Water Block Idea...

jaydee · 01-10-2003, 04:04 PM

This is not what I need to be thinking about right now, especially at work. But i have been rumaging through dozens of threads looking for info on what to do to build my test bed with.

Well While doing that I have seen a lot of interesting ideas for blocks and a few things poped into my mind.

Basically it would have a similar Lemon shape outer channel as my Lemon Block, but the pins would be replaced with other options which a will try to make a drawing when I get home. Then I would have a water "injector" simlar to the concept of Dodge Vipers modified Barb but instead it would be made into an middle section of the block OR into the top peice itself with a pipe soldered over it. This injector would spray over the core area of the CPU. Similar to a show head. Best of all I think I can make the base out of a single peice of 1/8" copper.

With the equipment i have at work the pattern in that peice can be done in minutes and also with the equipment at work the middle section can be done in minutes.

Maybe I should keep my mouth shut on this one.....

bigben2k · 01-10-2003, 04:19 PM

Yeah, shut up... otherwise I'll tell you about making the middle part threaded, so that you can try different nozzles...

jaydee · 01-10-2003, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
Yeah, shut up... otherwise I'll tell you about making the middle part threaded, so that you can try different nozzles...

Well the nozel will be drilled into either the top peice or the middle peice, but I hear what you are saying. I might just make the nozzle big enough to have the holes in it and then cut out a section in the middle peice to I can just unscrew the top, pop out the nozzle and pop in a new one. Although I don't think this nozzel with have much room for design change. I might actually have to cruch some numbers on this one, or find someone who can explain to me the math anyway.

This is one of those things that send shivers down your spine just thinking about it. Thin base, lots of nozzle pressure, plenty of turbulance, high flow rate, can be made in an hour or less.... mmmmmm

jaydee · 01-11-2003, 04:37 PM

Well I got a little to exited. As I was drawing this out I discovered a flaw in my 1/8" thick base. I do not belive I can use just a 1/8" thick peice of copper as it will not be thick enough to propery thread screws into as they cannot go past the bottom of the baseplate.

So a modification had to be made. I decided to go with 1/4" instead and mill out 1/8" of the center part so I still have 1/8" to make the base design with. This will allow for proper threading and will also let me put the O ring groove in that base aswell as opposed to putting it in the acrylic center piece. I would then add another 1/4" top plate for the inlets/outlet(s). The top and bottom peices will be 2"x 2" while the center acrylic peice will be 2"x3" and will have the mounting holes for the AMD boards. Or I may very well just make the bottom peice 2"x3" and put the holes in it for the mounting holes. That would be more stable for mounting I would think. The shorter the screws the less possibility of side to side movement. I should have 1/2" on each side to play with so I think I can do that although I havn't put it on paper yet.

As for what will happen in the center of the base peice....

I have some 1/4" AL laying around and plenty of acrylic at work to make a working prototype. If that goes well I will order some copper. The only real milling of this block is going to be milling out the center down to 1/8". With a 3/8" endmill I should be able to do that in 15mins. The design in the middle will be done with the CNC but with a drill bit instead of an endmill for precision (also a hint

). That will take roughly 5 mins. The Acrylic middle will be cut out with the laser at work which will take about 2 mins. The top peice, if I decide to use copper instead of acrylic, will take a little time to drill outthe barb holes and then tap them. It will also need a O ring groove cut into it. probably another 20mins.

I will not have time to get started on this untill tomorrow, but I should have the top and bottom peices done with the O rings and I will go into work early Monday and cut the center acrylic peice.

The center acrylic peice will have the nozzle holes lasered into it. Aslo note lasering the acrylic peice's also eliminates the microfractures caused by drilling so cracking should not be much of a problem.

In any event I should have a working AL prototype Monday night.

That should bring up any errors in design so I will not waste any of the Copper when I get it.

Only minor problems I have now are outlet positions. Going to be cramped.

jaydee · 01-12-2003, 02:44 PM

Well I am back to the 1/8" plate! I belive I can thread it and still have enough to put screws in it without it pulling out. I have a couple 2"x2"x1/8" AL plates cut and I am about to hook up the CNC mill to make the design in the base. I will probably end up making the O ring groove in the acrylic middle section or maybe not use an O ring at all and just use the silicone I usually use. Anyway later tonight I should have the cam working again and I will post some pics of what all my rambling is about.

jaydee · 01-12-2003, 06:46 PM

I got the base made. Version 1 anyway.

My capature card is not being detected by Winblows XP Pro so my cam is still down. Will hook it up tp another comp when I complete this thing as I have a bunch of other stuff I need to take pics of to.

Anyway the base it 1/8" thick. Where the core of the CPU is it has pits I drilled into the block that are 1/16" wide at the top and taper down into nothing. Similar in #Rotor's design exept I only used 1/2"x1/2" of the area in the center of the base! I am going to have an inlet directly ontop of the pits. I have a few idea about the nozzel;
1) Not use one at all.
2) Do I high volocity one similar top Cathars.
3) Do a shower head type like Dodge Vipers.

