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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
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#1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: us
Posts: 75
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If i remember correctly a few years back ford introduced a plan to retrofit a lot of thier auto's to run peanut oil instead of water/antifreeze in thier cars. this is all from memory so please bear with me, but it kept the engine about 30% cooler and also only needed about 1/3 the amount of fluid. This is currently why porsche oil cools. better cooling hence less wear and tear. I was curious if anyone has tried peanut oil since it's properties are way better than what most currently use for heat transfer. I'm 100% serious here guys so please dont take this as a joke post. oh yeah the reason i've not tried yet is because i'm still working on my first water cooled system
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#2 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Gloucester, Virginia
Posts: 356
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We fried a Turkey in Peanut Oil. Does that count
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Dual Pentium!!! 933@1107 Liquid Cooled. |
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#3 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Dallas
Posts: 339
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Yeah I tried oil, corn oil
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#4 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: in my chair
Posts: 574
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it was bad.. how? What could I expect. Would a better pump work better with oil?
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#5 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Dallas
Posts: 339
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After running it for about an hour the oil viscosity change where the pump could not push it any more. Cleaning my setup was horrible and the numbers where not great at all. I had better results with water and water wetter. :shrug:
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#6 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: us
Posts: 75
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hrmmm i wonder if peanut oil or an engine cooling oil would work better, those i'm fairly sure would not tend to lose thier viscosity.
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#7 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Croatia
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What kind of block (what's the diff from waterblock) is used in oil cooling? Baseplate thickness (what's better, thinner, thicker)?
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#8 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: us
Posts: 75
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from my knowledge (limited) the water block shouldn't make much if any difference in it's design. i was curious about the use of peanut oil and possibly an engine coolant oil like porsche uses because it's able to transfer heat better (well from the stuff i've seen anyway) but remember this is from observations and reading's i have seen and have yet to try anything.
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#9 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Malta, Mediterranean
Posts: 662
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What are it's properties? Viscousity, density, chemical formulae, boiling and melting points?
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#10 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 78
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why dont u try mineral oil... if my memory serves me right, sum ppl used to dump a whole computer in the stuff. it doesnt conduct elec, and its not that heavy of an oil, and it wood even lub the pump.
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#11 |
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You might consider the fact that the oil was far less viscous at the temp the engine was running at, which is why it would work well.
It could be done in a comp, but you'd have to compensate for the viscosity with a good pump, and that's either going to add a lot of pump heat, or cost too much. Pumping a viscous liquid from a mag drive probably isn't the best idea, so you're looking at another type of pump, which will be noisier. Also, using water, it's relatively easy to get a lot of turbulence, which improves cooling a lot. With an oil, achieving turbulence may be unpractical. I think you should try it. You'll have to obtain the viscosity figure of the oil, and spec a pump that can accept that liquid. |
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#12 |
Been /.'d... have you?
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Moscow, ID
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You hit the nail on the head, Ben. The viscosity is different at engine temperatures (normally around 180F-205F). At the temps we're dealing with, you'll end up with sludge.
Further, with the mag-drive pumps we're using, it will absolutely destroy the pump over time, since they are not designed to use such a thick fluid as a drive shaft lubricant. Good idea, if you're running your machine at near-burnout temperatures, but for our uses, this will not work at all. I would not recommend even attempting to try this as an experiment since you will likely damage your equipment permanently.
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#13 |
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Like I said, the pump would (more than likely) have to be different.
My Little Giant 2-MDQ-SC can handle (I think) a viscosity of 2 cP (twice water), so I assume that all mag drives can handle something in a lower range. I have peanut oil that I use for frying, and I'm pretty sure that the viscosity is way higher than water, so the pump will have to be different. I wouldn't dismiss the idea, it is a good one, but given the noise of the required pump, it's gonna defeat a silent objective. But if the pump isn't anywhere near the computer... |
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#14 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Dallas
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Don't forget that due to the viscosity, you will have a great deal of trouble acheiving anything resembling high flow. Even if the specific heat of the oil is twice that of water, I doubt you are going to acheive half the flow (gpm). Result? Worse cooling performance. ....and let's not forget the mess.
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#15 |
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Actually, once a pump is found, it's not that bad.
