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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
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#1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Deep Dark Missouri Woods
Posts: 4
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I'm new here, and I'm looking for some info.
I'm in the process of retopping an old maze 3 that had a bunch of cracks starting around the barbs. I really dug the clear top, but I don't want to replace them every three months, so I am going to replace the NPT barbs with copper or brass BSP or NPS oring seal barbs. The only snag is, I can't find the durned things anywhere. I am also having a rough time finding the BSP taps. Does anyone know where I can buy these barbs and taps? I also know that I can just replace the top with aluminum or copper, but I like the lexan. Any help will be most appreciated.
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#2 |
Put up or Shut Up
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 6,506
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Why would you want to use BSP (not USA standard, that's why they are hard to find in the USA)? It will not help anything. There is just a slight difference between that and the NPT (USA standard) that was originally used. Also the O-Ring barbs will probably cause more harm than good being they will need to be tightened much tighter (which is a bad thing) to get the O-ring to seal properly. Just use standard barbs, preferably plastic, and some clear RTV silicone and gently tighten the barbs in. Go maybe a 1/4 turn past the point of finger tight and then let the RTV setup over night. I have been using plexy glass on all my blocks for 3 years and have yet to crack one.
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#3 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Deep Dark Missouri Woods
Posts: 4
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There is quite a bit of difference between BSP, and NPT. Thread pitch for one, but the big thing that I am concerned with is the fact that NPT has tapered threads, and BSP/NPS are straight thread. This is why the oring is there.
Also, the oring barbs don't need to be any more than finger tight to seal, another plus for them. I know what I want, I'm just looking for a little help finding it.
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#4 | |
Put up or Shut Up
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 6,506
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![]() Quote:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&l...=Google+Search http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&l...=Google+Search exists for a reason. also try www.mscdirect.com and www.mcmaster.com Last edited by jaydee116; 10-27-2003 at 03:05 PM. |
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#5 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Deep Dark Missouri Woods
Posts: 4
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Congratulations, you can use google.
Give me a break would ya. I said I was new, not stupid. They don't necessarily go hand in hand. I've googled until I can't google anymore, read McMaster Carr's catalog front to back, and back to front, and spent about 8 hrs rummaging around at MSC Direct's website. I came up with nothing. I came here only as a last resort, (for reasons which you have made blatantly obvious) because I couldn't find what I was looking for anywhere else. Those google searches sure do show me a bunch of entries with BSP and NPS in them. What they do not show me is anywhere that carries BSP hose barbs. Next.
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#6 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: portugal
Posts: 635
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How about making one?
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#7 |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Posts: 2,371.493,106
Posts: 4,440
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BSP barbs are made by Eldon James in CO
ask them who is your local distributor |
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#8 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: D.C.
Posts: 26
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#9 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: D.C.
Posts: 26
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The technology is within the reach of even the smallest nuclear power. |
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#10 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,014
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I'll bet the metal barbs are your problem. Going with more metal barbs can only hurt the situation more. I have never had a block crack with plastic barbs, but all of the ones with metal barbs have cracked on me at some point.
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