me new water cooling set-up

jovetata · 06-26-2003, 03:06 PM

ok, after reading too many water cooling articles, ive decided to make a water cooled set-up of my own.

so far i have this:
1/2" tubing and connectors
2X dtek procore shrowded heatercores with 85cfm fans on them
600 gph pump

i need a good, no, THE BEST P4 block out there
i need the best n/b block out there
i need the best gpu water block out there

i wouldnt mind buying someone's DIY block if its high performing.

i may want to do tec later but not for now.

thanx a bunch for reading this and i hope (if i get enough suggestions) to have these pieces sorted out by the end of today if not the end of the week, thanx again, jorge=me.

sn_85 · 06-26-2003, 03:17 PM

just look for Cathar and you'll find the BEST.

jovetata · 06-26-2003, 03:18 PM

yea, i know he has a really good athlon waterblock, but will that work on my p4 aswell? i need top performance out of this block. thanx for the suggestion.

sn_85 · 06-26-2003, 03:19 PM

yes, he has a P4 adapter

jovetata · 06-26-2003, 04:05 PM

cool, anyone else? or is this the TOP of the line cpu water block? ANY DIY'ers out there get really good temps with ur blocks? i've also heard of and read many articles/rants on #rotors blocks. how do these blocks compare to eachother/retail blocks? thanx again.

KriTip · 06-26-2003, 04:12 PM

I removed the IHS (the big silver cover) from my P4 2.53 socket 478. This means the die is small and should perform a lot better with a block like Cathars, than with the IHS on.

Kristian

jovetata · 06-26-2003, 04:21 PM

yea, i've been reading about people doing that, but since my last pc was palomino 1800, and its takin me all this time to get money to waste (cuz i was happy with 1800) then i dont think ill be trying that for a while, maybe ill try it after the prices for the 2.4 go down.

jovetata · 06-26-2003, 04:30 PM

ok another thing, what is the absolute best stuff to add to the water to prevent that corrosion and bacteria stuff people talk about?

KriTip · 06-26-2003, 04:36 PM

I personally run an alu rad with DD copper blocks and have only ever used car engine coolant with built in corrosion inhibitors and have had no sign of corrosion, algae or other nasties yet, my water from my tap (soft water) is mixed about 10 parts water to one part coolant.

Im sure any of the better products will suffice.

Kristian

jovetata · 06-26-2003, 05:35 PM

cool, im looking into what stuff i can put in my water now, any more suggestions on water blocks? please, thanx

#Rotor · 06-27-2003, 05:53 AM

I can fit my athlon derivatives to just about anything Intel or AMD has to through at us.... as long as your mobo has the holes, I have the answer.... even the new opterons (hammers)

performance.... lets put it this way, I designed for the purpose of running with Drift-0.8 Tec's... which means 200W+ at least... and that with chilled sluggish liquid...as my favorite kind

by the way... who's ranting???

g.l.amour · 06-27-2003, 06:52 AM

oi rotor,

i'm getting really cheap performance boosts on your designs by just adding 2 x 2mm plexi layers. 1 serves as a collector for in-outlet barb, 1 serves as a jet.

you just figure out the +/- die area; then you drill some small holes in the plexi where the midpoint is over the midpoint of your coppergridholes.

u sandwich the plexies between the copper halves.

last weekend i modded an existing pensioned block (the best one started leaking). did that and got a whopping 4°C decrease in temps.

as a rule of thumb, you take the surface area of your barb, divide it by the nr of jets. that surface area u divide by 2 (the jet can only be a jet if it restricts). that nr gives u the surface area per jet. then u calc the diameter needed to get that surface area, and u r done.

to mod the block took me about 3hrs. this is not good if u wanna do it in large nr's, but for a personal block it is perfect. needless to say that u dont wanna do this if u r using a pelt setup.