The main problem is that you'd more than likely be facing a lot of pressure, so the tubing may have to be a bit thicker, and MOST DEFINITELY clamped! |
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#16 |
Cooling Savant
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Yeah, you can find a pump Ben, but the real problem with high viscosity (even with a big pump) is that it affects the boundary layer thickness (adversely). Oils with low enough viscosity around room temperature tend to be a little on the volatile side for my taste.
I agree with the others, stick to peanut oil for frying turkeys. I'm doing one Saturday for the youngest kid's birthday. |
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#17 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Well, what you want to be using for pumping oils is a miniature Quimby Screw Pump. Now I have absolutely no idea on how or where you could buy one, not to mention the high cost of one even if you could buy it, but it'd be one way to ensure decent flow rates.
Quimby Screw Pumps typically form the basis of hydraulic devices. Exceptionally high pressure (up to 2500PSI) coupled with exceptionally high flow (up to 5000gpm for large models - yes - no typo there - gallons per minute), provided you power them appropriately. I did see a little one about 12in long with a clear polycarbonate shell to you could see the insides. I'd love to have that... |
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#18 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2002
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Water is by far the best usable liquid for transfering heat.
Personally I've only used peanut oil for frying a turkey. And I think it's been said, I think it might work at temeratures higher than we would like to see. |
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#19 |
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina
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mmm how about gasoil?? the one used by diesel engines??
anybody knows how good it is thermal capabilty?? |
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#20 |
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I'm gonna refer ya'll to this article titled "Data on Coolants and Liquids Used in Computer Watercooling", by Scott Gamble, aka r0ckstarbob.
Gasoil wasn't mentionned, so I have to assume that it wasn't worth looking at, besides, isn't it flammable? |
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#21 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2002
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I've yet to give up on the oil idea. Anyway today while talking to a friend who does a lot of electrical work we were discussing water cooling computers so i figured what the heck ask him if he knows of any oils that are thin (similar to like a household 3 in 1 oil) and wont lose viscosity. He brought up a very interesting idea, around here on large transformers they use an oil similar to what i was talking about. he used to put them up on polls for electrical work. inside the fins on them is a special oil (he is going to get me the name of it) used for cooling the transformers. he told me that it shouldn't lose it's viscosity and is very thin like i was looking for. anyway when i get the name of it i'll let ya know.
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#22 |
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Good! Don't give up yet!
Googling, I found that Texaco (now Chevron/Texaco) makes a transformer cooling oil: http://library.cbest.chevron.com/lub...56c410059c747/$FILE/IO-22240.pdf IT has a kinematic viscosity of 8.8 centistokes, at 40 deg C, and changes to 2.3 at 100 deg C. According to the Electric Energy Society of Australia, mineral oil is now used, replacing the old PCB (polychlorinated byphenyls) oils, which turned out to be highly carcinogenic. http://www.aeema.asn.au/conf2002/zip...slav_Kovar.pdf |
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#23 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Alberta, Canada
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wow is all i kan say here, u guys mentioned mineral oil for cooling. if i remember right, that guy who dumped his whole comp in the oil was goin after sub zero temps. it was a 2 part system. the oil was in one loop system and it was being chilled by the second loop. the 2nd part was doin the work and it was done by Tec's. now i dont know y it was a 2 loop system, but it was... maybe in a month or so, i might try this idea my self. i have a abit BE6II and a p3-450. it wood be interestin to see if this wood work gud, i just hate to clean everything up afterwards tho
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#24 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2002
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ok, been doing some more digging and have come up with a few more things, so i have lots of questions. First off where i'm at currently the oil's in the tranformers still have bad bad things in them they are looking at changing that out so i'll have to wait to see about that oil. As for oil's i have found, there is a way oil that is used in machining that i am going to try, but first i have a friend who runs a screw machine shop. they use a very fine oil there for this exact purpose, and lubricant too i am going to try that first. However i am curious if i should do any modification's to the block i will be using, it's made in a similar fashion to this one
http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=5208 since i will be using an oil instead of a water mixture should i underclock the cpu first? should i make any mod's to the fins also taller/shorter? and anything else anyone might be able to think up would be appreciated too. |
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#25 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Alberta, Canada
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well what im goin to do to my old p2 450@504 is find the biggest bad assed heatsink i kan find (a dell job thats passive cooling) and ill hook up my digi doc via temp probes as close as possible to the chips and other hot spots. ill do sum normal testin out of the mineral oil styrofoam cooler, that i made up for this project... with a few days tesing i should be able to get sum temps and then ill dump it into the oil bath. now i have to get sum oil
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