Being I will use acrylic for the peice with the nozzel making new ones will be extreamly simple with the lazer at work. Couple slight adjustments with Correl Draw 9 and hit print.

It will literaly take about 2 minutes to make the center peice with the nozzel and all the holes. I am still not sure if 1/8" will be thick enough for the base yet though. I will find out when I get all the peices to put together.

The top peice will also be acrylic. That will cut time and costs waaay down. I do not see any reason to use metal if the center will be acrylic. Stength shouldn't be much of an issue either so I am not worried about it breaking. I may very well have to 1/4" for the base though. That would add some milling time.

My goal for this block is not high performance, but a easy to make yet decent performance block for entry level or quite cooling applications at a low price with a copper base

I do not see to many decent performance low cost blocks. Might find myself in a decent market.

jaydee · 01-13-2003, 01:59 PM

I got done with the rest of the work on the lazer so I cut the acrylic peices.

I was very off on how long it would take to cut them out. This time I needed 3 peices of acrylic cut. One to sit on top of the base with the hole cut in it to allow water to flow, this peice is 1/8" and will be replaced later by just milling the 1/8" hole on the base which will end up being 1/4". The second peice is the peice with the shower head nozzel in the middle. I thought it would take 2 minutes to cut but I was wrong. It took 49 seconds, also 1/8".

The last peice is the top peice with just the holes for the barbs. It is 1/4" and took 39 seconds to cut out. All the peices have 6 holes for the screws to hold it all together aswell. Parts wise I got less than 20mins into it so far. All the peices are all cut out. Now I just need to drill and tap the holes in the base, tap the holes for the barbs, and seal it. The acrylic peices will be sealed with acrylic epoxy and the base to the acrylic will be clear silicone this time around. This one i will have to make some kind of mounting plate to mount it. The final design will probably have this in the base. I will try to get my damn cam hooked up tonight and show the peices I have done. I will start a new thread for this though and stop rambling here.

Puzzdre · 01-13-2003, 03:14 PM

Quote:

I will try to get my damn cam hooked up tonight and show the peices I have done.

I'm looking forward to see the pic's!

LiquidRulez · 01-13-2003, 05:46 PM

Yeah. Me too!
MAybe a sketch of some sort will suffice......

nicozeg · 01-13-2003, 07:16 PM

Or maybe a quick CAD screenshot to hold the hungry multitude?

jaydee · 01-13-2003, 08:01 PM

Trying to hook the cam up now. I even made the right top and did a little engraving on it with the laser.

I cannot put it together tonight but I have all the peices here. Check back soon. I will post a new thread and post a link here. Still early in development but I think it will end up good!

jaydee · 01-13-2003, 08:48 PM

http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...7429#post57429

01-10-2003, 04:04 PM	#1
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	Water Block Idea... This is not what I need to be thinking about right now, especially at work. But i have been rumaging through dozens of threads looking for info on what to do to build my test bed with. Well While doing that I have seen a lot of interesting ideas for blocks and a few things poped into my mind. Basically it would have a similar Lemon shape outer channel as my Lemon Block, but the pins would be replaced with other options which a will try to make a drawing when I get home. Then I would have a water "injector" simlar to the concept of Dodge Vipers modified Barb but instead it would be made into an middle section of the block OR into the top peice itself with a pipe soldered over it. This injector would spray over the core area of the CPU. Similar to a show head. Best of all I think I can make the base out of a single peice of 1/8" copper. With the equipment i have at work the pattern in that peice can be done in minutes and also with the equipment at work the middle section can be done in minutes. Maybe I should keep my mouth shut on this one.....

01-10-2003, 04:19 PM	#2
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Yeah, shut up... otherwise I'll tell you about making the middle part threaded, so that you can try different nozzles... __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

