DIY vattenblock [modem=0]

Myten · 06-01-2003, 05:22 PM

waterblock made with dremel and drill.
total cost about 20$ damn those dremel cutwheels are expensive

more pics

loctite reduces the coolness a bit though. ugly brown goo

montyt · 06-01-2003, 10:46 PM

I did similar thing .
What pump/ hose size??
What dimensions on impingement slot? I made mine 3mmwide. I think that I made it a bit wide.

Dimensions on slots ect..
Here is mine

Mine is 6 fins .9-1.2mm thick and aprox 2mm slots.
10mm thick block and aprox 8mm deep slots.

Heto 3800 running ½ inch tube. Through motorcycle radiator with a 120mm panaflow @ 7volts. No load (ie machine is file server/firewall) after 1 week (30 deg c idle--full load 37deg)

pelle76 · 06-02-2003, 03:02 AM

why have you restricted the outflow that much???

winewood · 06-02-2003, 03:13 AM

At first I tought.. hey! But now considering the inflow being restricted, and the outflow being 2X's the inflow, then it should be able to handle it quite well without slowing it down to much.

But the easiest solution.. has a dremel. Easy to cut.
Or: when you have a problem and a hammer, everything starts to look like a nail.

leejsmith · 06-02-2003, 04:10 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Myten
waterblock made with dremel and drill.
total cost about 20$ damn those dremel cutwheels are expensive

more pics

loctite reduces the coolness a bit though. ugly brown goo

to seal the base use silicon sealent. it will stick very well and also if you get it clear you will see the nice copper base.

did you use the locktite to bond the 2 plastics together ?

what size are your fins /gaps and how deep are they.

have you had chance to test it yet.

Lee

Pritorian · 06-02-2003, 04:21 AM

Nice!

I´m also working on something very like that...

-P-

wywywywy · 06-02-2003, 04:48 AM

Very nice!!
How thick are the plexi top and the copper?

And do you have a template for the plexi top?

Khledar · 06-02-2003, 06:25 AM

You've got some pretty good pics, but it seems everyone wants a breif explanation of how you got to end product.

A couple Q's:

Are those 2 peices of plexi? Or is it one? What did you use to join them?

Couldn't you have used a clear RTV silicon or something instead of the locktight? Or were you worried about the copper/acrylic joint not being strong enough - 4 screws, but you needed glue? :shrug:

The biggie:
How long did it take you?

montyt · 06-02-2003, 07:41 AM

I don’t know about myten but mine runs fine.

It took me two arvos to cut base from copper stock. (Next time I will wear breathing mask as I was coughing up shit for days), 1 arvo to make tops. Two piece tops glued with ariliflex. This stuff sticks great but expensive, I purchased glue same time as Perspex.

I used rtv gasket silicon to join Perspex to base. (be careful not to get it in the channels) as I know that this is designed to withstand glycol ect.

I reamed out barbs, but not happy with size. I am thinking of creating 5/8th system running two pumps in series. But that will be down the track a bit.

Machine is a duron 1300 running at 1500 at stock voltages. MB is jetway MB with thermister under CPU so temps could be anything....

I used a dremel with 3 heavy-duty cutoff blades in the one spindle to give me 2mm wide 8mm deep (at above die trailing off closed to outside.) This leaves .9-1.2mm walls on channels measured with venire calipers. I roughly guessed design and measurements this from cathars specs.

I am happy with this for the moment but would like to improve on this...

Myten · 06-02-2003, 10:50 AM

erh many Q's

Q: why did you glue the copperplate to the plexipiece?
A:loctite is not glue and it wont be a problem replacing it with silicon.

Q: are there 2 plexipieces ?
A: Yes, there are 2 plexiplates from the beginning glued as one. the total thickness is 20mm. altough I cant enlighten you in the matter of how they were glued together. but i can tell you one thing. they're real tight and the seal hasnt broken once.
probably some special plexiglue or aceton.

Q:how long did it take ?
A: the dremeling of the channels was the part that took the longest. 1-2 hours perhaps. but i was careful and made sure that i didnt cut too deep. measuring and cooling the metal between runs. the copperplate is 6mm thick.

