good for a laugh me thinks but thats all

leejsmith · 06-19-2003, 06:18 AM

this was found by someone at oc.com

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...&category=3666

he has a brass base with copper tubes solderd onto the top.

from ebay.

These are better cooling blocks in my opinion because:

1) Much more water volume and thermal mass. 4 foot of seamless tube filled with circulating water as opposed to 2 inch blocks with a lot of seams and many places to leak from.

2) The connections can be completely outside the case. This means much less chance of leakage inside your case. I prefer putting the whole tank/pump/condenser assembly outside the case anyway, as this means that your actually taking the heat outside your case environment.

3) They are made in America by an American original... me.

4) They simply look better, and in my opinion, should simply work better.

msv · 06-19-2003, 07:46 AM

Makes one wonder what kind of WB:s he´s grown up with...
"...blocks with a lot of seams and many places to leak from."
regards
Mikael S.

Cathar · 06-19-2003, 08:24 AM

*chortle*

bigben2k · 06-19-2003, 09:05 AM

The comment about the block being better because of the "greater water volume and thermal mass" says it all: this person knows little about what makes a good waterblock. You gotta love the "They simply look better, and in my opinion, should simply work better". Where's the testing?

Looping the water round-and-round makes the block act as a secondary radiator, which is interesting: he ought to have taken advantage of that, by adding fins and a fan. Kinda like a water version of a Zalman block.

There is a reduction in the possibility of leaks, because he doesn't cut the tube at all: it remains perfectly integral. The problem is attaching a cold plate to it, in such a way that it doesn't reduce the thermal resistance, because lead/tin are relatively poor heat conductors. It's possible to flatten a piece of round tubing, just for making this block, but the bending work is pretty intricate.

Maybe this is the right block for Joe

jaydee · 06-19-2003, 11:35 AM

Just goes to show you can make something completely worthless, make is shine a bit, post some BS on why you think it is "leet", and some dumb ass will pay $50 for it. Note someone bid on it.

leejsmith · 06-19-2003, 11:42 AM

this is the thread.

http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showth...6&goto=newpost

rogerdugans at overclockers.com has contacted the guy that made it and he may send one t him for a review.

Skulemate · 06-19-2003, 11:53 AM

Well, it is sort of pretty...

bigben2k · 06-19-2003, 12:00 PM

I wouldn't call it "completely worthless" just yet. It certainly isn't going to perform anywhere near our latest designs, but it may still perform adequately, as a waterblock used to eliminate noisy fans.

jaydee · 06-19-2003, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
I wouldn't call it "completely worthless" just yet. It certainly isn't going to perform anywhere near our latest designs, but it may still perform adequately, as a waterblock used to eliminate noisy fans.

Not a good chance it is worth the $50 performance wise though. Wouldn't you rather have a TC-4 or Spiral? Would make a nice "looky what I got" block though. Thats worth a lot more to some then performance.

bigben2k · 06-19-2003, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jaydee116
Not a good chance it is worth the $50 performance wise though. Wouldn't you rather have a TC-4 or Spiral? Would make a nice "looky what I got" block though. Thats worth a lot more to some then performance.

Good point. For $50, it's easy to do better, much better...

#Rotor · 06-20-2003, 09:36 PM

in that blocks case, the $50 is spent well on looks, I'm sure making those are not the easiest of things, and for that ..... credit to it's creator, as for the claims that it's superior size in liquid volume, helps performance..... Maybe, but not in this universe

UnloadeD · 06-21-2003, 02:32 AM

QUOTE-"There is over 48 inches of 1/4" copper tube in each one." & "I use a brass base and copper tubing all soldered securely with a matching brass cap over the coppper."

Not gonna get much flow thru that sucka, and even if ya did, it wouldn't be much help with the brass/copper/solder all between the flow and the cpu. A generic hsf would be cheaper and prolly better.

peace.
unloaded

bigben2k · 06-21-2003, 09:46 AM

Just for kicks, I ran the calcs, for a straight section of 1/4" ID pipe (which is slightly different from reality):

Pressure drop @ 1 gpm: 3.3 feet aka 39 inches aka 1 meter
Pressure drop @ 2 gpm: 12 feet aka 143 inches aka 3.6 meter
Pressure drop @ 3 gpm: 25.3 feet aka 303 inches aka 7.72 meter

In actuality, the ID should be slightly bigger, but the calc doesn't account for the bends.

Calcs done using Hazen-Williams formulae (should have used Darcy, I know).

