the bills, I would already have a CNC mill

FRAGN'STIEN · 12-02-2002, 12:45 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Arcturius

<off-topic>IBDA: http://www.beltsander-races.com/</off-topic>

[off-topic]

I may have just discovered a second hobby

Look at the little wheelie bar on that thing

[/off-topic]

Arcturius · 12-02-2002, 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Can O' Beans
I can always build a new top. I'll just have to find out who sells Lexan around here. Home Depot only has 1/8"

Where I live, only 1/8" lexan is readily available as well. You might be pleased to know that I have had great luck building it up in layers using cyanoacrylate ( super glue

).
Just put a big blob in and press two pieces of lexan together until the glue squirts out the sides (think 'microscope slide'), and keep good pressure on it until it dries (about 5m in this instance).

I have found that it is basically impossible to tell that the plastic was ever two separate pieces, especially after working the plastic with a dremel and file.

bigben2k · 12-02-2002, 08:37 PM

If it's any help...

You can purchase a polycarbonate sheet sample from McMaster. It's 6" by 6", 1/4 thick.

$1.97

I'm about to place an order, so if you want to dodge their shipping charge, let me know!

The thing is, CyanoAcrylate probably won't work so well. I haven't found a clear adhesive, but I have this 2 part beige stuff that someone else here tested and tried. From my research, the solution is either a 2 part epoxy, or something called MethaAcrylate.

Can O' Beans · 12-02-2002, 11:18 PM

I was debating wether the Weld-On adhesive would work with lexan or not...

I'd prefer a copper top, but don't have a mill, so I'll come up with something

Arcturius · 12-02-2002, 11:57 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
The thing is, CyanoAcrylate probably won't work so well.

Are you talking about joining pieces of lexan, or the lexan top to the copper sink? I've been more than pleased with the results of bonding lexan...

bigben2k · 12-03-2002, 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Arcturius
Are you talking about joining pieces of lexan, or the lexan top to the copper sink? I've been more than pleased with the results of bonding lexan...

No, I was referring to polycarbonate.

TomC · 12-03-2002, 01:32 PM

WELD-ON 16 is a clear thick cement ideal for laminating acrylic and lexan sheets.

bigben2k · 12-03-2002, 01:47 PM

Nice, but it's an industrial product. Can it be bought pretty much anywhere?

I also found their (new) polycarbonate section, but they have no specs

http://www.ipscorp.com/ind_html/polycarb.html

TomC · 12-03-2002, 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
Nice, but it's an industrial product. Can it be bought pretty much anywhere?

I also found their (new) polycarbonate section, but they have no specs
http://www.ipscorp.com/ind_html/polycarb.html

It can be bought at plastic supply stores (look in the Yellow Pages) or on the web. I am lucky enough to have one a few miles from me. This place also sells "scraps" which can be small to quite large pieces usually less than 1" thick. Lexan is $4.00 per pound. They even have teflon etc.

nuclear · 12-03-2002, 03:03 PM

BTW Bigben2k Lexan and polycarbonate are the same thing, Lexan is just a trademark name for polycarbonate.
Using a glue especially for acrylic, you won't see the difference except if there are any bubbles between the sheets

11-15-2002, 06:53 AM	#2
Volenti Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: in a nice cool spot Posts: 427	I did a similar thing a while back with the exact same heatsink, works quite well even with very low flow rates, though mines been through quite a few changes... [edit], found my old thread here __________________ feel free to icq/msn me, I'm always willing to toss around ideas.

12-01-2002, 12:12 AM	#11
FRAGN'STIEN Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Rathdrum, ID Posts: 380	You should use the same stuff that D-Tek uses on the barbs of the spir@l. I don't know what it is, but it never dries like glue and never turns rubbery(is that a word?) like silicon. Seems to be some sort of clear grease.:shrug: __________________ This space for rent

12-02-2002, 08:37 PM	#18
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	If it's any help... You can purchase a polycarbonate sheet sample from McMaster. It's 6" by 6", 1/4 thick. $1.97 I'm about to place an order, so if you want to dodge their shipping charge, let me know! The thing is, CyanoAcrylate probably won't work so well. I haven't found a clear adhesive, but I have this 2 part beige stuff that someone else here tested and tried. From my research, the solution is either a 2 part epoxy, or something called MethaAcrylate. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

12-03-2002, 01:47 PM	#23
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Nice, but it's an industrial product. Can it be bought pretty much anywhere? I also found their (new) polycarbonate section, but they have no specs http://www.ipscorp.com/ind_html/polycarb.html __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

11-15-2002, 06:46 AM	#1
Can O' Beans Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Pa - USA Posts: 264	My WB prototype As posted on my case mod worklog on Pheaton.com, this is my prototype waterblock I've been working on. I took a Thermaltake 1U skived copper heatsink and turned it into a waterblock. I figured the thin fins and straight thru design would give a good waterflow combined with good surface area - and it was cheap. $16 for the heatsink and I had everything else laying around the house. The fins have a rough texture to them due to the skiving process. The original: The Transformation: I removed 5/8" of fins on each side, then the remaining copper was milled out by hand with a 1/8" carbide Dremel bit on a Drill press :shrug: The base is 1/10" - a bit on the thick side, but I had nothing to mill it any thinner with and I didn't want to spend days trying to lap it with coarser sandpaper The plexi, well.. I had a bunch of 1/4" plexy laying around, and I didn't want to spend any more money on a prototype. It's 4 laminations of 1/4" plexiglass I tweaked the hell out of it when tapping the pipe thread, and it held up with no stress cracks, etc... It will have 2 1/2" hose x 1/4" NPT hose barbs on each side. Water will be split down one end, thru the fins and out the other end. If I don't screw it up, I might actually sand down the sides & flame polish it for a final production piece. I have a 2nd heatsink that, if it fits, will be adapted into a GPU block. It's currently cooling my P4 1.6A @ 2.13Ghz until I slap this thing on it. I've been planning this for a while. Someone else found this HS before I did and started a waterblock, but I don't know who(and haven't been able to find), so I can't give the props due.