Q: do you have a template for the top?
A: not really it was made by "free hand". which the somewhat unstraight line of the connectors indicates.
the size is a bit exagerrated with a total of 77 x 95mm
I made sure the inelts werent too close but afterwards I think they coukd be placed a bit closer together.

Q: how big is the inlet?
a: hard to tell really :shrug: when I made it by free hand. 15x3mmat the exit but a bit smaller longer towards the inlet.
the velocity is increased quite a bit. more than I thought it would be.

Seth_jxl · 06-03-2003, 07:53 AM

hey ppls, im a bit of a newb.:confused: in this aria but i realy want to make a water block for my computer cause the 1; the prices are out of the question and 2; id like to have the experence behind me. i was wondering if any one here hase some pics of constructin or even knows a site where i can go te get a lil info on how to construct a waterblock for ma cpu. please E-mail me at...

seth223@optusnet.com.au (yes im an aussy, dont laugh)

it would be great if any of you can help me here

#Rotor · 06-09-2003, 06:26 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Seth_jxl
hey ppls, im a bit of a newb. in this aria but i realy want to make a water block for my computer cause the 1; the prices are out of the question and 2; id like to have the experence behind me. i was wondering if any one here hase some pics of constructin or even knows a site where i can go te get a lil info on how to construct a waterblock for ma cpu. please E-mail me at...

seth223@optusnet.com.au (yes im an aussy, dont laugh)

it would be great if any of you can help me here

making your own block to save money..... that is a tight one. More so if You do not have any tools yet. I would recommend you concentrate on your 2nd objective, that of getting the experience. There you are spot-on. this hole site is filled up with pictures and threads about just that, making your own block.

montyt · 06-09-2003, 08:14 AM

on the forums
www.overclockers.com.au http://www.members.optushome.com.au/montyt/H20_No2/H2O_No2.html my web site
and procooling forum as you can tell as they are great.

Research a lot. You probably won’t get the best performing block but it should do well.

Buy a dremel, butane burner, a drill, hacksaw and some copper stock and some Perspex if you wish.

and get creative. the fun is in the satisfaction of doing it yourself.

Seth_jxl · 06-10-2003, 04:32 AM

thax for that fite montyt, i have been doing alot more resarch and i now currently am on my way to finishing my RES for my sub pump. i have been pondering wether i should build a 2 layer WB or a one layer WB ( such as the one on this web site ). what are your thoughts on that WB on the web site? dose it look any good to you?

msv · 06-10-2003, 09:14 AM

Seth_ixl: Maybe I´m exaggarating things a bit, but the crossdrilled WB:s (one layer) are, well, it´s like comparing an American Civil War musket with a modern assault rifle.
The crossdrills have an outstanding record, but they are de facto aging. Go for a modern design.
regards
Mikael S.

Seth_jxl · 06-11-2003, 01:32 AM

hahahahaha very nice comparison, I didn’t think that it would be all that great; I was just hoping that I was wrong. so I’m guessing the plexy glass and routed copper block is the way to go the ay? Can I use a normal router to cut than channels in the copper block?

montyt · 06-11-2003, 05:36 AM

i used heavy duty dremel cut off blades to create slots.

what you use and how you use it is limited buy your imagination, the results will vary.

many people have created a version of lrww blocks and most have used dremels.

winewood · 06-14-2003, 07:42 AM

Quote:

i have been pondering wether i should build a 2 layer WB or a one layer WB

On a personal note, I believe that the tooling process or construction of a thermal concept should not determine the validity or greatness of a block. The more layers, the more room for failure in some cases. A single piece of metal has better transfer of heat instead of a joint inbetween. I think its more relevant to say, "what am I attempting to accomplish" and then the design comes into play. Currently the better designs I have seen are multiple layers for core cooling, and simple top-bottom blocks for tec capable strategies. However, just because a design is popular or shows good numbers doesn't eliminate a category for another application or different use. Flow, restriction.. all these will need to be a consideration.

