started making a waterblock today

maxim · 08-13-2003, 10:16 PM

i call it, Biohazard, because the drill holes make a triangular pattern they way they are. here are some pics of the parts i've made so far. first off, here is a 2x2x.125 inch copper with 1mm deep holes made with a power hand drill. then there is the 1/4" piece of plexi for the main chamber. then plexi plate of 1/8" that makes the water jets from the inlet. and then just the top cover:

side view of the layers:

here is a view through the inlet the way it will sit:

everything is gonna be cut into squares/rectangles tomorrow, and when i get some plastic barbs from home depot, glued together. little dots on the outside of plexi are for the monuting bolts, and the thick dots are for screws that hold the block together, but im thinking more and more about just glueing it all. the copper is off center, but the inlet is directly over the core, and the copper still hits all 4 of the round squishy things on the cpu. please post any comments/suggestions. i am new to this, as is evident by my dremel skills. i've made one block so far by taking a 2x2 piece of copper and JB welding it to a PVC endcap cup. works pretty good, but not the more efficent thing ever, clearly. here is a pic:

MMZ_TimeLord · 08-14-2003, 10:08 AM

Looks like a good start and an interesting twist on the jet block base.

Two things I would note, you are going to have a serious restriction at the input triangle jet arrangement unless you taper them somewhat and the dimples you made in the copper base are angled and will probably create some dead spots.

I would use a X-acto knife or similar narrow blade (twirled in the holes) to taper them more so that the water is not impacting such a large flat area to get through.

Without tubes coming in from the jet side... I would not know the proper shape to maximize your turbulance. Anyone help out here? :shrug:

hydrogen18 · 08-14-2003, 03:18 PM

good looking, but will it perform....looks like it is pretty easy to make though.

maxim · 08-15-2003, 11:38 AM

here are some more pics after the thing was put together. as you can see, it's not the prettiest, but i just wanted to see if the principle functions better than my old one. if this one performs better, then i'll try to make a 3rd one with the 3x3" copper that i have and make it look all shiny and stuff.

i also thought about those holes i made in the inlet: if they cause any trouble, i can always take a dremel to them and cut them out through the barb w/o even taking anything apart. that would be impossible at this point anyway, cuz i JB welded everything to prevent leaks, just in case

cristoff · 08-15-2003, 12:44 PM

how's it work?

AXDA2600DKV3D · 08-15-2003, 01:46 PM

Quote:

i can always take a dremel to them and cut them out through the barb w/o even taking anything apart

then you would have that spare peice in there screwing your performance

maxim · 08-15-2003, 03:36 PM

i could cut the thing is little pieces that would easily fall out of the inlets. but it doesnt matter, the thing was a total failure. JB didnt harden overnight and so the whole thing leaked. i tried to take it apart and wipe/scrape the soft JB off, but there was some what did harden and wouldnt come off. so i threw it out. i kept the copper plate and i'll try to sand it down to get rid of the leftover JB. i'll glue the layers next time, it was too late to go to home depot last night and get a can, so i just used JB cuz i had it.

Phant0m51 · 08-15-2003, 04:46 PM

Maxim,

I would really love to see the performance of that block. It might not be Cascade temperatures, but who cares? You made it and I think you did a damn good job too.

Good luck!

hydrogen18 · 08-15-2003, 04:56 PM

JB needs air to harden as far as I know, so hence the reason there was no hardening...try silicone.

maxim · 08-15-2003, 05:49 PM

thanks for being supportive, everyone. i will make another one just like this, but sand everything and put it together in stages to provide air for the whatever adhesive i'll use.

hydrogen18, sillicone adhesive? how long does it take to harden?

Phant0m51 · 08-15-2003, 06:00 PM

Silicone Cures, not hardens, but I think it usually takes 24 hours for it to cure...

If you're going to make another, then don't worry about sealing it like that. If you ever had to take it apart, you'd be screwed. What you should do is dremel out a groove a little ways in from the edge, that way you can put a Silicone o-ring and seal it that way.

Phant0m51 · 08-15-2003, 06:04 PM

Something like this:

The red circle is the Groove you should dremel in, then you wouldn't have to glue it together.

MMZ_TimeLord · 08-16-2003, 01:45 AM

Exactly like that... dremeling a sealing groove is kind of a pain, but once it's there... your're done.

Also, if you are screwing the layers together anyway, you could use simple gasket paper from the automotive store and cut your own gasket. This would be a temporary solution while you were testing out the block. That way if you needed to make changes, you just disassemble the block.

jaydee · 08-16-2003, 02:52 PM

No need to cut the groove with silicone. Keep on trying man!

montyt · 08-18-2003, 05:25 AM

you could try rtv silicon as it dosnt need air ...and rtv stands for room temprature valcanising.
it worked for mine

blue is the silicon

hydrogen18 · 08-18-2003, 05:54 AM

I say try the RTV silicone and if that doesnt work try liquid teflon sealent.

