What the heck is green crap in my waterblock... (distilled+copper+brass)

starbuck3733t · 08-13-2003, 08:18 PM

Argh.. what is this crap!

I also swear that the gunk wasn't there before I put the temp sensor from an indoor-outdoor thermometer in the res.

Coolant: Distilled water. No additives (yet, this was a partial test run)

Components in system:
dangerden maze 4 block
clearflex 1/2" ID tubing
eheim 1250 pump
ford econoline van heatercore (copper/brass construction)
home made PVC res w\ brass fittings
GE Silicon II glue for sealing stuff

Could-Bes:
1 oz of city water in my res (I couldn't get it to drain all the way out from testing)

thermometer lead, but the thermistor is sealed in plastic/glue/silicon of some sort and i don't see any exposed wiring.

One more thing... what additive should I use so that the water is blue or clear under normal light that provides corosion inhibitors so that this doesn't happen again!

Off I go to read the rest of the site. Please don't kick my proverbial ass, im a WC n00b.

starbuck3733t · 08-13-2003, 10:13 PM

small update:

currently flushing the system with 91% iso alcohol (all walmart had) and it seems to be removing the cloudy garbage that was lining the tubes. I think its the same stuff as in the block, but in a very thin layer.

Also, i noticed that some of the green crud was building up en masse on my brass barbs in my custom reservior.

dima y · 08-13-2003, 10:21 PM

definatly sounds like corosion(can't spell) to me. Are you sure you dont have any other metal present in the loop?

starbuck3733t · 08-13-2003, 10:24 PM

as far as i know the only metals in the loop are copper and brass.

My heatercore is for a 1985 ford econoline van. I also realized that I never even flushed it once after i got it new, so it is possible there was some variety of contaminate in it which caused this massive build up in a mere 2 days.

Wang · 08-13-2003, 11:59 PM

Ok, you guys are starting to freak me out!!
I haven't added any corrosion inhibitor/algicide yet!
I'm running 100% distilled water with green highliter.

I opted for the Alu top WW for durability..... but I
can't see inside it for corrosion like a poly top...... doh!

It does look like copper corrosion at first glance.

Seeing that you didn't flush the HC...... that's bad.
I flushed mine with Sody Water.... lottsa crap came out.

I ran a vineagar mix for about a week while waiting for the
Dtek WW and MCW50 blocks, for a final cleaning.

I'm getting very good temps methinks... even tho I worry
I installed the WW backwards! heh.

1700 dlt3c @2.4ghz 12.5x192 1.72v
29c amb
36c cpu (idle-surf+d/l)
38c cpu (full load)

With the MCW50 running serially, I'm pleased.

My tubes are still clear, so I think i'm safe.....

Good-luck!

Quote:

Originally posted by starbuck3733t
as far as i know the only metals in the loop are copper and brass.

My heatercore is for a 1985 ford econoline van. I also realized that I never even flushed it once after i got it new, so it is possible there was some variety of contaminate in it which caused this massive build up in a mere 2 days.

starbuck3733t · 08-14-2003, 05:02 PM

I took the block apart and cleaned it, with ketchup, rinsed with alcohol, rinsed a LOT with distilled water and re assembled. I'd try again but I'm out of money for things like waterwetter

That and my reservior died, the alcohol caused the end caps to crack, which is rather odd.

airspirit · 08-14-2003, 05:45 PM

Brass is not pure copper and can cause corrosion to pure copper. That may be the problem.

Since87 · 08-14-2003, 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by starbuck3733t

That and my reservior died, the alcohol caused the end caps to crack, which is rather odd.

Certain solvents can greatly accelerate stress cracking in certain plastics.

Link

I know of a certain brand of plastic binding post knobs that will instantly fall apart if a certain type of flux stripper gets sprayed on them.

Do you know what type of plastic the cracked parts were made of? This might be important to know for anyone considering using alcohol in their system.

starbuck3733t · 08-15-2003, 08:18 AM

The end caps on my reservior were LuciteTuff from lowes, 1/8" stuff. I had 4 screws in each going into the clear PVC 1/4" wall tube used for the main body of the reservior. Screws did not contact the water at anytime, but they were stainless or galvanized at least. The caps were sealed on with GE Silicon II adhesive.

