Dtek WW: alum or poly top?

Ruiner · 07-01-2003, 09:32 PM

Both are available at the same time and price.
I have read concerns of electrolysis with the aluminum top despite anodizing.
Is there a different issue with polycarb?

Which is best?

bigben2k · 07-01-2003, 09:42 PM

The answer here is in two parts:

#1: you have to understand that all metals corrode. aluminium however, will protect itself, with its own corrosion. Steel and Copper will not. So... the next thing to understand is that if two metals are electrically connected with water, the corrosion process is accelerated, because of the nature of the metals. Obviously, a poly top does not create this accelerated corrosion.

#2: you need to understand that the anodized aluminium offers some protection, but still leaves potential for the same corrosion, so you have to use a corrosion inhibitor. Further, the anodized finish can easily be scratched, especially if metal barbs are installed. Once exposed, not only will the corrosion be accelerated, it will be accelerated at the exposed point of the aluminium, which can lead to an early failure, and leak.

Ruiner · 07-01-2003, 10:52 PM

That's why I asked. I remember pics of a mixed metal innovatek block that was chewed up.
I assume that poly is a better bet, unless it has some other flaw.

Khledar · 07-02-2003, 02:08 AM

Poorly machined poly can be a weakness, but I think most manufacturers are past that now. If you drop your block a lot, metal might be a better choice than poly. I'm not sure if this is the case with the WW but somethine the poly top adds a bit of height to the whole block, that might be an issue in some applications - there's also price but I dunno what the difference is.

There are possible reasons I suppose, but if poly is a good way to go, corrosion defensive in two ways: you can see more easily if you're having a problem, and it won't create to much of a problem.

bigben2k · 07-02-2003, 07:52 AM

Bill was involved in an extensive discussion where we concluded that a plastic top should have plastic barbs, and for simplicity's sake, just glue a straight tube to it: none of this fancy threading stuff, which can only lead to cracks.

Polycarbonate micro fissures can be sealed, with methylene chloride (nasty, check MSDS), but we just don't know who uses it.

DangerDen had to re-design their acrylic res recently, because of crack problems.

The tops seem to hold well now.

Otherwise, I think we've all seen the example at OC where someone didn't have any COP on, which allowed the block to get so hot, following a leak, that it allowed the top to melt. That was a freak accident though.

I think DD has done a good job: the o-ring is still the best way to go, IMO.

Cathar · 07-02-2003, 08:46 AM

The poly topped DTek WW looks like this:

The barbs are sealed in with little O-rings under the hex section when the barbs are screwed on. The barbs are straight threaded.

Since87 · 07-02-2003, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Cathar
The poly topped DTek WW looks like this:

The barbs are sealed in with little O-rings under the hex section when the barbs are screwed on. The barbs are straight threaded.

Kudos to DTek for the barb implementation, but..........

Are those normal flat head screws holding the top on? The kind that taper from the top of the head to the shaft of the screw, and can cause radial stress on the hole?

07-02-2003, 02:08 AM	#4
Khledar Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: North Vancouver BC Posts: 234	Poorly machined poly can be a weakness, but I think most manufacturers are past that now. If you drop your block a lot, metal might be a better choice than poly. I'm not sure if this is the case with the WW but somethine the poly top adds a bit of height to the whole block, that might be an issue in some applications - there's also price but I dunno what the difference is. There are possible reasons I suppose, but if poly is a good way to go, corrosion defensive in two ways: you can see more easily if you're having a problem, and it won't create to much of a problem. __________________ "mooooo" said the cow. ERTW - UBC P4 2.4B @3.01Ghz 167FSB :: Abit IC7 :: 2x256MB HyperX PC3700 :: ASUS 9600XT :: WD Raptor 2x36GB RAID0

07-02-2003, 07:52 AM	#5
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Bill was involved in an extensive discussion where we concluded that a plastic top should have plastic barbs, and for simplicity's sake, just glue a straight tube to it: none of this fancy threading stuff, which can only lead to cracks. Polycarbonate micro fissures can be sealed, with methylene chloride (nasty, check MSDS), but we just don't know who uses it. DangerDen had to re-design their acrylic res recently, because of crack problems. The tops seem to hold well now. Otherwise, I think we've all seen the example at OC where someone didn't have any COP on, which allowed the block to get so hot, following a leak, that it allowed the top to melt. That was a freak accident though. I think DD has done a good job: the o-ring is still the best way to go, IMO. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-01-2003, 09:32 PM	#1
Ruiner Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2003 Location: New Smyrna, FL Posts: 258	Dtek WW: alum or poly top? Both are available at the same time and price. I have read concerns of electrolysis with the aluminum top despite anodizing. Is there a different issue with polycarb? Which is best?

07-01-2003, 09:42 PM	#2
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	The answer here is in two parts: #1: you have to understand that all metals corrode. aluminium however, will protect itself, with its own corrosion. Steel and Copper will not. So... the next thing to understand is that if two metals are electrically connected with water, the corrosion process is accelerated, because of the nature of the metals. Obviously, a poly top does not create this accelerated corrosion. #2: you need to understand that the anodized aluminium offers some protection, but still leaves potential for the same corrosion, so you have to use a corrosion inhibitor. Further, the anodized finish can easily be scratched, especially if metal barbs are installed. Once exposed, not only will the corrosion be accelerated, it will be accelerated at the exposed point of the aluminium, which can lead to an early failure, and leak. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-01-2003, 10:52 PM	#3
Ruiner Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2003 Location: New Smyrna, FL Posts: 258	That's why I asked. I remember pics of a mixed metal innovatek block that was chewed up. I assume that poly is a better bet, unless it has some other flaw.

07-02-2003, 08:46 AM	#6
Cathar Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 2,538	The poly topped DTek WW looks like this: The barbs are sealed in with little O-rings under the hex section when the barbs are screwed on. The barbs are straight threaded.

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