#Rotor · 06-27-2003, 03:28 PM

your jet application is indeed a winner, having the water forced in from the top, and then escaping the hole via the side slots, that forms the channels between the holes, "molecules in, molecules out, as fast as possible" SPOT-ON!

however ... I found that it is a wee bit limited by it's Wattage capability. When dealing with 250W+ of heat, spread over the entire block, things start to look a little bit different.....

jovetata · 06-28-2003, 01:27 AM

so rotor, ur saying that ur block would be best for p4? cuz if it is ill buy it. how much?

Marvin · 06-28-2003, 08:40 AM

Want a good P4 block ?
try the SLit edge . It rocks on P4 with no adapter.
[]s

jovetata · 06-28-2003, 12:15 PM

ok, according to what ive read, the slit edge has a c/w of 0.23, the white water has a c/w of 0.18. this should, under a 100 watt load, be a difference of about 5 degrees. i think its worth it to get something better than the slit edge. i mean why do u guys build ur own blocks? is it to be able to say i built my own block or is it that and the fact that you want better performance than anything u can buy on the market? cuz im trying to find the absolute BEST BLOCK.
when i decided to get into water cooling, like anything else, i wasnt going to try to go cheap on the parts, for that ill go air (have a zalman{the big one}) i want the best, cuz i want the best performance, not cuz i want to have a water cooling kit.

thanx for all of ur helps, but im still looking for the best block. for now, im waiting on how much the cascade block will be (assuming that its good for P4 chip) and waiting on a comparo of rotors block (mentioned above) and any retail block he's tested. i would love for that block to be tested by overclockers.com because i would have a direct comparison will many other blocks.\
so in short

im still not decided which block to get, anyone else want to shed some light on the subject? i would very much appreciate it

jovetata · 06-28-2003, 03:18 PM

me= jovetata @ bellsouth.net
rotor= ???

i want to talk about making me a block and pricing, if you dont mind

#Rotor · 06-28-2003, 03:45 PM

YGPM\M

on the question of whether I think my blocks are the best.... Would you believe me if I said no? neither would I

though I have to go on some very positive feedback from all over the world... when I say, it's very close to as good as it gets...

bigben2k · 06-28-2003, 08:14 PM

Couldn't have said it better.

Take a look:
http://www.overclockers.com/articles373/

Go down to Bill's test result, and be amazed at Owen Steven's DIY block taking the #3 spot. It even beats the latest Swiftech product.

In other words, unless you want to buy a block, you can make your own, and have it outperform any US made block right now. (end shameless plug

)

jaydee · 06-28-2003, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
Couldn't have said it better.

Take a look:
http://www.overclockers.com/articles373/

Go down to Bill's test result, and be amazed at Owen Steven's DIY block taking the #3 spot. It even beats the latest Swiftech product.

In other words, unless you want to buy a block, you can make your own, and have it outperform any US made block right now. (end shameless plug )

Maybe you missed the #1 block on that list? DTek is in the USA and is making that block now. Sure it is a little delayed because of an O-ring situation but they are selling.. Sorry to be a nit picker.

But I do agree, you can make a good drilled block. I would love to see one of #Rotors blocks done by BillA. Oh well....

jovetata · 06-29-2003, 12:09 AM

i noticed that the white water is a better performer, but is this under a p4 situation or a amd? cuz if it performs up to its reputation on a p4 then this thread would be over and i would have ordered my block

so what is it, #rotor or cathar. (for P4 application of course)

#Rotor · 06-29-2003, 07:10 AM

Do remember that what Bill tested, was not a block made by me. It was a block made by Owen, using my design principles. It was his very first stab[FWIK] at making a block in that fashion. He did very very well. Now give Owen 3 years to play with that design... and then test it again.

I am not better than anybody, Carthar has one advantage above any other block out there right now... the test from Bill showing him to be the top. and He makes that thrown look real good, might I add. He also elevated it to a level unreachable to those not worthy of such greatness. even if they had all the advertising in the world.

