Why??

[Zhentar]

I'm trying to set up my first watercooling system here. The first try, almost every single joint leaked. After tightening the clamps alot, I got almost all the leaks to stop. The pump inlet was hard though; it has 3/8" threads and I couldn't get a 3/8" thread with 1/2" barb, only a 3/8" barb. 3/8" barbs and 1/2" hose do not work together well at all. The only spot left that leaked was the reservoir, (I made it from a 2" PVC Y connector and 2 plastic "test caps" because they didn't have real endcaps.... Real hardware stores suck. Almost as much as real computer stores..... but anyways, the reservoir leaked where the barbs went into the end caps, and at the edges of the end caps... after a several tries to fix it and only moderate success, I went overboard. And I mean overboard. I put on so much 'clear' RTV silicone that I could barely see the base of the barb, I had silicone past the end of the hose on the barb even.

And one of the barbs still leaked.... WHY!!!!

This is fun though, even if my reservoir is really an evil demon in disguise.

Later I'll put up pics of the pump/reservoir, but past that its nothing special, just a maze 3 and a dangerden chipset block, with a chevy caprice heatercore....

One other thing I've learned doing this: Its really hard to cut tubing to lenght when you haven't gotten a case yet (my computers been sitting caseless on the desk here for probably 2 months now) and you don't even know if you'll use a midtower or a full tower..... or maybe a cube.

[bigben2k]

Two things:

#1: if your barb is smaller than your hose ID, no clamp will prevent a leak.

#2: the grey fittings you get from Home Depot, are made of polypropylene. Silicone glue (Goop) won't stick to it. Try to stick to nylon (white/yellow) fittings, where you need to use an adhesive. For that Y, if you can't find one, you might have to use a threaded PVC tee, and screw in your barbs.

[Zhentar]

Actually, I'm using brass fittings...

for #1, you seem to be wrong, though it will probably take some time to know for sure.

I'm using screw clamps, and I have it tightened down, probably even smaller than 1/2" diameter....

[bigben2k]

I'm not wrong, I just don't know your setup.

So what size brass barbs are you using, and what's your tube ID? Does the tube slip on very easily, or do you have to work it a bit? You stated that you're using a 3/8 barb with 1/2" tubing, at your pump's connection: that's the problem.

Really, you shouldn't have any leaks, without hose clamps. We only add them for added protection, because as soon as you tug on that hose, the leak would come up.

Personally, I use plastic clamps (available at NAPA).


So you're going to have to find the right barb for your pump, even if it means getting a little creative and using multiple fittings, like:
3/8" threaded extension (M-M) -> 3/8 to 1/2 reducer (F-F) -> 1/2 barb.

Good luck.

[Zhentar]

I've got 1/2" clearflex tubing; The tubing slips on very easily and without clamps leaks profusely.

The pump's 3/8 barb doesn't leak anymore, and I can order the proper barb at Mcmaster; I'll probably order it tomorrow along with 25" of tubing; maybe I'll try a manometer.

I seem to have eliminated all leaks now, though I had to put the pump outlet back to the original position; I don't know why but the o-ring was leaking considerably, and I stripped one of the screw holes trying to tighten it. It works fine in the original position though.

Another thing I have to ask about.. theres this funny brown stuff inside my dangerden blocks now. I seem to remember a post about it before but I can't find it. For now I'm just leak testing with tap water, but I don't see why that would leave brown deposits in the waterblock.

[bigben2k]

Sounds good. McMaster has it all. I think you'll find that the proper barb is going to be very helpful, and make things simpler.

What pump did you get anyways? This is where the Goop works well.

Is this brown deposit solid, or is it more like a stain?

[CoolROD]

Really, you shouldn't have any leaks, without hose clamps.

This is important -I regularly use 1/4 - 1.1/4" push-lock fittings and single braid nitrile hose for air @ 150 PSI for industrial machinery.

The only time I use any type of ferrule or clamp is when I make air hoses that get drug around and generally abused.
A hose that is too big for a barb is just hasty work and is asking for trouble.
I think too much of my PC -and my money- to take that big of a chance with leaks.

But...As long as you are having fun -who cares what is hasty or what other people think!

[Zhentar]

I got the little giant pump I mentioned in another thread; a PCL-020. I can't find that exact one on the little giant website but it seems pretty similar to the 2Es. Its pretty hot; at 47 watts the water stabilized at about 4C over room temp (no fans on radiator yet), and one side reaching 65C, according to the compu-nurse I got from directron. (who was nice enough to send me the panaflo L1As that I really wanted but had to order M1As because the L1As were "sold out". How they read my mind like that, I don't know)

As for the brown stuff, it seems to be a very thin deposit, but I'm not really sure.

As for the barb size... I'd like to have all 5/8" barbs to reduce flow restriction, but Dangerden didn't have those as an option. Would have preferred a whitewater, but they're too expensive