I think im going to get one of those dangerden acrylic reserviors w\ polypropelene fittings to reduce the amount of brass in my system... Either that or go and replace the brass barbs with nylon/poly prop fittings and build new caps for the PVC tube. The barbs I got were MIP (for compression stuff) anyway, so no love lost replacing them with proper barbs.

dima y · 08-15-2003, 04:11 PM

i am going to put my money on that if you touch one of the metal screws on the res and the touch the water with the multimeter you WILL get a reading. I bet that somehow the screw did touch the water because of the collor of the corrotion.

on the other hand nice res

starbuck3733t · 08-15-2003, 04:34 PM

Thanks for the compliments.

I have a hard time beliving it was one of the screws, considering this took all of 4 days to build up. That's a LOT of corrosion in 4 days.

I don't think this res will be coming back on this project.

I'm probably going to get one of the small dangerden clear ones and mount it in some in the top of the case, as it makes filling/draining much easier.

The filling is a real PITA in that setup, and those top 2 5.25" bays in the front are useless with everything installed. If i put the res up there, it'll use some of the unused space. I also plan on putting a VFD in that spot eventually, but its shallow enough that it won't interfere with the res.

08-13-2003, 08:18 PM	#1
starbuck3733t Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: State College, PA Posts: 338	What the heck is green crap in my waterblock... (distilled+copper+brass) Argh.. what is this crap! I also swear that the gunk wasn't there before I put the temp sensor from an indoor-outdoor thermometer in the res. Coolant: Distilled water. No additives (yet, this was a partial test run) Components in system: dangerden maze 4 block clearflex 1/2" ID tubing eheim 1250 pump ford econoline van heatercore (copper/brass construction) home made PVC res w\ brass fittings GE Silicon II glue for sealing stuff Could-Bes: 1 oz of city water in my res (I couldn't get it to drain all the way out from testing) thermometer lead, but the thermistor is sealed in plastic/glue/silicon of some sort and i don't see any exposed wiring. One more thing... what additive should I use so that the water is blue or clear under normal light that provides corosion inhibitors so that this doesn't happen again! Off I go to read the rest of the site. Please don't kick my proverbial ass, im a WC n00b. __________________ Goliath: 3.4E@3.91/Abit IC7, Maze4 (temporarily) + custom splitter to crazy 4-way watercooling parallel loop: X800XT @ 520/1280 + AC Twinplex, AC Twinplex Northbridge, Silenstar Dual HDD Cooler, Eheim1250, '85 econoline van HC + 2x120, 1x120 exhaust - polished aluminum frame panaflo L1As, 2x18GB 10K RPM U160 SCSI, 4GB PC4000. I wanna be BladeRunner when I grow up! Project Goliath - nearing completion.

08-13-2003, 10:13 PM	#2
starbuck3733t Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: State College, PA Posts: 338	small update: currently flushing the system with 91% iso alcohol (all walmart had) and it seems to be removing the cloudy garbage that was lining the tubes. I think its the same stuff as in the block, but in a very thin layer. Also, i noticed that some of the green crud was building up en masse on my brass barbs in my custom reservior. __________________ Goliath: 3.4E@3.91/Abit IC7, Maze4 (temporarily) + custom splitter to crazy 4-way watercooling parallel loop: X800XT @ 520/1280 + AC Twinplex, AC Twinplex Northbridge, Silenstar Dual HDD Cooler, Eheim1250, '85 econoline van HC + 2x120, 1x120 exhaust - polished aluminum frame panaflo L1As, 2x18GB 10K RPM U160 SCSI, 4GB PC4000. I wanna be BladeRunner when I grow up! Project Goliath - nearing completion.

08-13-2003, 10:24 PM	#4
starbuck3733t Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: State College, PA Posts: 338	as far as i know the only metals in the loop are copper and brass. My heatercore is for a 1985 ford econoline van. I also realized that I never even flushed it once after i got it new, so it is possible there was some variety of contaminate in it which caused this massive build up in a mere 2 days. __________________ Goliath: 3.4E@3.91/Abit IC7, Maze4 (temporarily) + custom splitter to crazy 4-way watercooling parallel loop: X800XT @ 520/1280 + AC Twinplex, AC Twinplex Northbridge, Silenstar Dual HDD Cooler, Eheim1250, '85 econoline van HC + 2x120, 1x120 exhaust - polished aluminum frame panaflo L1As, 2x18GB 10K RPM U160 SCSI, 4GB PC4000. I wanna be BladeRunner when I grow up! Project Goliath - nearing completion.