If CW. is what is going to determine your choice, I have no way of pinpointing my designs CW. you unfortunately then have no choice

jovetata · 06-29-2003, 05:34 PM

indeed, well then i have no choise, your going to have to make the block :shrug:

so name ur price, send me an email, and lets DO THIS THING

jovetata · 06-29-2003, 05:38 PM

oh btw, i was planning to water cool everything in my case, cept HDD so i was wondering, if its not too much trouble, if u could do this for me asswell

i have an abit IC7 board, and a G4 ti4400 card, i was also wondering if you could make a vid card block to fit other cards, like i may choose to get a 9700/9800 later on. thanx again

#Rotor · 06-29-2003, 10:37 PM

here is the best I can muster, with the primitive data acquisition devices to my disposal......

so take with big scoop of sugar, if you will. As per usual, temp are related to my rig as it stands and nothing else.

the rig:
A7N8X-D
Palomine 1700+
overclocked to the speed as on screen.

cooling:
heatercore shroud as per article I wrote.
pump: Beckett 530 GPH submerged.
block: Turbunator ( internal design as questioned) Pin-grid VDFC.
tubes: 3/8" ID.
fittings, unrestricted push.
number of block in system: 3 (CPU,GPU, NB).

ok now... I am using this website for the calcs and whatnot....
http://www.benchtest.com/calc.html

I hope they don't mind

the CPU, as best as I can tell, pumps this.

so What I did, was to take that as my heatload, and plug it into the CW calculator a bit down on the same page....
That got me this... along with the temps I get from them probes.

the one on the left, is under the CPU core.
the one on the right, is measuring the liquid temp as it leaves the radiator, on it's way to the reservoir, from where it gets pushed to a split between the CPU loop, and the GPU/NB loop. the 2 loops join again, just before it enters the Radiator.

the load is via Sysofts Burn-in, in an endless loop, running the CPU multi-media bench.

06-27-2003, 05:53 AM	#11
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	I can fit my athlon derivatives to just about anything Intel or AMD has to through at us.... as long as your mobo has the holes, I have the answer.... even the new opterons (hammers) performance.... lets put it this way, I designed for the purpose of running with Drift-0.8 Tec's... which means 200W+ at least... and that with chilled sluggish liquid...as my favorite kind by the way... who's ranting??? __________________ There is no Spoon....

06-27-2003, 06:52 AM	#12
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	oi rotor, i'm getting really cheap performance boosts on your designs by just adding 2 x 2mm plexi layers. 1 serves as a collector for in-outlet barb, 1 serves as a jet. you just figure out the +/- die area; then you drill some small holes in the plexi where the midpoint is over the midpoint of your coppergridholes. u sandwich the plexies between the copper halves. last weekend i modded an existing pensioned block (the best one started leaking). did that and got a whopping 4°C decrease in temps. as a rule of thumb, you take the surface area of your barb, divide it by the nr of jets. that surface area u divide by 2 (the jet can only be a jet if it restricts). that nr gives u the surface area per jet. then u calc the diameter needed to get that surface area, and u r done. to mod the block took me about 3hrs. this is not good if u wanna do it in large nr's, but for a personal block it is perfect. needless to say that u dont wanna do this if u r using a pelt setup. __________________ yo soy un tiburón

06-27-2003, 03:28 PM	#13
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	your jet application is indeed a winner, having the water forced in from the top, and then escaping the hole via the side slots, that forms the channels between the holes, "molecules in, molecules out, as fast as possible" SPOT-ON! however ... I found that it is a wee bit limited by it's Wattage capability. When dealing with 250W+ of heat, spread over the entire block, things start to look a little bit different..... __________________ There is no Spoon....

