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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
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#1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: UBC
Posts: 13
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Hi
I'm a student, and I've got access to a fairly complete machine shop at the university here. I've decided on a 3-barb #rotor style block, because of it's good performance at low flows, and simplicity. I'm wondering if anyone has a good printable template I could use. I can understand if one doesn't exist as it could be seen as stealing his work. Also, the particular shop I was working in had 12.5mm tinned copper barstock. Will this tinning cause any problems? I guess if I lap the bottom I'll take it all off anyways. I'm also not really sure what pump to use. The rio 800 and 1100 are both (cheap and available) options. Initially I was just going to go with the 1100 as it has nearly double the flowrate, but I wasn't certain it would be a good idea in a low-flow design such as #rotor's. I'm going to run submerged, and silence is a definite issue, so I'm wondering if it might add more heat to the system than it's worth. I'll be running 1/2" if it makes any difference. Thanks |
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#2 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: in a nice cool spot
Posts: 427
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I've used tinned bar before to make blocks, the tinning is pretty thin and as you said, by the time you finish lapping it properly it's all gone anyway.
Go with the smaller pump especially if quiet is a primiary objective, some of the larger capacity pumps of this type can be a little noisy even when submerged.
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feel free to icq/msn me, I'm always willing to toss around ideas. |
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#3 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: in my chair
Posts: 574
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My submerged pump running while the machine and radiator fans off will add 6C to the system and stay there. Since you are considering 24 hours and it never going up from there, that is not "a lot" of heat going into the system. The rad can easily dissipate that heat with little to no effect to my overall cooling. The only effects MAY be the different in the extreem overclock. But im not trying for that, so its ok.
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#4 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Dione, sector 4s1256
Posts: 852
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do not worry about using more flow on my design.... the more the better, the fact that my design has the ability to work well with minimal flow rates, does in no way take any performance from it, when you have the ability to give it good flow.
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#5 | |
Pro/Guru - Uber Mod
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Indiana
Posts: 834
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(I don't actually know what the bar is likely plated with. Maybe just tin which is fairly innocuous.) |
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#6 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: UBC
Posts: 13
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cool, thanks for all the replies. I'm gonna talk to the place I buy the pump, and see if they'll exchange the 1100 for the 800 if I find the noise unacceptable.
Anyone have any help with a template? |
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#7 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Croatia
Posts: 969
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Here, courtesy of #Rotor himself, click the white pic near bottom of the page...
![]() http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...5&pagenumber=3 Good luck!!!
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'Out of cheese error... ...please reboot the universe (press the GBL to continue)' |
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#8 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: UBC
Posts: 13
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thanks puzzdre and #rotor
Am I right in thinking I'll have to modify #rotor's design slightly to make it fit on socketA using the socket lugs? I was planning on making my own retention system. I wonder if I can even do a 3 barb design in the space allowed.. |
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#9 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: UBC
Posts: 13
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answered my own question by cracking the case and breaking out a ruler.. looks like my board will accomodate anything up to 58x78mm. woohoo.
I'm thinking 12.5mm barstock with 9mm deep holes. I've never really seen a definitive answer as how to best variate the depth, so I'll just stick with a constant one I guess. Last edited by genesis; 03-08-2003 at 03:04 AM. |
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