11-15-2002, 06:58 AM	#3
Can O' Beans Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Pa - USA Posts: 264	Ah yes, THATS the thread I was trying to find - lol Would probably get better results if the base was milled down a bit more. With all the vert fins, it should be pretty strong with a very thin base.

11-15-2002, 08:20 AM	#4
MadDogMe Thermophile Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Just shut up ;) ... Posts: 1,068	I'd like to see a centred inlet version, I think that'd be excellent for TEC cooling with its large footprint. comparing it to Cathars block with a small footprint... A wicked heatsink made for H2o conversion for sure, surprised more peeple hav'nt done it... Anyone know of a UK supplier? ...

11-15-2002, 09:52 AM	#6
BillA CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered" Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Posts: 2,371.493,106 Posts: 4,440	Volenti I thought yours had soldered fins ??

11-15-2002, 09:55 AM	#7
MadDogMe Thermophile Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Just shut up ;) ... Posts: 1,068	Cheers Les! ...

11-15-2002, 08:31 PM	#9
Can O' Beans Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Pa - USA Posts: 264	I was considering making a center inlet. Had 1/2" of plexi to work with and figured I could make a wide & thin slot for the water to enter through. For $16 US (Newegg), you could easily get a few of them & test with different numbers fins and if you had access to a mill, thin the baseplate out more. If my uncle gets another machining job, I'm going to try to incorporate the 2nd one I have into a GF4 block - IF it will fit (don't have GF4 GPU & RAM dimensions)

11-30-2002, 10:59 PM	#10
Can O' Beans Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Pa - USA Posts: 264	Well, I used Plumber's GOOP to seal the block, but that was a VERY BAD idea The GOOP's fumes caused cracks "sunbursting" around every single drilled hole in the plexi. Nothing was tightened down fully yet, and it cracked on the yet non-used P4 holes, so it wasn't due to me over-tightening anything. It was a prototype, but it still sucks. I cleaned the GOOP from the barbs and put them back in sealed with Weld-On #16 (thicker) to try to seal the cracks. So far, it doesn't leak with full-on house tap water flowing through it, but the cracks are slowly getting bigger. Since I might have to junk the top, I added a little "flare" for the hell of it... (with some internal condensation from the leak testing)

12-01-2002, 04:22 PM	#12
gone_fishin Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Da UP Posts: 517	Just use a gasket. You have enough screw mounts. I recently (as of yesterday) had to change my waterpump on my vehicle, what a pain in the ass to put it mildly. Anyway, the only thing keeping that sucker from leaking is a 1/16" paperlike gasket and it is not recommended to use any gasket sealer goop or it will cause the gasket to travel. If it is good enough for a vehicle waterpump then there should not be any worries about using such an application on a tiny copper waterblock.

12-01-2002, 07:46 PM	#13
Blackeagle Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: U.S.A = Michigan Posts: 1,243	What about using a belt sander like you use on flooring to grind down the base until close to the final thickness desired?

12-01-2002, 08:56 PM	#14
Arcturius Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin Posts: 294	From my experience with belt sanders, it would: A. Have a tendency to yank the WB right out of your hand (and pitch it across the workshop at high velocity, if it doesn't hit you first) B. Take material off too quickly C. Take material off unevenly, b/c of A & B Then again, I've only worked with two oversized belt sanders (8"x~80" belt...), and one palm sander. <off-topic>IBDA: http://www.beltsander-races.com/</off-topic>

12-01-2002, 11:25 PM	#15
Can O' Beans Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Pa - USA Posts: 264	Well, I did it the way I did due to having most of that stuff on hand I did try a gasket. It was neoprene foam rubber (kids placemat) but it ended up being open cell foam (although very tiny cells). I was going to order 1/32" Neoprene rubber (not foam) but never got around to it. Also, if I put in a gasket, it leaves a space between the fins and top of the inside, which wouldn't be ideal. I can always build a new top. I'll just have to find out who sells Lexan around here. Home Depot only has 1/8" I used to "lap" (sand ) many various pieces of metal at a previous employer. It was an 8" wide belt sander and they modified it & put a metal bar across the sand paper, and one down each side. You could literally just place something on the moving sandpaper & it would just sit there, getting sanded away. But, at home, all I have in that category is a Dewalt 1/4 sheet random orbital palm sander. I tried it, I'd be there for HOURS. This block still seems salvageable for now, until I pay off some bills & get more $$ on hand. If I didn't have the bills, I would already have a CNC mill

12-02-2002, 11:18 PM	#19
Can O' Beans Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Pa - USA Posts: 264	I was debating wether the Weld-On adhesive would work with lexan or not... I'd prefer a copper top, but don't have a mill, so I'll come up with something

12-03-2002, 01:32 PM	#22
TomC Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Southern California Posts: 4	WELD-ON 16 is a clear thick cement ideal for laminating acrylic and lexan sheets.

12-03-2002, 03:03 PM	#25
nuclear Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Quebec Posts: 46	BTW Bigben2k Lexan and polycarbonate are the same thing, Lexan is just a trademark name for polycarbonate. Using a glue especially for acrylic, you won't see the difference except if there are any bubbles between the sheets

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