06-19-2003, 06:18 AM	#1
leejsmith Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: notts uk Posts: 408	good for a laugh me thinks but thats all this was found by someone at oc.com http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...&category=3666 he has a brass base with copper tubes solderd onto the top. from ebay. These are better cooling blocks in my opinion because: 1) Much more water volume and thermal mass. 4 foot of seamless tube filled with circulating water as opposed to 2 inch blocks with a lot of seams and many places to leak from. 2) The connections can be completely outside the case. This means much less chance of leakage inside your case. I prefer putting the whole tank/pump/condenser assembly outside the case anyway, as this means that your actually taking the heat outside your case environment. 3) They are made in America by an American original... me. 4) They simply look better, and in my opinion, should simply work better.

06-19-2003, 09:05 AM	#4
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	The comment about the block being better because of the "greater water volume and thermal mass" says it all: this person knows little about what makes a good waterblock. You gotta love the "They simply look better, and in my opinion, should simply work better". Where's the testing? Looping the water round-and-round makes the block act as a secondary radiator, which is interesting: he ought to have taken advantage of that, by adding fins and a fan. Kinda like a water version of a Zalman block. There is a reduction in the possibility of leaks, because he doesn't cut the tube at all: it remains perfectly integral. The problem is attaching a cold plate to it, in such a way that it doesn't reduce the thermal resistance, because lead/tin are relatively poor heat conductors. It's possible to flatten a piece of round tubing, just for making this block, but the bending work is pretty intricate. Maybe this is the right block for Joe __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

06-19-2003, 11:53 AM	#7
Skulemate Cooling Savant Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Toronto, Canada Posts: 381	Well, it is sort of pretty... __________________ Michael E. Robbins M.A.Sc. Candidate, University of Toronto 12.1 GHz of AMD's finest (17.7 GHz total) crunching proudly for the AMDMB.com Killer Frogs SETI BOINC: Dual Opteron 246s (Iwill DK8N) \| XP2800+ (Shuttle SN41G2) \| 3x XP2400+ (ASUS A7N266-vm) SETI BOINC: 2x P4 2.8E (ASUS P4R800-vm) \| Crunching 24/7

06-19-2003, 12:00 PM	#8
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	I wouldn't call it "completely worthless" just yet. It certainly isn't going to perform anywhere near our latest designs, but it may still perform adequately, as a waterblock used to eliminate noisy fans. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

06-20-2003, 09:36 PM	#11
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	in that blocks case, the $50 is spent well on looks, I'm sure making those are not the easiest of things, and for that ..... credit to it's creator, as for the claims that it's superior size in liquid volume, helps performance..... Maybe, but not in this universe __________________ There is no Spoon....

06-19-2003, 07:46 AM	#2
msv Cooling Savant Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Sweden Posts: 336	Makes one wonder what kind of WB:s he´s grown up with... "...blocks with a lot of seams and many places to leak from." regards Mikael S.

06-19-2003, 08:24 AM	#3
Cathar Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 2,538	chortle

06-19-2003, 11:35 AM	#5
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	Just goes to show you can make something completely worthless, make is shine a bit, post some BS on why you think it is "leet", and some dumb ass will pay $50 for it. Note someone bid on it.

06-19-2003, 11:42 AM	#6
leejsmith Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: notts uk Posts: 408	this is the thread. http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showth...6&goto=newpost rogerdugans at overclockers.com has contacted the guy that made it and he may send one t him for a review.

06-21-2003, 02:32 AM	#12
UnloadeD Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: MidWest USA Posts: 176	QUOTE-"There is over 48 inches of 1/4" copper tube in each one." & "I use a brass base and copper tubing all soldered securely with a matching brass cap over the coppper." Not gonna get much flow thru that sucka, and even if ya did, it wouldn't be much help with the brass/copper/solder all between the flow and the cpu. A generic hsf would be cheaper and prolly better. peace. unloaded

06-21-2003, 09:46 AM	#13
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Just for kicks, I ran the calcs, for a straight section of 1/4" ID pipe (which is slightly different from reality): Pressure drop @ 1 gpm: 3.3 feet aka 39 inches aka 1 meter Pressure drop @ 2 gpm: 12 feet aka 143 inches aka 3.6 meter Pressure drop @ 3 gpm: 25.3 feet aka 303 inches aka 7.72 meter In actuality, the ID should be slightly bigger, but the calc doesn't account for the bends. Calcs done using Hazen-Williams formulae (should have used Darcy, I know). __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

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