06-28-2003, 08:40 AM	#15
Marvin Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Brazil Posts: 81	Want a good P4 block ? try the SLit edge . It rocks on P4 with no adapter. []s __________________ AMD 4200+ DFI Lanparty Ultra-D 1 Gb PC4000 Geil Ultra-D XT1900 PCE 2x WD Raptor Raid 0 2x Barracuda Raid 0 DD 404A

06-28-2003, 03:45 PM	#18
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	YGPM\M on the question of whether I think my blocks are the best.... Would you believe me if I said no? neither would I though I have to go on some very positive feedback from all over the world... when I say, it's very close to as good as it gets... __________________ There is no Spoon....

06-26-2003, 03:06 PM	#1
jovetata Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: miami, fl Posts: 46	me new water cooling set-up ok, after reading too many water cooling articles, ive decided to make a water cooled set-up of my own. so far i have this: 1/2" tubing and connectors 2X dtek procore shrowded heatercores with 85cfm fans on them 600 gph pump i need a good, no, THE BEST P4 block out there i need the best n/b block out there i need the best gpu water block out there i wouldnt mind buying someone's DIY block if its high performing. i may want to do tec later but not for now. thanx a bunch for reading this and i hope (if i get enough suggestions) to have these pieces sorted out by the end of today if not the end of the week, thanx again, jorge=me.

06-26-2003, 03:17 PM	#2
sn_85 Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: H-town, TX Posts: 122	just look for Cathar and you'll find the BEST.

06-26-2003, 03:18 PM	#3
jovetata Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: miami, fl Posts: 46	yea, i know he has a really good athlon waterblock, but will that work on my p4 aswell? i need top performance out of this block. thanx for the suggestion.

06-26-2003, 03:19 PM	#4
sn_85 Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: H-town, TX Posts: 122	yes, he has a P4 adapter

06-26-2003, 04:05 PM	#5
jovetata Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: miami, fl Posts: 46	cool, anyone else? or is this the TOP of the line cpu water block? ANY DIY'ers out there get really good temps with ur blocks? i've also heard of and read many articles/rants on #rotors blocks. how do these blocks compare to eachother/retail blocks? thanx again.

06-26-2003, 04:12 PM	#6
KriTip Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Nuneaton, WARKS, UK Posts: 10	I removed the IHS (the big silver cover) from my P4 2.53 socket 478. This means the die is small and should perform a lot better with a block like Cathars, than with the IHS on. Kristian

06-26-2003, 04:21 PM	#7
jovetata Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: miami, fl Posts: 46	yea, i've been reading about people doing that, but since my last pc was palomino 1800, and its takin me all this time to get money to waste (cuz i was happy with 1800) then i dont think ill be trying that for a while, maybe ill try it after the prices for the 2.4 go down.

06-26-2003, 04:30 PM	#8
jovetata Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: miami, fl Posts: 46	ok another thing, what is the absolute best stuff to add to the water to prevent that corrosion and bacteria stuff people talk about?

06-26-2003, 04:36 PM	#9
KriTip Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Nuneaton, WARKS, UK Posts: 10	I personally run an alu rad with DD copper blocks and have only ever used car engine coolant with built in corrosion inhibitors and have had no sign of corrosion, algae or other nasties yet, my water from my tap (soft water) is mixed about 10 parts water to one part coolant. Im sure any of the better products will suffice. Kristian

06-26-2003, 05:35 PM	#10
jovetata Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: miami, fl Posts: 46	cool, im looking into what stuff i can put in my water now, any more suggestions on water blocks? please, thanx

06-28-2003, 01:27 AM	#14
jovetata Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: miami, fl Posts: 46	so rotor, ur saying that ur block would be best for p4? cuz if it is ill buy it. how much?

