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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
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#1 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND
Posts: 504
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The reason I am bringing this up is because Im extremely confused. Hara always posts this for O-ring grooves:
Take a look at these links. and they arent the only ones... http://www.spira-emi.com/mainpages/g...n.htm#standard http://www.quadion.com/factbook/4-10.htm They basicly tell me to cut the groove for a 1/8(.139") O-ring with a 3/16"(.1875) EM, .1- .104" deep. Although Hara's diagram tells me much different .09313-.0973 for depth 1.6402-1.668 for width Then I remember measuring .159" for width on the maze3 O-ring. If I dont get any answers that clear things up, I just might have to take that wb out of my system and measure it out. Thanx Jon |
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#2 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Pullman, WA
Posts: 91
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Part of the problem is that 1/8" O-rings are not 0.125", but instead are actually (usually) 0.139". Because of this you must use different O-ring groove dimensions.
The other factor is that there are different O-ring dimensions depending on water vs air vs vacuum. I just built a waterblock with an O-ring groove and originally used the 0.125" dimensions and the groove was too small. I then remachined the groove width and depth to the dimensions given here on this page and it worked great: http://www.mhatt.aps.anl.gov/dohn/re...ace_gland.html You use the groove width for liquids on the chart. Remember that you have to have room for the O-ring to squeeze, and remember to make the depth compensate for any sanding or lapping that you might do to the top side (where the groove is) after machining. |
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#3 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND
Posts: 504
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thanx a ton, thats similar to what I am thinking, same as those 2 links. and yes, I did do .139"
that graph basicly tells me to cut with a 3/16" EM and .1" deep. -EDIT- By looking at that table, It appears the equasion Hara is spreading around is for vacume and gasses. Jon |
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#4 |
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
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Excellent info N8, and good catch Jon!
Bill posted some practical info, based on his many years of experience, in my waterblock thread (see sig). |
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#5 | |
Pro/Guru - Uber Mod
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Indiana
Posts: 834
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#6 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND
Posts: 504
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Sean, Delrin is too flexable... It leaks....
http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showth...22#post2067722 Jon |
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#7 |
Pro/Guru - Uber Mod
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Indiana
Posts: 834
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Sorry to hear that. The block looks good, and avoiding the whole aluminum/copper issue is a big plus.
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#8 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND
Posts: 504
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with silicone or GOOP, it works great though! I GOOPed it, Itll be awesome. The gpu block will be great with an O-ring, theres no way that stuff will flex
![]() I couldnt get the 1ft bar to flex ![]() Jon |
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#9 | ||
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
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