08-13-2003, 10:16 PM	#1
maxim Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: VA Tech Posts: 111	started making a waterblock today i call it, Biohazard, because the drill holes make a triangular pattern they way they are. here are some pics of the parts i've made so far. first off, here is a 2x2x.125 inch copper with 1mm deep holes made with a power hand drill. then there is the 1/4" piece of plexi for the main chamber. then plexi plate of 1/8" that makes the water jets from the inlet. and then just the top cover: side view of the layers: here is a view through the inlet the way it will sit: everything is gonna be cut into squares/rectangles tomorrow, and when i get some plastic barbs from home depot, glued together. little dots on the outside of plexi are for the monuting bolts, and the thick dots are for screws that hold the block together, but im thinking more and more about just glueing it all. the copper is off center, but the inlet is directly over the core, and the copper still hits all 4 of the round squishy things on the cpu. please post any comments/suggestions. i am new to this, as is evident by my dremel skills. i've made one block so far by taking a 2x2 piece of copper and JB welding it to a PVC endcap cup. works pretty good, but not the more efficent thing ever, clearly. here is a pic:

08-14-2003, 10:08 AM	#2
MMZ_TimeLord Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: San Mateo, CA, USA, Earth Posts: 433	Looks like a good start and an interesting twist on the jet block base. Two things I would note, you are going to have a serious restriction at the input triangle jet arrangement unless you taper them somewhat and the dimples you made in the copper base are angled and will probably create some dead spots. I would use a X-acto knife or similar narrow blade (twirled in the holes) to taper them more so that the water is not impacting such a large flat area to get through. Without tubes coming in from the jet side... I would not know the proper shape to maximize your turbulance. Anyone help out here? :shrug: __________________ MMZ>TimeLord "Oooooooooh... that's gonna leave a mark!"

08-15-2003, 12:44 PM	#5
cristoff Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Mass Posts: 185	how's it work? __________________ fr33t3chi3

08-16-2003, 01:45 AM	#13
MMZ_TimeLord Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: San Mateo, CA, USA, Earth Posts: 433	Exactly like that... dremeling a sealing groove is kind of a pain, but once it's there... your're done. Also, if you are screwing the layers together anyway, you could use simple gasket paper from the automotive store and cut your own gasket. This would be a temporary solution while you were testing out the block. That way if you needed to make changes, you just disassemble the block. __________________ MMZ>TimeLord "Oooooooooh... that's gonna leave a mark!"

08-14-2003, 03:18 PM	#3
hydrogen18 Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: USA Posts: 248	good looking, but will it perform....looks like it is pretty easy to make though.

08-15-2003, 11:38 AM	#4
maxim Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: VA Tech Posts: 111	here are some more pics after the thing was put together. as you can see, it's not the prettiest, but i just wanted to see if the principle functions better than my old one. if this one performs better, then i'll try to make a 3rd one with the 3x3" copper that i have and make it look all shiny and stuff. i also thought about those holes i made in the inlet: if they cause any trouble, i can always take a dremel to them and cut them out through the barb w/o even taking anything apart. that would be impossible at this point anyway, cuz i JB welded everything to prevent leaks, just in case

08-15-2003, 03:36 PM	#7
maxim Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: VA Tech Posts: 111	i could cut the thing is little pieces that would easily fall out of the inlets. but it doesnt matter, the thing was a total failure. JB didnt harden overnight and so the whole thing leaked. i tried to take it apart and wipe/scrape the soft JB off, but there was some what did harden and wouldnt come off. so i threw it out. i kept the copper plate and i'll try to sand it down to get rid of the leftover JB. i'll glue the layers next time, it was too late to go to home depot last night and get a can, so i just used JB cuz i had it.

08-15-2003, 04:46 PM	#8
Phant0m51 Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2003 Location: Utah Posts: 160	Maxim, I would really love to see the performance of that block. It might not be Cascade temperatures, but who cares? You made it and I think you did a damn good job too. Good luck!

08-15-2003, 04:56 PM	#9
hydrogen18 Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: USA Posts: 248	JB needs air to harden as far as I know, so hence the reason there was no hardening...try silicone.

08-15-2003, 05:49 PM	#10
maxim Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: VA Tech Posts: 111	thanks for being supportive, everyone. i will make another one just like this, but sand everything and put it together in stages to provide air for the whatever adhesive i'll use. hydrogen18, sillicone adhesive? how long does it take to harden?

08-15-2003, 06:00 PM	#11
Phant0m51 Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2003 Location: Utah Posts: 160	Silicone Cures, not hardens, but I think it usually takes 24 hours for it to cure... If you're going to make another, then don't worry about sealing it like that. If you ever had to take it apart, you'd be screwed. What you should do is dremel out a groove a little ways in from the edge, that way you can put a Silicone o-ring and seal it that way.

08-15-2003, 06:04 PM	#12
Phant0m51 Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2003 Location: Utah Posts: 160	Something like this: The red circle is the Groove you should dremel in, then you wouldn't have to glue it together.

08-16-2003, 02:52 PM	#14
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	No need to cut the groove with silicone. Keep on trying man!

08-18-2003, 05:25 AM	#15
montyt Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: melbourne Posts: 14	you could try rtv silicon as it dosnt need air ...and rtv stands for room temprature valcanising. it worked for mine blue is the silicon

08-18-2003, 05:54 AM	#16
hydrogen18 Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: USA Posts: 248	I say try the RTV silicone and if that doesnt work try liquid teflon sealent.

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