01-11-2003, 04:37 PM	#4
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	Well I got a little to exited. As I was drawing this out I discovered a flaw in my 1/8" thick base. I do not belive I can use just a 1/8" thick peice of copper as it will not be thick enough to propery thread screws into as they cannot go past the bottom of the baseplate. So a modification had to be made. I decided to go with 1/4" instead and mill out 1/8" of the center part so I still have 1/8" to make the base design with. This will allow for proper threading and will also let me put the O ring groove in that base aswell as opposed to putting it in the acrylic center piece. I would then add another 1/4" top plate for the inlets/outlet(s). The top and bottom peices will be 2"x 2" while the center acrylic peice will be 2"x3" and will have the mounting holes for the AMD boards. Or I may very well just make the bottom peice 2"x3" and put the holes in it for the mounting holes. That would be more stable for mounting I would think. The shorter the screws the less possibility of side to side movement. I should have 1/2" on each side to play with so I think I can do that although I havn't put it on paper yet. As for what will happen in the center of the base peice.... I have some 1/4" AL laying around and plenty of acrylic at work to make a working prototype. If that goes well I will order some copper. The only real milling of this block is going to be milling out the center down to 1/8". With a 3/8" endmill I should be able to do that in 15mins. The design in the middle will be done with the CNC but with a drill bit instead of an endmill for precision (also a hint ). That will take roughly 5 mins. The Acrylic middle will be cut out with the laser at work which will take about 2 mins. The top peice, if I decide to use copper instead of acrylic, will take a little time to drill outthe barb holes and then tap them. It will also need a O ring groove cut into it. probably another 20mins. I will not have time to get started on this untill tomorrow, but I should have the top and bottom peices done with the O rings and I will go into work early Monday and cut the center acrylic peice. The center acrylic peice will have the nozzle holes lasered into it. Aslo note lasering the acrylic peice's also eliminates the microfractures caused by drilling so cracking should not be much of a problem. In any event I should have a working AL prototype Monday night. That should bring up any errors in design so I will not waste any of the Copper when I get it. Only minor problems I have now are outlet positions. Going to be cramped.

01-12-2003, 02:44 PM	#5
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	Well I am back to the 1/8" plate! I belive I can thread it and still have enough to put screws in it without it pulling out. I have a couple 2"x2"x1/8" AL plates cut and I am about to hook up the CNC mill to make the design in the base. I will probably end up making the O ring groove in the acrylic middle section or maybe not use an O ring at all and just use the silicone I usually use. Anyway later tonight I should have the cam working again and I will post some pics of what all my rambling is about.

01-12-2003, 06:46 PM	#6
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	I got the base made. Version 1 anyway. My capature card is not being detected by Winblows XP Pro so my cam is still down. Will hook it up tp another comp when I complete this thing as I have a bunch of other stuff I need to take pics of to. Anyway the base it 1/8" thick. Where the core of the CPU is it has pits I drilled into the block that are 1/16" wide at the top and taper down into nothing. Similar in #Rotor's design exept I only used 1/2"x1/2" of the area in the center of the base! I am going to have an inlet directly ontop of the pits. I have a few idea about the nozzel; 1) Not use one at all. 2) Do I high volocity one similar top Cathars. 3) Do a shower head type like Dodge Vipers. Being I will use acrylic for the peice with the nozzel making new ones will be extreamly simple with the lazer at work. Couple slight adjustments with Correl Draw 9 and hit print. It will literaly take about 2 minutes to make the center peice with the nozzel and all the holes. I am still not sure if 1/8" will be thick enough for the base yet though. I will find out when I get all the peices to put together. The top peice will also be acrylic. That will cut time and costs waaay down. I do not see any reason to use metal if the center will be acrylic. Stength shouldn't be much of an issue either so I am not worried about it breaking. I may very well have to 1/4" for the base though. That would add some milling time. My goal for this block is not high performance, but a easy to make yet decent performance block for entry level or quite cooling applications at a low price with a copper base I do not see to many decent performance low cost blocks. Might find myself in a decent market.

01-13-2003, 01:59 PM	#7
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	I got done with the rest of the work on the lazer so I cut the acrylic peices. I was very off on how long it would take to cut them out. This time I needed 3 peices of acrylic cut. One to sit on top of the base with the hole cut in it to allow water to flow, this peice is 1/8" and will be replaced later by just milling the 1/8" hole on the base which will end up being 1/4". The second peice is the peice with the shower head nozzel in the middle. I thought it would take 2 minutes to cut but I was wrong. It took 49 seconds, also 1/8". The last peice is the top peice with just the holes for the barbs. It is 1/4" and took 39 seconds to cut out. All the peices have 6 holes for the screws to hold it all together aswell. Parts wise I got less than 20mins into it so far. All the peices are all cut out. Now I just need to drill and tap the holes in the base, tap the holes for the barbs, and seal it. The acrylic peices will be sealed with acrylic epoxy and the base to the acrylic will be clear silicone this time around. This one i will have to make some kind of mounting plate to mount it. The final design will probably have this in the base. I will try to get my damn cam hooked up tonight and show the peices I have done. I will start a new thread for this though and stop rambling here.

01-13-2003, 05:46 PM	#9
LiquidRulez Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: In Hell Posts: 322	Yeah. Me too! MAybe a sketch of some sort will suffice......

01-13-2003, 07:16 PM	#10
nicozeg Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Santiago, Chile Posts: 403	Or maybe a quick CAD screenshot to hold the hungry multitude?

01-13-2003, 08:01 PM	#11
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	Trying to hook the cam up now. I even made the right top and did a little engraving on it with the laser. I cannot put it together tonight but I have all the peices here. Check back soon. I will post a new thread and post a link here. Still early in development but I think it will end up good!

01-13-2003, 08:48 PM	#12
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...7429#post57429

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)