Heatercore pipe removal

Jury · 12-03-2003, 05:15 PM

I picked up a heater core (10"x6" approx) from the local autoparts store, but when I tried to remove the existing intake and exhaust pipes I managed to melt the brazing/soldering on the top edge of the rad.

I wasn't really thinking, just went after it with a little propane torch until the welds melted, but I also made several leaks in my rad.

After trying to re-solder it myself with no success, and about a week of constantly applying goop trying to seal the leak, I gave up and bought a new rad.

Anyone have any advice on a better way to take off the pipes? Something other than a torch to give me more localized heat? I really didnt think it would be that hard seeing as i've never really read anything specifically walking through the steps of removing them, but I could use some advice before I destroy another one.

I suppose I could try to put my fittings on the end of the existing pipes, but they are two different sizes. That means more expense(albeit a small one), and another trip to the hardware store. I would really prefer to take them off.

Thanks

Groth · 12-03-2003, 06:06 PM

Water is your friend! Fill your heater core up such that only the portion you're working on is dry. Depending on how close the water is, it will take longer to reach solder temperatures or you may need a hotter torch (MAPP will definitely do it).

A waterproof epoxy will work better than GOOP for leaks you can't solder. Make sure the area is clean and dry, and use a little suction on the barbs to pull the epoxy into the wound.

TerraMex · 12-03-2003, 06:24 PM

One remark to Groth's post.
Fill the heatercore it with water... and use a small basin (or a bucket) with water, and put it in , leaving only the part you wish to desolder dry. The water in the bucket will maintain the rest of the heatercore cooler . Just filling it with water might not be sufficient.

My cores i just cut the pipes with my dremel, and gooped a couple of barbs. Worked pretty good. It's another way to go.

Or, you can just cut them as close you can get, and then grind the rest with a power tool or some files.

mad mikee · 12-03-2003, 06:30 PM

works in about 10-30 secs or me and no leaks on 4 HCs so far....

bigben2k · 12-04-2003, 09:31 AM

I used the water trick myself.

First, I cut off the tubes with a hacksaw, then I soldered 1/2" copper fittings on them. Later, after I've bent 1/2" copper tubing to the desired shape, I'll solder them to the copper fittings.

BTW, if you still have that damaged core, and feel like donating it, I'll PayPal you the shipping. If I can fix it, I'll pass it on to someone who can use it.

Jury · 12-13-2003, 09:00 PM

Thanks for the help.

Everything worked fine the second time around. I don't know why I never thought of using water, but it worked great.

BTW Bigben, I'm still trying to fix that heater core. Might be able to use it still. Sorry

12-03-2003, 05:15 PM	#1
Jury Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Calgary, Alberta Posts: 4	Heatercore pipe removal I picked up a heater core (10"x6" approx) from the local autoparts store, but when I tried to remove the existing intake and exhaust pipes I managed to melt the brazing/soldering on the top edge of the rad. I wasn't really thinking, just went after it with a little propane torch until the welds melted, but I also made several leaks in my rad. After trying to re-solder it myself with no success, and about a week of constantly applying goop trying to seal the leak, I gave up and bought a new rad. Anyone have any advice on a better way to take off the pipes? Something other than a torch to give me more localized heat? I really didnt think it would be that hard seeing as i've never really read anything specifically walking through the steps of removing them, but I could use some advice before I destroy another one. I suppose I could try to put my fittings on the end of the existing pipes, but they are two different sizes. That means more expense(albeit a small one), and another trip to the hardware store. I would really prefer to take them off. Thanks

12-03-2003, 06:24 PM	#3
TerraMex Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Portugal, Europe Posts: 870	One remark to Groth's post. Fill the heatercore it with water... and use a small basin (or a bucket) with water, and put it in , leaving only the part you wish to desolder dry. The water in the bucket will maintain the rest of the heatercore cooler . Just filling it with water might not be sufficient. My cores i just cut the pipes with my dremel, and gooped a couple of barbs. Worked pretty good. It's another way to go. Or, you can just cut them as close you can get, and then grind the rest with a power tool or some files. __________________ "we need more cowbell."

12-03-2003, 06:30 PM	#4
mad mikee Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: US of A!!!! Posts: 146	I just use a heatgun on the pipe itself works in about 10-30 secs or me and no leaks on 4 HCs so far.... __________________ His PCV2000 DFI ULTRA D (SLI Modded just because) 4200 x2 @ ~ 10 x 260 /1.49 Vcore , G5 + PA160 + 150mm Papst@5V + Maze 4 GPU + mcp350. Temp 36-37(load-2 x D20L) 2x1GB Ballistix PC4000, x800xl 256m, 74G rap + 160G Hitachi SATA , 21" mit/nec 1920x1440 Crt + 19 Neovo F-419 1280x1024 LCD, OCZ Powerstream 600 Hers: (my beloved who lets me do all this) LianLi PCV1000, SD3700 @ 9x300, 1GB GBLA, 250+ 120 SATA, X700pro, 19" Neovo F-419 LCD, another OCZ 600

12-04-2003, 09:31 AM	#5
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	I used the water trick myself. First, I cut off the tubes with a hacksaw, then I soldered 1/2" copper fittings on them. Later, after I've bent 1/2" copper tubing to the desired shape, I'll solder them to the copper fittings. BTW, if you still have that damaged core, and feel like donating it, I'll PayPal you the shipping. If I can fix it, I'll pass it on to someone who can use it. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

12-03-2003, 06:06 PM	#2
Groth Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: MO Posts: 781	Water is your friend! Fill your heater core up such that only the portion you're working on is dry. Depending on how close the water is, it will take longer to reach solder temperatures or you may need a hotter torch (MAPP will definitely do it). A waterproof epoxy will work better than GOOP for leaks you can't solder. Make sure the area is clean and dry, and use a little suction on the barbs to pull the epoxy into the wound.

12-13-2003, 09:00 PM	#6
Jury Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Calgary, Alberta Posts: 4	Thanks for the help. Everything worked fine the second time around. I don't know why I never thought of using water, but it worked great. BTW Bigben, I'm still trying to fix that heater core. Might be able to use it still. Sorry

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)