08-14-2003, 05:02 PM	#6
starbuck3733t Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: State College, PA Posts: 338	I took the block apart and cleaned it, with ketchup, rinsed with alcohol, rinsed a LOT with distilled water and re assembled. I'd try again but I'm out of money for things like waterwetter That and my reservior died, the alcohol caused the end caps to crack, which is rather odd. __________________ Goliath: 3.4E@3.91/Abit IC7, Maze4 (temporarily) + custom splitter to crazy 4-way watercooling parallel loop: X800XT @ 520/1280 + AC Twinplex, AC Twinplex Northbridge, Silenstar Dual HDD Cooler, Eheim1250, '85 econoline van HC + 2x120, 1x120 exhaust - polished aluminum frame panaflo L1As, 2x18GB 10K RPM U160 SCSI, 4GB PC4000. I wanna be BladeRunner when I grow up! Project Goliath - nearing completion.

08-14-2003, 05:45 PM	#7
airspirit Been /.'d... have you? Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Moscow, ID Posts: 1,986	Brass is not pure copper and can cause corrosion to pure copper. That may be the problem. __________________ #!/bin/sh {who;} {last;} {pause;} {grep;} {touch;} {unzip;} mount /dev/girl -t {wet;} {fsck;} {fsck;} {fsck;} {fsck;} echo yes yes yes {yes;} umount {/dev/girl;zip;} rm -rf {wet.spot;} {sleep;} finger: permission denied

08-13-2003, 10:21 PM	#3
dima y Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: palo alto, CA Posts: 164	definatly sounds like corosion(can't spell) to me. Are you sure you dont have any other metal present in the loop?

08-15-2003, 08:18 AM	#9
starbuck3733t Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: State College, PA Posts: 338	The end caps on my reservior were LuciteTuff from lowes, 1/8" stuff. I had 4 screws in each going into the clear PVC 1/4" wall tube used for the main body of the reservior. Screws did not contact the water at anytime, but they were stainless or galvanized at least. The caps were sealed on with GE Silicon II adhesive. I think im going to get one of those dangerden acrylic reserviors w\ polypropelene fittings to reduce the amount of brass in my system... Either that or go and replace the brass barbs with nylon/poly prop fittings and build new caps for the PVC tube. The barbs I got were MIP (for compression stuff) anyway, so no love lost replacing them with proper barbs. __________________ Goliath: 3.4E@3.91/Abit IC7, Maze4 (temporarily) + custom splitter to crazy 4-way watercooling parallel loop: X800XT @ 520/1280 + AC Twinplex, AC Twinplex Northbridge, Silenstar Dual HDD Cooler, Eheim1250, '85 econoline van HC + 2x120, 1x120 exhaust - polished aluminum frame panaflo L1As, 2x18GB 10K RPM U160 SCSI, 4GB PC4000. I wanna be BladeRunner when I grow up! Project Goliath - nearing completion.

08-15-2003, 04:11 PM	#10
dima y Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: palo alto, CA Posts: 164	i am going to put my money on that if you touch one of the metal screws on the res and the touch the water with the multimeter you WILL get a reading. I bet that somehow the screw did touch the water because of the collor of the corrotion. on the other hand nice res

08-15-2003, 04:34 PM	#11
starbuck3733t Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: State College, PA Posts: 338	Thanks for the compliments. I have a hard time beliving it was one of the screws, considering this took all of 4 days to build up. That's a LOT of corrosion in 4 days. I don't think this res will be coming back on this project. I'm probably going to get one of the small dangerden clear ones and mount it in some in the top of the case, as it makes filling/draining much easier. The filling is a real PITA in that setup, and those top 2 5.25" bays in the front are useless with everything installed. If i put the res up there, it'll use some of the unused space. I also plan on putting a VFD in that spot eventually, but its shallow enough that it won't interfere with the res. __________________ Goliath: 3.4E@3.91/Abit IC7, Maze4 (temporarily) + custom splitter to crazy 4-way watercooling parallel loop: X800XT @ 520/1280 + AC Twinplex, AC Twinplex Northbridge, Silenstar Dual HDD Cooler, Eheim1250, '85 econoline van HC + 2x120, 1x120 exhaust - polished aluminum frame panaflo L1As, 2x18GB 10K RPM U160 SCSI, 4GB PC4000. I wanna be BladeRunner when I grow up! Project Goliath - nearing completion.

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