I think a layer cold be removed from Cathars block if you found a process that could cut the top in a more efficient and cost saving way thus combining the principles of the two. If you did that, would that degrade his block in any way? No. Would it be in a different category? Yes.

06-01-2003, 05:22 PM	#1
Myten Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: sweden Posts: 19	DIY vattenblock [modem=0] waterblock made with dremel and drill. total cost about 20$ damn those dremel cutwheels are expensive more pics loctite reduces the coolness a bit though. ugly brown goo __________________ "to fully understand something and to misunderstand the same thing, dont always exclude one another - kafka"

06-02-2003, 03:13 AM	#4
winewood Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: in my chair Posts: 574	At first I tought.. hey! But now considering the inflow being restricted, and the outflow being 2X's the inflow, then it should be able to handle it quite well without slowing it down to much. But the easiest solution.. has a dremel. Easy to cut. Or: when you have a problem and a hammer, everything starts to look like a nail. __________________ -winewood-

06-02-2003, 04:21 AM	#6
Pritorian Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Norway Posts: 201	Nice! I´m also working on something very like that... -P- __________________ Boo!

06-02-2003, 04:48 AM	#7
wywywywy Cooling Neophyte Join Date: May 2003 Location: Cardiff, UK Posts: 18	Very nice!! How thick are the plexi top and the copper? And do you have a template for the plexi top? __________________ P4 Northwood 1.8GHz@2.7GHz 1.65V Albatron PX845PEV Pro \| 512MB PC3200 IBM 60GB \| IBM 40GB \| Both with HDD caddie (black colour BLUE LED) \| Cheap roundcable EBuyer.com NEC DVD (black bezel BLUE LED) \| LG 12x CD-R (black bezel BLUE LED) SB Live! Platinum \| Senfu Chasis (THE Fishtank!) \| Dell P790 17" \| Dell P1226H 19" \| 14" TV And of course, Matrox Parhelia

06-02-2003, 06:25 AM	#8
Khledar Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: North Vancouver BC Posts: 234	You've got some pretty good pics, but it seems everyone wants a breif explanation of how you got to end product. A couple Q's: Are those 2 peices of plexi? Or is it one? What did you use to join them? Couldn't you have used a clear RTV silicon or something instead of the locktight? Or were you worried about the copper/acrylic joint not being strong enough - 4 screws, but you needed glue? :shrug: The biggie: How long did it take you? __________________ "mooooo" said the cow. ERTW - UBC P4 2.4B @3.01Ghz 167FSB :: Abit IC7 :: 2x256MB HyperX PC3700 :: ASUS 9600XT :: WD Raptor 2x36GB RAID0

06-01-2003, 10:46 PM	#2
montyt Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: melbourne Posts: 14	I did similar thing . What pump/ hose size?? What dimensions on impingement slot? I made mine 3mmwide. I think that I made it a bit wide. Dimensions on slots ect.. Here is mine Mine is 6 fins .9-1.2mm thick and aprox 2mm slots. 10mm thick block and aprox 8mm deep slots. Heto 3800 running ½ inch tube. Through motorcycle radiator with a 120mm panaflow @ 7volts. No load (ie machine is file server/firewall) after 1 week (30 deg c idle--full load 37deg)

06-02-2003, 03:02 AM	#3
pelle76 Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Sweden, Skovde Posts: 101	why have you restricted the outflow that much???

06-02-2003, 07:41 AM	#9
montyt Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: melbourne Posts: 14	I don’t know about myten but mine runs fine. It took me two arvos to cut base from copper stock. (Next time I will wear breathing mask as I was coughing up shit for days), 1 arvo to make tops. Two piece tops glued with ariliflex. This stuff sticks great but expensive, I purchased glue same time as Perspex. I used rtv gasket silicon to join Perspex to base. (be careful not to get it in the channels) as I know that this is designed to withstand glycol ect. I reamed out barbs, but not happy with size. I am thinking of creating 5/8th system running two pumps in series. But that will be down the track a bit. Machine is a duron 1300 running at 1500 at stock voltages. MB is jetway MB with thermister under CPU so temps could be anything.... I used a dremel with 3 heavy-duty cutoff blades in the one spindle to give me 2mm wide 8mm deep (at above die trailing off closed to outside.) This leaves .9-1.2mm walls on channels measured with venire calipers. I roughly guessed design and measurements this from cathars specs. I am happy with this for the moment but would like to improve on this...