06-28-2003, 12:15 PM	#16
jovetata Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: miami, fl Posts: 46	ok, according to what ive read, the slit edge has a c/w of 0.23, the white water has a c/w of 0.18. this should, under a 100 watt load, be a difference of about 5 degrees. i think its worth it to get something better than the slit edge. i mean why do u guys build ur own blocks? is it to be able to say i built my own block or is it that and the fact that you want better performance than anything u can buy on the market? cuz im trying to find the absolute BEST BLOCK. when i decided to get into water cooling, like anything else, i wasnt going to try to go cheap on the parts, for that ill go air (have a zalman{the big one}) i want the best, cuz i want the best performance, not cuz i want to have a water cooling kit. thanx for all of ur helps, but im still looking for the best block. for now, im waiting on how much the cascade block will be (assuming that its good for P4 chip) and waiting on a comparo of rotors block (mentioned above) and any retail block he's tested. i would love for that block to be tested by overclockers.com because i would have a direct comparison will many other blocks.\ so in short im still not decided which block to get, anyone else want to shed some light on the subject? i would very much appreciate it

06-28-2003, 03:18 PM	#17
jovetata Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: miami, fl Posts: 46	me= jovetata @ bellsouth.net rotor= ??? i want to talk about making me a block and pricing, if you dont mind

06-28-2003, 08:14 PM	#19
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Couldn't have said it better. Take a look: http://www.overclockers.com/articles373/ Go down to Bill's test result, and be amazed at Owen Steven's DIY block taking the #3 spot. It even beats the latest Swiftech product. In other words, unless you want to buy a block, you can make your own, and have it outperform any US made block right now. (end shameless plug ) __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

06-29-2003, 12:09 AM	#21
jovetata Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: miami, fl Posts: 46	i noticed that the white water is a better performer, but is this under a p4 situation or a amd? cuz if it performs up to its reputation on a p4 then this thread would be over and i would have ordered my block so what is it, #rotor or cathar. (for P4 application of course)

06-29-2003, 07:10 AM	#22
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	Do remember that what Bill tested, was not a block made by me. It was a block made by Owen, using my design principles. It was his very first stab[FWIK] at making a block in that fashion. He did very very well. Now give Owen 3 years to play with that design... and then test it again. I am not better than anybody, Carthar has one advantage above any other block out there right now... the test from Bill showing him to be the top. and He makes that thrown look real good, might I add. He also elevated it to a level unreachable to those not worthy of such greatness. even if they had all the advertising in the world. If CW. is what is going to determine your choice, I have no way of pinpointing my designs CW. you unfortunately then have no choice __________________ There is no Spoon....

06-29-2003, 05:34 PM	#23
jovetata Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: miami, fl Posts: 46	indeed, well then i have no choise, your going to have to make the block :shrug: so name ur price, send me an email, and lets DO THIS THING

06-29-2003, 05:38 PM	#24
jovetata Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: miami, fl Posts: 46	oh btw, i was planning to water cool everything in my case, cept HDD so i was wondering, if its not too much trouble, if u could do this for me asswell i have an abit IC7 board, and a G4 ti4400 card, i was also wondering if you could make a vid card block to fit other cards, like i may choose to get a 9700/9800 later on. thanx again

06-29-2003, 10:37 PM	#25
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	ok CW....... here is the best I can muster, with the primitive data acquisition devices to my disposal...... so take with big scoop of sugar, if you will. As per usual, temp are related to my rig as it stands and nothing else. the rig: A7N8X-D Palomine 1700+ overclocked to the speed as on screen. cooling: heatercore shroud as per article I wrote. pump: Beckett 530 GPH submerged. block: Turbunator ( internal design as questioned) Pin-grid VDFC. tubes: 3/8" ID. fittings, unrestricted push. number of block in system: 3 (CPU,GPU, NB). ok now... I am using this website for the calcs and whatnot.... http://www.benchtest.com/calc.html I hope they don't mind the CPU, as best as I can tell, pumps this. so What I did, was to take that as my heatload, and plug it into the CW calculator a bit down on the same page.... That got me this... along with the temps I get from them probes. the one on the left, is under the CPU core. the one on the right, is measuring the liquid temp as it leaves the radiator, on it's way to the reservoir, from where it gets pushed to a split between the CPU loop, and the GPU/NB loop. the 2 loops join again, just before it enters the Radiator. the load is via Sysofts Burn-in, in an endless loop, running the CPU multi-media bench. __________________ There is no Spoon....

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