block comments wanted

Mr.Bluestar · 05-17-2003, 03:53 PM

As I was very interested in watercooling but I wouldn't spend a fortune to buy one, I decided to make my own waterblock. Because I can't mill my own block and didn't want to make a very difficult explanation to the guy who actually is going to make it (after his normal hours

) , I designed a very straight block.

This is almost the block as it is installed on my XP1800+@2250Mhz - 1.9V on a Abit NF7-s ver 1.2 The only difference is that the plexi top has changed by copper one, hard soldered together. I had too much troubles with cracks in the plexi. The base of the block is 15mm thick. The mill is 12mm deep. The copper top is 5mm thick. My temps are about 51°C after a few hours full stress.
The rest of the setup are a Eheim 1048 pump (600l/h), a copper rad from a japanese van (it's about 20 cm * 12cm) and a home made airtrap.
My hopes were to have a temperature about 40 to 45 °C. Do you guys think these temps are quite normal with this block? And what would you advice for the next block to come?

hara · 05-17-2003, 04:03 PM

How thick is the plexy. Seems too thin and could give you problems.

TerraMex · 05-17-2003, 04:12 PM

> The only difference is that the plexi top has changed by copper
> one, hard soldered together

Someone didnt read the whole post

.

Just a question : Where are you reading those temp values?

Mr.Bluestar · 05-17-2003, 04:14 PM

The plexi top isn't there anymore! I changed it to a copper top to get rid of the cracking problems. I thought it was also 5mm.

Mr.Bluestar · 05-17-2003, 04:34 PM

The temps are read with MBM. But in the BIOS they are the same. I don't have any other thermometer to measure the CPU-temp acurate.

Pritorian · 05-17-2003, 06:13 PM

Is there a gap between the top and the channels? looks like it when u had the plexi top on and that would not be good for direction all of the flow..?

-P-

Mr.Bluestar · 05-17-2003, 06:53 PM

No, there is no gap. With the plexi still on I could check that quite nice.
But what I really like to know is that if I had a less thick baseblock the temps would be better. Or if I had to mill a bit deeper or .... That kind of things.

Mr.Bluestar · 05-19-2003, 12:37 PM

You're not telling me that almost nobody has got a clue?
Come on guys, let that grey stuff up there do some work

pHaestus · 05-19-2003, 12:43 PM

TBredBs at 2250 and 1.9V is a lot of watts from a very small spot. That's why temperatures are high. You may indeed get better results with a thinner base. I don't have the link in front of me right now, but Cathar at the overclockers australia forums tested out several maze type blocks from silverprop with a variety of bases. I am thinking he liked the thinner baseplates but it has been a long time since I read it. I will look around for it in a bit.

pHaestus · 05-19-2003, 01:14 PM

Found it:

http://forums.overclockers.com.au/sh...e&pagenumber=3

15mm base would seem to be too big. Try 3?

Mr.Bluestar · 05-19-2003, 04:24 PM

Tnx mate. I'm reading it right now. I'm quite sure now that 15mm is too thick. Hey, but maybe not to bad for a first attempt, is it?

pHaestus · 05-19-2003, 04:26 PM

No the worksmanship is quite good. And there is nothing like DIY, eh? I am feeling the urge bigtime to buy a drill press and make a few waterblocks.

Pritorian · 05-19-2003, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by pHaestus
No the worksmanship is quite good. And there is nothing like DIY, eh? I am feeling the urge bigtime to buy a drill press and make a few waterblocks.

Your not the only one!

05-17-2003, 03:53 PM	#1
Mr.Bluestar Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Belgium Posts: 9	block comments wanted As I was very interested in watercooling but I wouldn't spend a fortune to buy one, I decided to make my own waterblock. Because I can't mill my own block and didn't want to make a very difficult explanation to the guy who actually is going to make it (after his normal hours ) , I designed a very straight block. This is almost the block as it is installed on my XP1800+@2250Mhz - 1.9V on a Abit NF7-s ver 1.2 The only difference is that the plexi top has changed by copper one, hard soldered together. I had too much troubles with cracks in the plexi. The base of the block is 15mm thick. The mill is 12mm deep. The copper top is 5mm thick. My temps are about 51°C after a few hours full stress. The rest of the setup are a Eheim 1048 pump (600l/h), a copper rad from a japanese van (it's about 20 cm * 12cm) and a home made airtrap. My hopes were to have a temperature about 40 to 45 °C. Do you guys think these temps are quite normal with this block? And what would you advice for the next block to come?

05-17-2003, 04:03 PM	#2
hara Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Malta, Mediterranean Posts: 662	How thick is the plexy. Seems too thin and could give you problems. __________________ - Every great HD crash day is the day before back-up day. - My Past System - "Better to reign in Hell than serve in Heaven." - Milton, Paradise Lost. - FMZ

05-17-2003, 04:12 PM	#3
TerraMex Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Portugal, Europe Posts: 870	> The only difference is that the plexi top has changed by copper > one, hard soldered together Someone didnt read the whole post . Just a question : Where are you reading those temp values? __________________ "we need more cowbell."

05-17-2003, 06:13 PM	#6
Pritorian Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Norway Posts: 201	Is there a gap between the top and the channels? looks like it when u had the plexi top on and that would not be good for direction all of the flow..? -P- __________________ Boo!

05-17-2003, 04:14 PM	#4
Mr.Bluestar Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Belgium Posts: 9	The plexi top isn't there anymore! I changed it to a copper top to get rid of the cracking problems. I thought it was also 5mm.

05-17-2003, 04:34 PM	#5
Mr.Bluestar Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Belgium Posts: 9	The temps are read with MBM. But in the BIOS they are the same. I don't have any other thermometer to measure the CPU-temp acurate.

05-17-2003, 06:53 PM	#7
Mr.Bluestar Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Belgium Posts: 9	No, there is no gap. With the plexi still on I could check that quite nice. But what I really like to know is that if I had a less thick baseblock the temps would be better. Or if I had to mill a bit deeper or .... That kind of things.

05-19-2003, 12:37 PM	#8
Mr.Bluestar Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Belgium Posts: 9	You're not telling me that almost nobody has got a clue? Come on guys, let that grey stuff up there do some work

05-19-2003, 12:43 PM	#9
pHaestus Big Player Making Big Money Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com Posts: 4,782	TBredBs at 2250 and 1.9V is a lot of watts from a very small spot. That's why temperatures are high. You may indeed get better results with a thinner base. I don't have the link in front of me right now, but Cathar at the overclockers australia forums tested out several maze type blocks from silverprop with a variety of bases. I am thinking he liked the thinner baseplates but it has been a long time since I read it. I will look around for it in a bit.

05-19-2003, 01:14 PM	#10
pHaestus Big Player Making Big Money Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com Posts: 4,782	Found it: http://forums.overclockers.com.au/sh...e&pagenumber=3 15mm base would seem to be too big. Try 3?

05-19-2003, 04:24 PM	#11
Mr.Bluestar Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Belgium Posts: 9	Tnx mate. I'm reading it right now. I'm quite sure now that 15mm is too thick. Hey, but maybe not to bad for a first attempt, is it?

05-19-2003, 04:26 PM	#12
pHaestus Big Player Making Big Money Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com Posts: 4,782	No the worksmanship is quite good. And there is nothing like DIY, eh? I am feeling the urge bigtime to buy a drill press and make a few waterblocks.

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