06-02-2003, 10:50 AM	#10
Myten Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: sweden Posts: 19	erh many Q's Q: why did you glue the copperplate to the plexipiece? A:loctite is not glue and it wont be a problem replacing it with silicon. Q: are there 2 plexipieces ? A: Yes, there are 2 plexiplates from the beginning glued as one. the total thickness is 20mm. altough I cant enlighten you in the matter of how they were glued together. but i can tell you one thing. they're real tight and the seal hasnt broken once. probably some special plexiglue or aceton. Q:how long did it take ? A: the dremeling of the channels was the part that took the longest. 1-2 hours perhaps. but i was careful and made sure that i didnt cut too deep. measuring and cooling the metal between runs. the copperplate is 6mm thick. Q: do you have a template for the top? A: not really it was made by "free hand". which the somewhat unstraight line of the connectors indicates. the size is a bit exagerrated with a total of 77 x 95mm I made sure the inelts werent too close but afterwards I think they coukd be placed a bit closer together. Q: how big is the inlet? a: hard to tell really :shrug: when I made it by free hand. 15x3mmat the exit but a bit smaller longer towards the inlet. the velocity is increased quite a bit. more than I thought it would be. __________________ "to fully understand something and to misunderstand the same thing, dont always exclude one another - kafka"

06-03-2003, 07:53 AM	#11
Seth_jxl Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Sydney, Australia Posts: 27	Help needed hey ppls, im a bit of a newb.:confused: in this aria but i realy want to make a water block for my computer cause the 1; the prices are out of the question and 2; id like to have the experence behind me. i was wondering if any one here hase some pics of constructin or even knows a site where i can go te get a lil info on how to construct a waterblock for ma cpu. please E-mail me at... seth223@optusnet.com.au (yes im an aussy, dont laugh) it would be great if any of you can help me here __________________ -SETH- Last edited by Seth_jxl; 06-03-2003 at 08:34 AM.

06-09-2003, 08:14 AM	#13
montyt Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: melbourne Posts: 14	on the forums www.overclockers.com.au http://www.members.optushome.com.au/montyt/H20_No2/H2O_No2.html my web site and procooling forum as you can tell as they are great. Research a lot. You probably won’t get the best performing block but it should do well. Buy a dremel, butane burner, a drill, hacksaw and some copper stock and some Perspex if you wish. and get creative. the fun is in the satisfaction of doing it yourself.

06-10-2003, 04:32 AM	#14
Seth_jxl Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Sydney, Australia Posts: 27	thax for that fite montyt, i have been doing alot more resarch and i now currently am on my way to finishing my RES for my sub pump. i have been pondering wether i should build a 2 layer WB or a one layer WB ( such as the one on this web site ). what are your thoughts on that WB on the web site? dose it look any good to you? __________________ -SETH-

06-10-2003, 09:14 AM	#15
msv Cooling Savant Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Sweden Posts: 336	Seth_ixl: Maybe I´m exaggarating things a bit, but the crossdrilled WB:s (one layer) are, well, it´s like comparing an American Civil War musket with a modern assault rifle. The crossdrills have an outstanding record, but they are de facto aging. Go for a modern design. regards Mikael S.

06-11-2003, 01:32 AM	#16
Seth_jxl Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Sydney, Australia Posts: 27	hahahahaha very nice comparison, I didn’t think that it would be all that great; I was just hoping that I was wrong. so I’m guessing the plexy glass and routed copper block is the way to go the ay? Can I use a normal router to cut than channels in the copper block? __________________ -SETH-

06-11-2003, 05:36 AM	#17
montyt Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: melbourne Posts: 14	i used heavy duty dremel cut off blades to create slots. what you use and how you use it is limited buy your imagination, the results will vary. many people have created a version of lrww blocks and most have used dremels.

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